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Re: my jeep won't start
You need to find the auto shut down relay (shuts down engine in accidents.) Likely it has triggered I am not sure if yours is re-settable or not but if not you can replace it. Generally this relay is found somewhere at the front of the vehicle, underneath, in the vicinity of the bumper. Anyone that works in a body shop can likely point it out or tell you where to look for yours. I'm sure there are a bunch of off road guys who also know how to bypass these, otherwise they would all have problems banging and bumping their way through rough terrain.Sorry I can't be more specif good luckic with this but they keep moving them around!
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skins are facia
1.BODY/EXTERIOR/REAR WHEEL OPENING
FLARE MOLDINGS - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the rear lamp units. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
REAR LAMP UNIT - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the four side bolts. (Fig. 2)
(4) Remove the two bottom rivets.
(5) Remove the 3 screws along the upper edge.
(6) Separate the side plastic retainers and remove
the fascia from the vehicle.
once this is off, all else is obvious. steel parts. damaged
you never state why or if damage was present so....
I can think of two things not easily seen that can cause a banging when hitting small bumps; The sway bar end links could be loose or broken. The rear shock bolts, the lower bolt that holds the shock onto the rear axle, I've seen that mounting hole down there get enlarged, allowing the shock bolt to move about when hitting small bumps, causing a banging sound. Check those two things out.
Sometimes JC Whitney will have those trim pieces, or some other online source if you google it and search a while. Other than that, you can try salvage yards in your area to locate one, or call a jeep dealer to order you a new one made for your specific vehicle body style.
Please rate this answer! Thanks, Mike
You can fix this but you need some specical tools You need a tubeing cutter and a flaring tool you can buy sections of brake line im not suppose to name stores but it begins with an N and ends with an A cut the line back to a point where its sound its easyer if you can remove the other end at a fitting then you;ll olny have to make one flare under the vehicle the flareing tool is about 30 dollars and the tubeing cutter is around 5 -10 dollars thr line is cheap You need to flare the old line to make it work with the new fitting you can;t use compression fittngs there not legal and won;t work if you have a problem getting the fitting end of at the rear wheel try hitting it with a propane torch for a few seconds not to long don;t start a fire or melt your rear wheel cylinder The instructions for the flareing come with the tool don;t try to dubble flare its not nessary but this will be a perminate fix and all you have to do is bleed the rear drivers side wheel cyinder good luck
Move the passenger side rear tire to the front, and passenger side
front to driver side rear. Switch the driver side rear tire to the
front and driver side front to passenger side rear. Repeat this "X"
pattern each time you rotate the tires. Rotate the tires from side to
side if the tires are different sizes on the front and rear.
This is the better solution. Hope helped (remember rated this help)
only on right turns?? a smaller tire would have resulted in damage if the rear is a locking type rearend. IF it is a locking rear end I would change the oil, noting the color and how it looks. replace it and add some "slip additive"............. IF its not a locking type axle, maybe a spider gear problem, but thats inside the housing, not out by the wheel. You may need to take the axle out and inspect the axle/ bearing.
Did the new lens come with new sockets? If not damage may have occured there that you cant see. only other possibilty is wiring damage in the rear that may be hard to see. The condition you describe is simple "backfeeding" if you look hard enough youll either find bad sockets or damaged wires close to the lens that took the hit. Hope this helped. Thanks