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Depends on many factors. 1 Are you doing the labor yourself? 2 Have the bad pads damaged the rotors? 3 Is the axle leaking grease? 4 Is the caliper leaking? 5 Are the calipers stuck? 6 What quality level pads do you want? 7 Are you using the dealer, a good shop, or some "Big Box" store?
What is the question? You never changed pads or done brake work/service? Something different from some other vehicle you worked on? You Tube Video may have your vehicle & you can watch what your asking You never install new pads on old rotors without turning them
Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress the brake pedal past its first inch of travel and hold it in this position. This will isolate the master cylinder from the hydraulic brake system and will not allow brake fluid to drain out of the reservoir while the brake lines are open.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cableRear wheelsBanjo bolt retaining the brake hose to the caliper. Be sure to plug the end of the brake hose or cover it with a plastic bag to prevent contamination from entering the hydraulic system.Caliper guide pin boltsCaliper assembly from the brake adapter by rotating the bottom of the caliper away from the rotor, then lift the caliper with the pads away from the adapter abutmentBrake pads by pushing (outboard) or pulling (inboard) from the caliper fingers and piston
Install or connect the following:
The outboard pads are side oriented, make sure the spring clip is installed so it is positioned downwards when the caliper is installed.
Inboard pad clip against the piston cavity and press the pad until the clip is seated making sure the pad backing plate is flush against the piston
Outboard pad making sure the locating pins are positioned against the ramps. Slide the pad onto the caliper and ensure the locating pins are squarely seated into the holes on the caliper and the pad is flush against the caliper fingers.
Make sure the abutment shims are in place on both slide abutments.
Retract the caliper guide pins to clear the caliper adapter bosses.
Brake caliper. Staring with the upper end, position the caliper and shoes over the rotor and align the outboard pad upper edge with the caliper slide abutment. Rotate the lower end of the caliper into positionCaliper guide pin bolts and tighten to 200 inch lbs. (23 Nm)Banjo bolt with new washers on each side of the hose fitting and tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm)WheelsNegative battery cable
Is the car 4 wheel disc brakes, or just disc brakes in front? Either way, the procedure is the same. Do one wheel at a time. Take the wheel off, then take the brake caliper off. There should be only 2 bolt holding it on. Pull the brake pads out of the caliper. Then take a c clamp and compress the piston on the back side of the caliper. Then put the new pads in and slip the whole thing over the rotor and put the bolts back in. Do this for all the other wheels, then BLEED THE BRAKES. This is the most important step. You need to get someone to help you with this. Have them pump the brakes up until they get stiff. With their foot still on the brake, loosen the relief screw until clean fluid comes out with no air bubbles or pockets. Then immediately close the screw back down. Do this for each wheel. The relief screw is just a small screw on the caliper, just look around for it, you'll find it.
If your car has antilock brakes, changing the pads is a bit different
than what most people are used to. With a normal (non-ABS) car, you just
unbolt the caliper, press apart the old pads to retract the piston,
the pads. This procedure forces much of the brake fluid out of the
caliper and back into the master cylinder. The fluid is put back once
you step on the brakes.
With an ABS car, you CAN'T force the fluid back;
if you do you'll damage the ABS valve body (£800). Instead, you must
open the caliper bleed screw and drain the excess fluid out of the
caliper while you press the piston back into the bore. This is very
important! If you force the dirty, water-contaminated fluid back through
the relatively fragile valve body, you'll ruin it.
you know that you are supposed to replace all of the brake
fluid in an ABS car once each year? That's different from older-style
The problem might have already been there,the steel wheels are making it noticeable,because they don`t cool down as quick.Most likely is the calipers sticking,or you have a set of high dollar brake pads on the vehicle,and they are heating the rotors up.The high dollar pads are a very hard composite pad witch produce a lot of friction,and heat as a sort of side affect.
of course this is normal brake last around 12000 if you a like on the brakes some people are always on the brakes and go through brake pads every 2 to 3 month lol,, the front are at least 85% of the cars braking power so thats why the rear brakes last a lot longer, if you buy the parts yourself they are pritty easy to fit. if you wont me to give full instruction on how to change these I will do this would save you alot of money