Question about 1999 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight

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Information on brake lines from master cylinder

Each 6mm brake line (2) from the master cylinder have what looks like a flex line piece about 2 inches long located on them, they are factory fitted pieces crimped on the line at the firewall. Plus the lines have an unusual bend, like a soft drink holder or U bend in them prior to this flex line. I have to replace the entire line system due to erosion and not sure what the significance is if any. Thanks in advance, Rick

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  • laggenric Jan 31, 2009

    Great! Thank you. I guess I wasn't real clear on the flex line. But your answer may have answered that part of the question also. The 2 inch pieces I mentioned actually bend like a rubber hose with steel braiding around them, and they are crimped between the actual rigid line. But it sounds like an additional feature for vibration issues. Thanks again for the good and a quick answer. Rick

  • laggenric Jan 31, 2009

    Great!!! Thanks to both of you. I am mechanical by nature, and car/bike repair history, and I understand all of what you've said.I am somewhat concerned what's going to happen when bleeding the master and the anti lock unit with an extensive repair like this, and know it is going to take time and patience, but I will be back if need be for any tricks to help. Rick

  • laggenric Feb 10, 2009

    Thanks for your help on this guys. The project is done and turned out very well. Putting all new line on was interesting with all the twists and bends, and although not factory, I got them were they needed to go and secured in the existing mounts. Some have zip strips in places also. I gave up on the flaring tool you can buy for $30 to $100 at the local auto parts places, and bought a more professional model on line that is hydraulic. After research found one at a great price, although expensive, and got a perfect bubble flare every time, quick and simple also. Lucked out and have a Bosch 5 ABS on the car so I was able to bleed the system normally. Might have anyone else with flaring problems look at the Mastercool flaring tool, it saved me time and aggravation and I found mine under $300.00.


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You Do NOT have to Fallow This To the "T" EXactly as long as it fits in space it needs to and the "FLAIR" at Tubes Ends are Exactly the same thred size ans Line Nut Length as what you take out.

Also the ones you see with Coil look, it is NOT Needed they sre more Cosmetics than anything else, To Me they Play a Large Role in helping the Lines to DETERIORATE Much easter as they hold Moisture, Bleeding the System is the Kicker if you know how to this is a good thing. After Replacing the Line this is when the Bleeding comec into Play. feel FREE to CONTACT ME through FixYa Or Email me with Any Questions with my Nickname Ialso Have GOOD RESORCES HERE if you feel as though this helped you Please RATE as you feel fit. thank you &have a good weekend

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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Manufacturers have been putting that type line covering on for years. Though it does offer some scuff protection for the line, personally I believe that it also holds salt and other debris, making lines somewhat more prone to rust and corrosion. I would not concern myself with that feature or lack of lit in a replacement line. The extra bend in the line is another story... It is a good idea to put some sort of extra bend in the line. The bend serves to deaden vibration and resulting stress fractures which can form right at the fittings.Be careful when bending lines not to crimp them in any way. Keep in mind when routing lines that it is most important to support them to avoid vibration and keep them away from linkage and suspension components which move during normal driving. I generally slip a piece of rubber hose around any point where the line crosses any "edge" that could chafe through the line and cause failure.
good luck

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • Richard Scordino Jan 31, 2009

    OOps! wasn't aware that they are using rubber line on those! if for any reason you need to retain them, you can install compression unions on both ends (not really a great way of doing brake systems though). When forced to do this, I usually install the nut and ferrule on the line, then put a very slight and I mean very slight, flair on the line end (usually use a small drift pin for this as you don't really want a flair, but just a slight enlargement of the tube end) this serves to help preventing line from pulling apart under pressure loading)


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a key might be the brake pedal.
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The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
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WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
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  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
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    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
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Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder


Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid


Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

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