Question about 1993 Suzuki Swift

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Very uneven running

Suz swift 93, 3 cyl. 960c.c.
car will start,revs up then drop revs up then drop etc etc-have tried disconnecting choke sensor(green connector 2 wire ) on side of throttle body but same problem at lower revs -open throttle and little response,suspect it is either a damaged or failed sensor-which one i dont know- or possibly fuel delivery problem.

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Here are a few things to check check idle speed control , TPS- throttle position sensor and also very important check for vacuum leak on intake any broken hoses or intake itself gasket leaking Very possible for this problem. A simple test is when engine is running up and down use an intake cleaner (in compressed can) and spray around intake manifold if there is a vacuum leak the engine will surge up . This could man intake gasket or vacuum leak. Good luck and thanks for using FIX YA.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009


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How do i replace the vaccum line for the light and choke. model 1993

which swift?
the canada one?

you have a choke and carb,. NOT IN USA.
so why not say country, we cant help you unless you state
the engine size and country.
what is a light vacuum line.?
chock is easy.
but light?

all vacuum lines, un plug them , put new back in.
they push on and off. no clamps no treads;

93 swift, has these engines. and many carbs used world wide
in fact fueling is regulate by LAWS in most countries.

G13 A or B?
G16A or B?
lots of engines.
i have vacuum maps (real suzuki) but the first question
in the database is WHAT COUNTRY? or market.

Aug 08, 2014 | 1993 Suzuki Swift

1 Answer

Automatic choke problems

check the charging capacity of your alternator.

Mar 10, 2014 | Mitsubishi Pickup Cars & Trucks

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My Suzuki swift won't go into 5th gear

manual trans?
no year, so my guess it a very old swift, with a 5 speed MT box.?
well are you parked, or not.
are you moving or not
is the engine running?
and do all gears work moving , ? or not.?

there are 3 fails paths on all M/T
1: clutch
2: shifters do fail easy on suz, cars.
3: tranny
we can diagnose any, just give full symptoms

Jan 19, 2014 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need a users manual for my Suzuki Swift Cirrus on an X plate

no year stated, but old cars have vast problems.
most are ignored by prev. owners.
here is your manual. cheap. and online.
you can buy a real suz swift FSM on ebay , at any time, dirt cheap.
yes, it had a cat and need one.
on old cars its best to.
1: make sure the brakes are A+ top shape, have and ASE mech test it.
2: make sure there are no gas leaks, ASE mechanic.
3: replace all fluids, and do the 60,000 mile tuneup in the FSM or op. guide.
4: then test the system. runs , shifts,etc.
is the CEL lamp glowing key on, it must
and does it go off , after engine starts and stay off running?
that is the global view.

Feb 11, 2013 | Suzuki Swift Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1991 Suzuki Swift GTi very low idle and stalling

Oxigen sensor. Check accelerator pot also, and fuel pump.

Jan 13, 2013 | 1991 Suzuki Swift

1 Answer

I have a 1994 manual 4 door camry. it's running

look for vacuum leaks under the hood, or disconnected sensors, etc.

Do you have any engine codes on this vehicle?

Is it a 4 cyl. or 6 cyl. Toyota Camry?
What submodel (like LX, etc.)

Jul 13, 2010 | 1994 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

I have a 93 Beretta 4 cyl. When I press the aceleratior to give it gas to go it stumbles and then hesitates as the car goes faster then chokes out and dies. Once started back up it will drive several miles...

can be a few --first check fuel pressure --fuel filter,fuel pump,clean carb /vacuum lines check for cracked or disconnected line/egr valve possible carbon build up remove clean with carb cleaner/cat converter clogging when running feel exhaust if restricted possible clogging of converter

Apr 26, 2010 | 1993 Chevrolet Beretta

2 Answers

My 2002 alero has 65,000 miles and ran great until I was in an accident a few days ago. I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. The check engine light came on and the low track light too. After a few...

Sounds like the Crankshaft sensor is damaged and needs to be replaced.
The Camshaft position sensor works along with the Crankshaft position sensor.
Determining the timing and injectors’ pulse, to deliver fuel to the cylinders.
The Camshaft position sensor is a hall sensor, which it triggered by a magnet in the Camshaft.

On 4 cyl(2.4) models the Camshaft position sensor is located to the left side of the timing cover.
On the V6(3.1 & 3.4) it’s located at the front of the engine block (passenger side), below the power steering pump.
Check the terminals for breaks and looseness, repair if needed.

Here is the plug indentification picture.
The wires are different for the 4cyl and V6, Please note below.
Though the plugs are the same three wire connectors.

Plug is as listed : 1 - Camshaft position sensor signal on 4 cyl,
12 volt supply on the V6
2 – Sensor ground 4 cylinder,
Camshaft position sensor signal on the V6
3 – 12 volt supply on the 4 cylinder,
sensor ground on the V6

First check for voltage and ground circuits from the PCM.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the Camshaft sensor and connect the positive lead (on the wiring harness) of the voltmeter to the red wire(#3) on the 4 cyl and the red/white wire on the V6(#1).

Connect the negative to the pink/black wire on the 4 cyl(#2), or black on the V6(#3).
Turn the key on, the voltmeter should read 12 volts, if not check the wiring to the PCM.
If the circuits are good, have the PCM checked out by a Dealer or other properly trained shop.

To check the operations;
Reconnect the Camshaft position sensor, using a probe to back probe the brown/white wire terminal of the camshaft PS. Plug locations on4 cyl (#1) and theV6(#2)
Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the probe and the negative to a good engine ground.
Turn the key on, the voltmeter should read approx 10 volts.

*Rotating the engine by hand with a breaker bar attached to the crank pulley. Watching the voltmeter, the voltage should remain a steady 10volts then quickly drop to zero and back to 10vlts as the magnet passes the sensor.
If the tests results are incorrect then replace the camshaft position sensor.

* Rotating the engine slowly, and at least two full revolutions of the engine for accurate results.

Camshaft sensor Replacement

On the 4 cylinder
- Disconnect the electrical connector
- Remove the camshaft position sensor-mounting bolt and pull the sensor out of the camshaft cover.
- Replace the “O” ring and lightly lubricate it with clean engine oil.
- Install in the reverse of those procedures.

On V6
- Remover the drive belt.
- Remove the power steering unit but don’t disconnect the hoses, just lay it aside.
- Disconnect the electrical connector from the harness; paying attention to the route the wires are in.
- Remove the camshaft ps mounting bolt and pull the sensor out of the block.
- Install in reverse procedure.

If the sensor flange breaks off and you cant remove the CPS, try screwing a heavy screw into the top of the sensor and pulling it out with plyers/vise-grips.

Good luck and thank you for using Fixya

Mar 10, 2010 | 2002 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

03 renault scenic wont start when cold unless reved can cut out but ok on restart

hi if on engine starting and warmed you have no problems and no warning/malfunction light showing ? then i would suspect that trouble points to the engine coolant temperature sensor it tells the ecu to provide excess/choke to simplify? fuel as engine is cold so in simple theory you are trying to start with no choke as it was on old carburettor engines if you are old enough to remember ?? (joke) it was much simpler in those days however check the sensor and its plug is clean/secure and wires are ok ? when sensor works your engine fires up and runs withslight increase revs till warmed then settles to idle revsas specified in h/book this sensor is not the temp sensor that works the temp indicator guage it is a seperate sensor and larger screwed into either cyl head or block on the side hope this helps good luck

Dec 03, 2009 | 2000 Renault 181

2 Answers

I have 2 x swift GTi's, with high rev problems!!

Well, depending on your market of course, I'd still be fairly sure you do have a choke! It is located on the rear of the intake air plenumn chamber and has 2 small coolant hoses that come up from underneath - one comes from the thermostat housing area, and the other goes to the water pump area. Disconnect these and make sure you can blow easily through the choke unit. Like most Suzuki thermo-wax choke elements, they need hot water to contract, and in so doing, reduce the amount of extra air let into the engine. Unfortunately, it sounds like you may have adjusted the throttle stopper screw (it may have had a tamper-proof cover on it). If you have, the throttle plate-to-barrel clearance should be set back to as close as what your other car is by measuring the clearance with feeler gages. Let me know how you get on. I've got a 1991 version of the same and I'm in Australia.

Oct 07, 2009 | 1994 Suzuki Swift

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