Got me racking my one ameoba brain cell this one,and i cant think of anything that i have had like this sort of problem,except once with an old petrol commer truck many years ago,and the problem here was the inlet maniifold was loose.Now as this is obviously an auto then when the engine "kicks " as its dropped into gear then something is causing it to cut out .Now i suggest you check manifold nuts are tight first.Then check all the wiring connectors onto the sensors on the engine ,pulling the rubber covers back and checking the wires are connected and none broken or and undue bending that could have broken the copper inside the insulation.Then check the actual connectors themselves ,ensuring they are not broken or burnt.If you cant find anything then call out your local mobile mechanic as he will no doubt have a plug in tester and when engine cuts out it should show a fault??But if it is one of these sensors then iam at a loose end as to what one would cause this sort of fault because when i was at college we were still taught how to white metal and scrape the big end and crank bearings.Not to walk around with white coats and plastic pervert gloves and all looking like bill gates type nerds who can only talk about gigas and OBDII also wouldnt dream of changing a clutch on a big truck on the side of the road with only a trolley jack and a couple of pieces of 4x4 and a chain.Let alone sort out the truck driver and give him a right hander for burning the clutch out in the first place.
have to sleep on this one ,line identical car next to it and swop bits over .connect voltmeter to coil and check that voltage stops when car cuts out ? check wires in the connections behind the rubber covers .try moving and jiggleing the wiring loom .
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after doing a few more tests i find that after it dies from dropping it in gear the engine gets no spark from the top of the coil pack but still after 15-20 mins it will start back just to die after dropping in gear again been told it may be fuel pump. dont think so been told cam sensor. dont have one has module in computer and couldnt be the crank sensor or wouldnt start at all if it did it would run crappy. was told also could be torc solenoid brake in trans that would still not cause it to lose fire after shut down i am just as puzzled. i am leaning to the computer any more ideas would be appreciated
my 2003 kia optima turns on and runs for 15mins then it stops running then when i go to start it again it acts like it wants to start but it dont. then i wait 15 mins and it starts again it seems like it only starts when engine is cool
Engine starts, idles, engine dies when shifted into drive or reverse. Did this after a twenty minute highway drive.
occasionally will not start. makes some clicking as if battery was dead. 10 minutes or so later starts right up. today while on highway transmission light anf antitheft light came on and lost accelleration power. pulled over waited few minutes and was fine. 20 minutes later parked it and shut it off,after 10 more min same starting issue. after several hours put shifter in drive and rolled couple feet put back in park and started right up. any ideas?
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