Question about 1997 GMC Suburban
My 1997 Suburban with a 5.7 began to lose power so I checked the fuel filter which was clogged so I replaced. While at the parts store they had sale on plugs so I figured at 155000 I should and did replace. I also ran some seafoam through as well. The next day the truck perfect. I pulled a 20 ft enclosed trailer at 75 mph no prblem....for about 150 miles. All of the sudden it was like you threw out an anchor. I lost almost all my power adn the check engine light came on. It would run normal power up to about 1/8 - 1/4 throttle but after that it would just bog down and make popping sounds. I pulled over checked my fuel filter and fuel cap...both fine. I unhooked my battery for 5 mins and hooked back up...PROBLEM SOLVED!!! I made it another 50 miles until it happened again. Went through this the entire 400 mile round trip and everytime I unhooked the battery it would run normal and the check engine light would go off. Since then I have replaced the O2 sensors, had the catalytic converters and muffler checked. I cleaned the EGR and mass airflow sensors (with proper cleaners). Nothing changed. I forgot to mention that after I unhook and reconnect battery it would run 150 times better however not perfect. It would hesitate when first accellerating from stop and would not have full power if you put the accellerator pedal to the floor. Anyway, I swapped the mass airflow sensor from my dads 98 Chevy to see if that was a problem. His truck ran very poorly so he purchased a new one which fixed the problem which leads me to believe mine was bad. With his MAF on my truck it ran really well...I still had a hesitation, but this was the first time since this all started that I was able to achieve full power....for a few days till it went back to its normal behavior. By the way when the check engine light comes on the codes that show up are "bank 1 and bank 2 too lean". I have perfect fuel pressure and have replaced the cap and rotor as well. Any ideas?
Lots of times the idle air control valve gets stuck on these engines. You can try cleaning it. Remove the air intake hose from the throttle body. Start the engine and spray throttle plate cleaner through the hole in the bottom on the throttle body. This will run the cleaner through the idle air control valve. make sure to keep the RPM's at about 2000 to 2500 throughout this procedure. You may need to install a new idle air control valve if it continues to happen.
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
I would suggest a few things ... first and the most important... check that you have the wires in the proper order on the distributer. next have the timing checked.
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
SOURCE: knocking noise in the engine.
Knocking Noise Is NOT a Good or Normal thing I will Not try and Diagnose it But I STRONGLY Suggest That You Stop By A Couple Service Shops For a EAR ON Check for this KNOCK and
I say A Couple Shops Meaning 3-4 So as to get The right Diagnosis
Posted on Jan 23, 2009
I just went through this with a ford at the shop we threw parts at this car for days. It turned out to be the PCM. You can have all the best fuel pressures plugs, and MAF input but if the computer isn't reading it properly it can't work properly. The batterybeing disconnected is resetting the PCM taking it out of limp mode thats why it runs ok for short bursts. Its probably over-heating.
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
Have you replaced the fuel filter lately? It should be replaced every 10,000 miles or so. Located drivers side on frame half way back. Good Luck!
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 18, 2013 | 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Aug 05, 2011 | 1997 GMC Suburban
Jul 15, 2010 | 2003 Chevrolet Suburban 1500
Jan 24, 2010 | 1997 Ford Escort
Dec 29, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Blazer
May 30, 2009 | 1998 GMC Suburban
Feb 21, 2009 | 1997 Mercedes-Benz C-Class
Feb 01, 2009 | 1995 GMC Sonoma
Jan 30, 2009 | 1984 Nissan Pickup
1,123 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: