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Normally when the brake pedal goes almos to the floor it is an indication of low brake fluid. Low brake fluid is an indication that front and/or rear brakes are wearing. As the brake pads wear down more brake fluid will be required in the wheel cylinders or calipers. Hint, the front brakes usually wear much faster than the rear due to the fact that the fronts due a much greater braking function that the rear. Check the front pads. Don't let them get down to the metal scraping metal stage before you change them out. This causes unnessary damage to the rotors. Look at your master cylinder on the firewall under the hood in front of the steering wheel. If the fluid level is belowhte "max" mark add fluid. Low fliud should also show as a red "brake" light on your dash, but not always.
no they are inverted flare fittings no seals check all lines and calipers/wheel cylinders if all are dry remove the vacuum hose from the booster if there is brake fluid in the hose the master cylinder is bad
I WOULD GO BACK AND REBLEED BRAKES STARTING FROM THE BACK TO THE FRONT SEE IF THIS HELPS PUMP BRAKE PEDEL SLOWLY THREE TIME HOLD TO FLOOR AND OPEN VAVLE MAKE SHERE NO AIR COMING OUT BEST WAY TO TELL IS GET CLEAR BOTTLE AND BUT BRAKE FLUID IN IT GET A HOSE THAT FITS ON THE FITTING AND PUT HOSE IN THE BOTTLE AND WHEN YOU OPEN BLEEDER YOU CAN SEE THE AIR COME OUT EASER
1. Jack up and support car with hydraulic floor jack and jack stands
2. Remove desired wheel(s)
3. Remove the two 17mm caliper botls
4. Remove the caliper and support with a coat hanger throught the bolt hole
5. Replace the brake pads (if needed) I recommend Honda
6. Remove the top off of the master brake cylinder that is attached to the brake booster under the hood.
7. Use an appropriate tool to reset the caliper cylinder to the recessed position. (C-clamp can work too)
8. Check to see that you have not spilled any brake fluid out of the top of the master cylinder (wipe any fluid up immediatley (especially if on paint)
9. Using a impact philips driver remove the two set screws for the rotor
10. Have rotor machined or replace with a new one (recommend Honda)
11. Clean new rotors with brakecleaner (whether new or machined)
12. Reinstall rotors and new set screws (be sure to use impact driver to set them)
13. Reinstall newly loaded calipers (with new pads)
14. Reinstall two bolts on the rear
15. Remove any supports from within the wheel-well (coat hangers/wires) that were used to support caliper
16. Reistall wheel and torque bolts to 80 ftlbs.
17. Lower the vehicle slowly after removing jack stands from the rocker panel.
18. Replace the cap on the master cylinder reservoir.
19. Test at slow speeds and take it easy for a while.
bleed the brake again. if the pedal goes to the floor with little resistance, then the master cylinder is your problem.
the shim is to depress the noise when you applied the brake. you can skip that, if the brake works without it.
pump the pedal until it goes hard this is common when you push it back all the way just needs a few pumps to get it to extend back to the pads making contact with the rotor, is there any fluid leaking anywhere? is there brake fluid in reservoir?