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It seems the hudraulic oil that is supposed to fill the lines of the clutch, has leaked out, Open the master cylinder of clutch oil & see the level of fluid inside . If its empty, then first you have to locate where the leak is and repair it if possible. Filling up the master cylinder is also tricky as you have to remove any air trapped in the line by pumping the clutch and bleeding it just like one does for the brakes, Even your battery is running down so it would be a food idea to get it charged up at the battery shop/garrage. However the first priority is to the clutch..............................sodeep
Ford has special bleeding and blocking instructions for clutch slave. Check manual for proper bleeding requirements. May consider presurre bleeding of master cylinder or use master cyclinder bleeding tubes that fill the resevoir as you bleed the and remove all air in system.
pretty staright forward. lossen the one line going to the master cylinder. go undeneth the dash and take the cotter pin out of the pin that goes throgh the clutch pedal with the cotter pin out take out the pin and then take the 2 bolts that hold the master cylinder to the firewall and out it comes. replace in reverse order.
let me know if this works for you and if you need any more help.
With a clutch cable linkage there is always adjustment in the cable length to compensate for cable stretch.
With hydraulic clutch linkage, there is less need for adjustment because there is nothing that is supposed to change. However, the rod connecting the pedal to the clutch master is still almost always adjustable. What you try to do is optimize the pedal free play to about a half inch. You don't want to get rid of all the free play, or else the clutch master may retain pressure and cause slippage. But you don't want too much free play, or else the clutch may still grab enough to cause grinding. There is usually a locknut and threaded shaft that turns to change length.
But if the hydraulic fluid is dirty or leaking from either slave or master, rebuild them both, look for pits, put in new seals, and bleed the old fluid and air out of the line, before adjusting.
Remove the fluid line, then go inside cab at clutch pedal remove linkage that connects master and clutch pedal. Remove bolts that hold it in place and remove unit. reinstall in reverse order and bleed system at clutch slave by opening bleeder then pushing clutch pedal down and holding until bleeder is closed. repeat until solid fluid comes out, then with bleeder closed pump clutch pedal three times and open bleeder to relieve any left over air.
There is a pin that connects the clutch pedal to the clucth master cylinder. It sounds like this pin fell out. It is just a matter of lining up the hole in the master cylinder with the connector off of the clutch pedal. Push the pin in and install a new cotter pin to secure.
1.From inside the cab, carefully pry the clutch master cylinder pushrod and retainer bushing from the pedal cross-shaft lever pin.
2. Disconnect and remove the interlock switch.
3. Remove as much fluid from reservoir as possible and place shop rags under the master cylinder to catch leaking fluid.
4. Disconnect hydraulic line from the master cylinder and plug lines and outlets to avoid contamination and excessive fluid loss.
5. Remove the two nuts retaining the clutch master cylinder.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal exept after installation, bled the system.
Buy a seal kit from autozoe, wil cost you around 17 dollars. Remove clutch aster cylinder by firstly undoing the resevoir clamp and remove the reservoir to give you access to the hard hydraulic line and detach the line. Undo the two bolts holding the master cylinder to the firewall and then go inside the car and pull the cotter pin holding the end of the mastrecylinder plunger to the pedal (watch the washers and remember how they go back on). Remove the unit, and strip it down to replace the plunger and releif valve you get from the kit. Good Luck.