HI can any one help me i have a 1993 toyoat hilux ute
i replaced the rear R wheel bearing and now i have no brake lights It doesnt seem to have any power to the brake lights, blinkers and park lights fine. I have found the fuses under the bonnet all ok but there are no fuses saying brakes. I checked the brake switch on the pedal no power, Is there any more fuses some where else that i havent found
all i did is fixed the wheel bearing but i let the master drain dry for 2 days i dont know if this has done some thing. If any one can help i would be very greatful thank you
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Did you change the bulbs? It might also be bad wiring. You can check the wiring by using voltmeter connected to the brake light and then have someone depress the brake pedal. If there is not 12- 14 volts on the meter then you most likely have a loose or broken wire somewhere.
This sounds like Brake Light Switch, can be found at any local parts store, for under $15 and easy enough to replace. The switch is located under the brake pedal and depresses when you hit the brakes, causing the brake lights to turn on. Replacing this is cheap and easy.
bought new alternator and battery. This fixed the dash lighting up like a christmas tree. Park brake still stays on. However, there is no lights when driving at night in the dash (unable to see speedo, revs etc) and no light to interior light, original clock or anything. Any suggestions????
maybe your drum has been machined or worn out beyond max oversiuze.or the shoes on the weak brake are reversed [primary shoe in the front insted of rear were it belongs]
or a very roug drum surface from metal to metal contact or a poor machine job
take your fingernail and drag it across the drum surface if you feel snags then have remachined or replace
Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting in General Diagnosis.
Remove the wheel and the tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
Remove and support the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement (Front) or Brake Caliper Replacement (Rear) in Brakes.
Remove the brake rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Remove the ABS sensor wire connector.
Remove the four bolts from the control arm.
Remove the hub and bearing from the control arm.
Remove the brake shield from the control arm.
Clean the control arm face and the bore before installing the hub and the bearing.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the brake shield and the hub and the bearing to the control arm with the four bolts. Be careful not to drop the hub and the bearing, as it could be damaged. Reconnect the ABS sensor. Tighten the hub and bearing bolts to 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.).
Install the brake rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Install the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement (Front) or Brake Caliper Replacement (Rear) in Disc Brakes.
Install the wheel and the tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment. Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).
More than likely its a binding brake. i.e. a sticking wheel cylinder not allowing the shoes to return or a sticking handbrake cable or lever inside the drum. Last possibility is a worn wheel bearing but thats unlikely to produce a great deal of heat unless it was about to break up. This would be apparent by a fair amount of noise. I'd bet on the first suggestions though. Cheers John
Remove the rear wheel & spin the brake drum. Listen for noise. Next, remove the wheel bearing cover/cap, and remove the drum & wheel bearing. Spin the hub, listen for noise. You either have rust buildup on the interior of the brake drum or bad wheel bearings.
Common causes for High-pitched noise from rear wheels are:
The wheel bearing: this is not usually dangerous in the short term, but I recommend contacting a mechanic and having it fixed. To test the wheel bearing, you lock front wheels, and jack up the car rear and spin the wheel (handbrake unlocked). If bearing is worn you hear a drone. When is the bearing, often car starts vibration above 40 mph. Noise from bearing can be continuous, intermittent, only when steering, only when hot.
The brake pads: when brake pads are worn out they start making a squealing noise, in this case the noise is only when you brake or continuous. When you jack up the car the wheel may be a little stiff, but not necessarily.When brake pads are completely gone you also hear a scratching noise when braking. Inspect your brakes immediately.
Other suspension problems: Jack up the car as suggested above, check if the wheel has a slight play on the sides. Check all of the suspension components, suspension mounting points, and
steering linkage for damage. Also, check the frame rail for wrinkles. It is very important that these
components be in good condition, if you notice any problem here, go immediately to a mechanic.
Try doing the simple test above, reinstalling the wheel and working the tire back and forth. This
is a common test for bad ball joints and wheel bearings.