The car just died. I found #4 spark plug wire off and grounding on the exhaust manifold. I put it back on and there is no spark at any of the plugs. I have power in and out of the coil and I replaced the igniter. What should I try next?
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Re: 94 toyota tercel with no spark
Does it got a distribiter or does is it have a coil pack.I'm thinking an distribiter with 4 spark plug tirminals,I would look into the Ignition Control Module if it has one.I looked at a parts listing for the car and it shows it has one but looked at a Typical Ignition System Schematic and it doesn't show the igniton control module in there.But i would think it is needed to control the spark.I would look into it and see if there is one,if there is i would test it that would be my guess of what's causing no spark.I got a pic of the ignition control module and theTypical Ignition System Schematic for you.
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Take out the spark plug, place wire back on plug. Hold wire/plug by wire's boot, so firing end of plug is close to (1/4" away from) a ground like the engine block, exhaust manifold, etc.
Have some one turn the key so engine turns over.
If you have good spark you will have a bright blue spark from plug to exhaust manifold. you better use well insulated pliars to hold plug or a piece of wood to hold it to a ground to see if it sparks. good-day !
Sounds like the wire was touching the exhaust manifold and was melted by the heat. There is usually a plastic thing that you clamp the wires into that keeps them from touching the exhaust manifold.
If theres not one of those things on your car, then use a zip tie or a piece of wire to tie the spark plug wire away from the exhaust manifold onto something above the wire on the cylinder head, throttle cable or something like that.
It sounds like you may just have a spark plug wire arcing to the ground somewhere.Make sure you check all your spark plug boots and wires.You can also put the truck in a dark shop with no lights on then start it up and see if you can see any arcs going to the exhaust.
Check for the following: 1-Emissions system not fuctioning properly,2-Fault in the fuel or electrical system,3-faulty ignition system(craked spark plugs insulation or faulty plug wires)4-vacum leak at the trotlle body,intake manifold or vacum hoses,5- valve sticking,6-crossed plugs wires,7-valve timing incorrect. Hope this info helps. sammyc47.
Did you mean coil the 1994 3.1 did not use a distributor , sounds like a bad coil pack and cylinders #3 and #6 do use the same coil. I would also check 3 and 6 plug wires this system is a waste spark design meaning when # 3 coil fires it is supposed to go through #3 plug wire , through #3 plug ( ground) through the engine block through the #6 plug then through the #6 wire then back to the coil, Then when #6 fires it works the opposite way, so in theory you could have one bad wire affecting 2 cylinders .....
I also have an '89 Wrangler with a 4.2 liter inline six. I'm afraid that the spark plugs aren't on the same side as the manifolds. Mine is being a pain in the *** for me. The intake is lining up fine but the exhaust is off by about 1/4 of an inch in the way of a bolt. Was hoping for some solutions, left disappointed.
Remove distributor to spark plug wires (12286) using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
If equipped with secondary air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube (9B480).
Remove attaching bolts and right exhaust manifold (9430).
Inspect joint faces for signs fo exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make exhaust manifold unfit for use
1. Remove oil level indicator tube (6754).
Remove spark plug heat shield.
Remove distributor to spark plug wires using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Disconnect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube (9D477). If equipped with air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube.
Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
Remove attaching bolts and exhaust manifold (9431).
Inspect joint faces for signs of exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make the exhaust manifold unfit for use.
Clean mating surfaces of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and cylinder head (6049). Clean mounting flange of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and inlet pipe(s). Clean mounting surface for air injection tube or right exhaust manifold. Apply light film of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold.
Position right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold on cylinder head. Install attaching bolts and washers, starting at fourth bolt hole from front of each right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Tighten bolts to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft), working from center right to both ends.
Position inlet pipes to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Install attaching nuts and tighten to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft).
Position the secondary air injection check valve tube and the secondary air injection tube gasket (9C435) at rear of right-hand exhaust manifold. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 19-25 Nm (14-18 lb-ft).
Attach the secondary air injection manifold tube (9B449) to left-hand exhaust manifold fitting (located under EGR tube). Tighten nut to 30-40 Nm (22-30 lb-ft).
Attach the secondary air injection check valve tube to rear of right-hand cylinder head. Tighten bolts to 75-85 Nm (56-62 lb-ft).
Connect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 53-72 Nm (39-53 lb-ft).
Install spark plug heat shield and distributor to spark plug wires.
Install oil level indicator tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 13-24 Nm (10-18 lb-ft).
Replacing the manifold is pretty straight-foreward. Remove the bolts holding the y-pipe on that side, remove the spark plug wires, and take the bolts out that hold the manifold on. Remove the old exhaust manifold gasket, scrape any remainders off, put the bolts through the manifold, put the gasket on the bolts(keeps it in place so you're not fishing it around to get it in the right spot) and put the bolts in finger tight only. Once you have all of them in, use a torque wrench to tighten them to 132 inch/lbs. Once they are all there, you then tighten them all to 22 ft/lbs. If you hit any of your spark plugs taking it off, you may want to go ahead and replace them now. Put the spark plug wires back on, and hook up the y-pipe again.