Question about 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
MY 1993 CUTLASS SUPREME.. STARTED CHUGGING AND STALLING LIKE IT WAS OUT OF GAS.I MADE IT TO THE GAS STATION AND PUT GAS,BUT NOW IT DOESN'T WANT TO START.IT TURNS OVER BUT WILL NOT STAY RUNNING.IT'S ACTING LIKE IT'S OUT OF GAS.WHAT SHOULD I DO?
Most likely is the fuel pump which is located in the gas tank.or a shorted injector could be the problem these cars are worth putting a few $ in.please find trusting mechanic thanks
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
I am a ex-mechanic and have a simmilar problem. About two months ago my car drove 7 miles to my work in the cool April morning just fine, then 8 hours later drove home in the mild evening without problems. When I went to start it back up to leave after it sat for 2 hours, the 1991 cutlass stalled out in the drive way and would not start back up, cranked like hell and almost started up long enough to get out of the drive.
After returning back home with my wife's van, the cooled down cutlass started up just fine so I could not check the fuel pressure or spark because it would have check out fine, damn intermitents. Now that it is June and 90-95 degrees out today the P.O.S would not maker-home and stalled dead after 3 miles. I was in first place in the left turn lane pissing off the 20 people behind me.
Anyway I checked the spark when it would not start, and all the front plugs had spark through the tester, fuel pressure was 42psi, (3.1L spec is 40.5-47spi). The pump pressure was a little on the low side but since it does not have the termal cycles like the coils and module, I ruled out any fuel prob and assumed the cat and air filter had no problems since I dont have a back pressure gauge.
Eventually it started back up and I drove it off the shoulder to a parking lot for further diagnosis and possible repair. The engine continued to run for almost 10 minutes long enough to scan the crank, TPS, IAC sensor, O2 and etc until I shut it off. Minutes later it would not start up.
I pulled the coils off planning to change the ingnition module. I noticed one coil case was cracked and the others had some oil one them, but not significant. Also there was a resistance specs for the coils on the ign module installation instructions, two of the coils failed the primary windings ohm spec and the third was less than 10% above the minimum. Also I noticed that the metal plate behind the module mounted to the engine was still very very hot hours after it last ran. With these temps the old electronic components must have went through hell for the last, oh at least 12 yerars since I owned her. I hope the module and coils fixes the problem.
Auto zone has the ign module, 3 coils, triggering crank shaft sensor and plug wires all for $200. Not hard to do all your self if you have a quarter drive ratchet, 5.5 mm socket for the module and coils and probably a 10mm socket for the crank sensor.
If anyone has any info I skipped or guessed on, just update below.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
By now you probably have it fixed but have you had the starter module checked? I had one installed and it runs fine now. However, the dealership I have taken it to for most work, tried to charge me $330.00 for the module alone and I bought it for $121.00 including tax at a parts store. The dealership agreed to install this but the labor cost about $500.00.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
A few things that you NEED to check:
Are you getting a spark to the plugs?
if you are, then there is one problem too the side. If you aren't, your coil is probaqbly bad, and needs replacing.
If your are getting a spark to the plugs, the next thing you can check and pray it is....your fuel filter could be plugged and needs to be replaced.
The next item to check is your fuel pump.
Gooid luck, I hope ths helps you some.
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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