Hi guys,obviously this could be any number of problems,but the most common ones to cause this is a dirty throttle intake housing,usually a good clean up rectifys this,also check the small vacum hoses for any splits or perishing as this also can cause this problem,hope this helps you's out,Bill.
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I have a 1999 TERRANO QD32ETI engine and the problem which the local agents and private mechanics cannot solve is that when it's on the highways the engine performs well; that is it accelerates perfectly. However, when the vehicle comes to a dead stop, and you go for a quick take off the engine cuts out; it restarts quickly; now,when you make a slow acceleration after stopping the engine does not stall, but this can be a dangerous situation when crossing traffic on the highway or moving off from the traffic lights. We checked the computer, fuel pump and the injectors; our opinions differ and somehow we feel the problem may be the fuel pump. We would appreciate your comments. Our many thanks for your kind assistance. Thanks Tony.
SINCE CAR WONT CRANK. NOW IS THE TIME TO REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH KEY LOCK CYLINDER ITS BROKEN THAT WHY THE CAR KEYS WOULDNT TURN OFF CAR.DISCONNECTING BATTERY CABLES WITH CAR RUNNIMG WILL.SHORT OUT ALTERNATOR AND PCM.IF IN CASE YOU HAD TO REMOVE BATTERY CABLE REMOVE THE GROUND NEGATIVE CABLE FIRST.MAKE SURE ALL ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS OFF LIKE RADIO. AC SYSTEM OFF.THIS WILL PREVENT LARGE ELECTRICAL ARC FROM BATTERY THIS IS ONE TIME PROCEDURE IN CASE ENGINE WONT SHUT OFF ITS A GAMBLE BECAUSE IT WILL TAKE OUT ALTERNATOR AND PCM.REPLACE THE SWITCH AND KEY LOCK CYLINDER DONT KEEP STARTING CAR BY DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY CABLE YOU WILL DAMAGE IGNITION ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.
You have a bad gearbox position sensor located on the transmission. When the transmission computer sees the fault in that sensor it goes into a protective mode in your car starts out in second gear that's why it is sluggish. This is a very common failure on that car. The heater issue is not related.
this maybe caused by no fuel or faulty fuel pump, ignition coil, wire and plug crank position sensor. first check for spark by removing on spark plug wire and put a spark plug in the spark plug wire boot, donot touch the plug only the boot have someone crank the car over. if you see spark, that part of the ignition is good. if not, check the coil resistance if should 40 to 80 ohm with a volt meter pf not replace. if ok, but no spark check the igniton control madule make sure the coil and module are receiving current. if not check the fuse that feels them. if it is ok, check distributor cap and rotor. if rotor and cap are fine, check for fuel at either the fuel filter, the fuel return line or removing some spark plug and see if they are wet. if there is no fuel check the fuel pump and the fuse and relay that control the pump. if there is fuel with high pressure but there is no spark, check the crank sensor for signal with a volt meter while cranking the vehicle
Sounds like the recirculation valve (aka diverter valve) is failing. A lot of turbo cars that have them end up with failures from them, since they're usually cheaply made from plastic, and the diaphragms inside don't hold up over time.
What the valve does is, when you shift, there is a backsurge of boost air that hits the closed throttle plate. The diverter valve (DV) opens and dumps the air back into the intake piping. It's kept closed during acceleration by spring and manifold pressure. When you shift, the pressure drops on the backside of the valve and it opens, venting the excess boost air. If your valve is failing, just the pressure of boost in the intake piping could be pushing it open, causing the acceleration to slow. I'd look into a replacement diverter/recirculation valve.