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Re: back hatch will not open
Look where the handle is take the screw out of there little pop out / then you should be able to pull of the top part of the trim first then the lower part and there is the mechanical part of it/ Please rate my response thank you very much
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had this problem myself.... you gotta go in through the back and take the plastic/vinal cover off the rear door and look for the lock from the inside..... unlock it .... open the door and then you can repair and lube the mechanism while standing outside like a human being. its not very hard to do.. just take your time and don't force anything.
My back hatch would not open but it appears the lock was sticking and the return spring to the handle is broken. We used the key to unlock the back door and then door opened. Then husband sprayed WD 40 in all the lock holes. Now once we open the door we have to push the handle back down as return spring is still missing but the door opens :) . My van is a 2002 Ford Windstar.
I had the same problem with my 2001 Blazer. Just remove the panel by the screws located on the side of the tailgate, the problem was a bad actuator which pulls the lever to open the glass hatch. Once you take off the panel, remove the metal shield on the tailgate and the actuator will be mounted on the back of it.
There are several ways to open the hatch on blazers and jimmys. You can try to release by inserting a small screwdriver and pushing left using the entry hole in the rear hatch deck just below the plastic trim in the center. This works ok unless the latch is out of alignment. The quicker way to release the window lock is to pull the center of the plastic trim (where it rises) toward the inside of the car and break the plastic trim attachment. Remember first to remove the hatch handle.By pulling away from the window, you can then insert a finger between the two walls of the lock assembly and push down. The window will open immediately. Ignore the broken trim attachment as there is plenty of support for the top of the door trim piece. Unbolt the 9/32 panel screws and the two phillips head side screws and the panel will come off. Careful of the rods clipped to the panel. They come off easily as does the hatch door activator. Rather than have to buy an actuator because the blue piece of plastic broke, replacements are available at online auto supply stores. Remember to make sure that the lever of the actuator hits the window release mechanism squarly. A little bending with pliers will align these two pieces so they strike evenly.
I had the same trouble and found that I had to disconnect the glass hatch switch. It is probably defective like mine. I had to release the door by going from the inside and opening a little plastic door and open the whole hatch by using the emergency lever. Then I had to unscrew the plastic panel near the glass hatch and pry it apart just enough to disconnect the glass hatch switch. It is just a small connector that pulls apart. There are two connectors. One for the back wiper and then the glass hatch so make sure you disconnect the right one. This allows me to use the whole door but the glass hatch becomes useless unless you get a new switch.
They use this tiny blue PLASTIC (pain-in-the-***) arm in the mechanism that unlatches the hatch that's probably broken that is techincally called a Window Actuator Rod Retainer. I had this happen to me last year -- you have to take apart the gate from the inside (you'll probably break a few of the plastic secure holds, I think there were about 16 holding the plastic cover over the gate). It takes a while, but the part is cheap and very easy to replace. I ordered mine off http://www.rockauto.com/ for $3.96 and it comes with two (Hmm, must be expecting it to break again).
2000 ford explorer back hatch handle loose door locked
The linkage on the back hatch came unfastened and the handle was loose. Ford uses plastic fastener clips over perfectly good threads to hold this together. The outdoor plastic handle is only conected to the car with two aluminum ribets. One was already missing on mine. But if you just want to open the door, you can rip the handle off and pull it out. hopefully you won't crack the plastic. You can see the linkage screw hanging as you look up through the left hole. Grab it with a plyers and apply a steady force down. This will open the hatch. I just rigged up a different handle and put a nut on the treads to hold it together. This can all be done without tearing appart the interier and may only take 20 minutes. I used a rope and handle from the garage opener, a medium size washer and a nut. First make a small loop, with a small hole to slide over the linkage screw, then the washer, then the nut. Slide the other end of rope through the handle, move the handle very close to the vehicle and tie the not close. Trim the rope and wala ... the hatch works. Or you can pay $300.00+ to have it fixed with the clip.
I had the same problem. A weather mat got stuck when the hatch closed. After freeing the mat, the hatch would not open. The lock button would go up and down, but the hatch stayed locked.
What happened was the the plastic holder for the metal arm that connected the lock button to the mechanism broke.
There are no screws holding the inside panel, just metal tab clips.
First, I took off the inside close handle--2 bolts. Then I had to work my way from the center tail light, unscrewing it and popping off the left and right trim pieces--metal tab clips. These were covering the back panel. Now the hard part was getting the back panel off. It does pop off and I found it very hard to get something behind the edges.
The plastic holder that held the metal connector in place had broke. I used two plastic pull ties to hold the connector in it's place. Reversed the procedure and it works again.
You need to climb in the back and remove the plastic panel from the hatch to access the lock. There may be a small access door over the locking mechanism to help you avoid removing the whole thing. Could be dirty and sticky and fixable with a bit of graphite lube.