Question about 1997 Mitsubishi 3000GT

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Loss of power til 4500rpm even worse when cold 1996 shogun 3.0 v6

Feels like ignition retarded..
Tried airflow sensor and throttle cable also checked exhaust.

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My bet is on bad plugs or bad wires, how old are they? if more than 50k on iridiums, or 15-20k on coppers. Replace them with NGKs... autozone will try to tell you that other brands are the same, but they are NOT.

The front three are easy to get to, if you want to verify if this is your problem, pull one of the front three plugs, you should be able to tell their condition by looking, and if you replace the front three, you may even see a small increase in power... if you do, then you will know you need to do the rears... they are a bit harder.

If you go to a mechanic, they will want 300+ to change your plugs because the rears are so much more difficult because you have to take off the upper plenum to do it...

It is actually something that is pretty easy for a shade-tree mechanic to do, just be very careful once you pull off the plenum to NOT drop anything down into your cylinders... ESPECIALLY THE WASHERS FROM THE NUTS ON THE ENDS OF THE UPPER PLENUM! When you take off the 5 bolts, and the two nuts, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ALL 7 WASHERS and have set them aside before you remove the plenum. I know of 2 guys who had to have an engine rebuilt because they dropped washers down in there.

To remove the plenum (in addition to the 5 bolts and two nuts I talked about above) You need to remove:

  • The intake pipe from the throttle body, but you do not need to remove the throttle body itself
  • The 4 12mm bolts holding it to brackets on the back, three are on the plenum side, and one goes into the throttle body (when you put it back together, make sure you re-attach the grounding strap)
  • The EGR piping
  • The throttle cable
  • The bracket on the passenger side with the three electrical connectors.
What you are going to do is pivot the plenum up out of the way, using a piece of coat hanger to hang it from the hood where it will stay out of the way, if you don't remove the bracket with the three plugs, it will put tension on your fuel injector harness, and may break one of the fuel injector connectors.

When the rear three are back in, simply reverse the steps... Although, I HIGHLY recommend you get a service manual which has these steps as well as pictures. If you are the lease bit mechanically inclined, you should be able to knock out this job in less than two hours.

if you are wanting a good way to see if your wires are ok, pull the trim plate off the front plugs, and idle the car at night with the hood up.. if you see arcing and sparking, the plugs are bad.

Good luck,
Iceman_ii on

Posted on Feb 15, 2009


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You have four fault code there...

Code 11
Description: Engine not cranked since last reset or no ignition reference signal detected during cranking
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes:
Engine hasn't been cranked since last reset - Power was removed from the logic module (disconnected or dead battery, etc.) and the logic module has no memory of seeing a signal from the ignition reference sensor. Crank the engine and check for the code again. If the logic module saw a signal, the code will be cleared. This code will not show up if the sensor simply fails. The logic module must be reset and the engine cranked to see if the sensor is working.

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Code 23
Notes: For throttle body injected (N/A) models only

Description: Throttle body temperature sensor signal out of range
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Limp-in mode: Throttle body temperature of 70^F is assumed

Possible Causes
Throttle body temperature sensor failure - The sensor should measure 9,120 ohms to 10,880 ohms at 77^F. This sensor is located on the side of the throttle body, below the throttle plate.

Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the sensor and the logic module (or SMEC). Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- Sensor output less than 0.06V or greater than 4.98V
Results If Component Fails
Fault code 23 is stored, the power loss light is turned on, and the logic module will enter limp-in mode, assuming a throttle body temperature of 70^F.

Code 32
Description: Logic module did not see a change in air/fuel ratio when EGR circuit was activated
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes
EGR valve stuck open or closed - If the vehicle fails emmisions, then the valve may be shut. If the enigne runs poorly at low rpm or at idle, the valve may be stuck open. It may be the valve or the transducer valve. Test the transducer valve vacuum output. At idle, the transducer valve vacuum should be mostly bled, and there should be very little, if any vacuum at the output. When the engine is revved, the vacuum should increase. If the transducer is functioning properly, replace the EGR valve.

Bad EGR solenoid or Canister purge/EGR solenoid - The solenoid is located in the right, front fender next to one to three other solenoids. See the Understanding Solenoids page for information about how to test and repair solenoids.

Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the solenoid and the logic module (or SMEC). Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
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Results If Component Fails
Fault code 32 is stored.

Code 55
Description: End of message
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Possible Causes
No further fault codes are stored. If this is the only code received, then there are no codes stored in memory. This code will always be given, even if nothing is wrong. If you do not get this code, then you may not be retreiving the codes properly, or the power loss light may be burnt out. The light should come on for 1 second when the ignition is initally turned on as a bulb test.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
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Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

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