I have already taken off tire, breaks, drum (rotor), I also disconected the steering arm. What else has to be taken off, I can not get axle into the transmision & wheel hub. Goes into transmission, but it can not bend enough to fit in the wheel hub.
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I am a minor shade tree mechanic here so this is just a guess. It might be a front brake rotor, a break pad caliper that has a sticky hydraulic piston, front wheel bearing, or something else. Look at the pad and rotor wear for it possibly being a break system issue. Not sure, if you do not have a solid front axle look at the inner part of the wheel under the vehicle where the ball mates into the socket for any wet fluids or unusual gunk or build up around the axle and break calipers for a wheel bearing problem. Jack up the front end and make sure you chalk the rear tires, vehicle is in PARK and the steering wheel is unlocked as to where the steering wheel can be turned if needed. After vehicles front tires are off the ground try to pivot the front wheels to point in a different direction left turn or right turn. This can be tried by physically grabbing the tire trying to move the tire to point left or right. If the front tires are able to be pointed in a different direction without the aid of the steering wheel, then it could be a wheel bearing issue or a more serious issue. Hope you can make sense of these instructions, and hope this helps you find and fix any and all existing problems you are having with your vehicle.
remove the calipers and rotors if rear disk and then remove the ebrake shoes/cables.
If rear drums remove the drums. remove the shoes and the e brake cable. remove the backing plate bolts. remove backing plate from axle and support with a piece of wire from the frame being careful not to distort the brake line.
remove the bolt that holds the breather an brake junction to the axle.
remove the break line from the tabs (may not have them).
first you remove all the lug nuts and the wheel and tire. To get the rotor off you will need to remove the brake caliper. they are held in with 1/4" hex screws. If you don't have an allen wrench you can use a socket extension to removes these. Once unscrewed the calpet simply lifts off the rotor and the rotor is ready to come off. You will need to remove the axle nut and keeper then the rotor slides off towards you and the wheel bearings will come out with the rotor.
This is due to poor settings of the wheel bearings,tyres,- check balancing once again, wheel drums/ brake pads,suspension , joints and steering.
In all the entire front suspension must be checked, the WHELL ALIGNMENT must be checked with precision and each of the wheels must be checked for damage on hub, axle or chassis.
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove tire and wheel assembly. 2. Install a brass drift or a screwdriver to prevent the rotor from turning, Fig. 7 . 3. Remove axle nut and washer. 4. Remove stabilizer shaft or link from control arm. 5. Remove nut from ball joint, then separate ball joint from steering knuckle using separator tool No. J-36226, or equivalent. 6. Remove drive axle from hub and bearing assembly using front hub spindle remover tool No. J-28733-A, or equivalent, Fig. 8 . 7. Remove drive axle from transaxle using axle shaft remover puller tool Nos. J-33008, J-29794 and slide hammer tool No. J-2619-01, or equivalents, if necessary, Fig. 9 . INSTALLATION 1. Install drive axle into the transaxle using seal protector J-37292-B, or equivalent 2. Seat snap ring by placing a screwdriver into the groove on the joint housing and tapping until seated, Fig. 9 . 3. Grasp the inner housing and pull outward. If the snap ring is properly seated, the axle will remain in place. 4. Install drive axle into hub and bearing assembly. 5. Install lower ball joint to steering knuckle and tighten to specifications. 6. Install stabilizer shaft or link to control arm, tighten to specifications. 7. Insert a screwdriver or drift into caliper and rotor to prevent rotor from turning, Fig. 7 . 8. Install new hub nut and washer, tighten to specification. 9. Install tire and wheel assembly, then lower vehicle
You need to have the rotors resurfaced and also the rear rotrs or drums what ever it has, they are out of round, the best way is to resurface them with a on car lathe, the brakes are pulsating the drums or rotors are out of round causing the steering and pedal to shake, i would also have the front end checked, hope this helps.
Have someone start the truck (keep it in park and put the emergency brake on) and have them turn the wheels back and forth from stop to stop repeatedly while you lay under the front end paying strick attention to all of the steering and control components. I had a vertical hopping of the tires going on. I replaced the outer tie-rod ends and upper and lower ball joints. I also replaced my worn mud tires and changed the steering stabilizer/damper out for a rancho 5000 series stabilizer (heavier duty for off-roading). The vertical hop went away. Now I have a side to side wobble. I can recover from it by hitting the brakes, but what works faster for me is jerking the steering wheel side to side a couple of times (from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock). Never-the-less, it's a serious problem. So, by checking your front end the way I did, you may find the culprit. Don't jack up the front end. Leave it on the ground so the truck's weight affects the system normally. In observing the system while turning the wheel, we found that the front axle was moving side-to-side which drew my attention to the control arm. My control arm bushing (where the control arm joins to the front axle) is heavily worn and moving side to side (around the mounting bolt) approximately 3/4" each direction. Therefore, it's allowing the front axle to shimmy laterally when I hit a bump. I just ordered the new bushing kit from O'Reilly's Auto Parts for $16.00 and it will be here on Tuesday. I'm hoping this will fix my front end as I have already spent $700.00 (and that's doing all of the work myself). It's getting to be an expensive problem. Please let me know if this makes sense to you guys. Seems like a good way to check for worn parts.
I would check the lower control arm bushings and sway bar bushings for the squeak,and the shaken when breaking means you have warped rotors,if it shakes in the steering wheel its the frt,if the whole car shakes then it usaaly means it is in the rear rotorsor drums.
Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting in General Diagnosis.
Remove the wheel and the tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
Remove and support the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement (Front) or Brake Caliper Replacement (Rear) in Brakes.
Remove the brake rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Remove the ABS sensor wire connector.
Remove the four bolts from the control arm.
Remove the hub and bearing from the control arm.
Remove the brake shield from the control arm.
Clean the control arm face and the bore before installing the hub and the bearing.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the brake shield and the hub and the bearing to the control arm with the four bolts. Be careful not to drop the hub and the bearing, as it could be damaged. Reconnect the ABS sensor. Tighten the hub and bearing bolts to 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.).
Install the brake rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement in Disc Brakes.
Install the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement (Front) or Brake Caliper Replacement (Rear) in Disc Brakes.
Install the wheel and the tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment. Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).
Would suggest getting the rotors machined rather than replaced. After the Thickness variation occurs ,then the metal has already taken it's "set" and will stay true longer.
Rotors are cheap now,but go "out of round quickly"