I have already taken off tire, breaks, drum (rotor), I also disconected the steering arm. What else has to be taken off, I can not get axle into the transmision & wheel hub. Goes into transmission, but it can not bend enough to fit in the wheel hub.
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The lower control arm is a two-piece welded unit with a riveted ball joint. A conventional rubber bushing is used for the rear lower control arm pivot. The front lower control arm bushing is mounted vertically.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Some special tools are required to perform this operation including, a front hub spindle removal tool and a suitable ball joint separator tool.
Do not hammer or pry ball joint from knuckle. Failure to use recommended tools may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
See Figure 1
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the control arm-to-frame mounting
Raise the vehicle and suitably support by the frame allowing the control arms to hang free.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the steering gear outer tie rod from the steering knuckle.
Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the control arm.
Remove the front drive axle shaft nut and washer.
Use a suitable front hub spindle removal tool to Push the axle splines back out of the front wheel drive shaft bearing.
Remove the drive axle from the transaxle.
Drive axle joint seal protectors should be used anytime service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this could result in joint or seal failure.
Place a modified inner drive joint seal protector on the drive axle joints.
If equipped, remove the ABS wheel speed sensor jumper harness.
Remove and discard the cotter pin, then loosen the nut from the ball stud.
Remove the pinch bolt and the control arm mounting bolts, then remove the control arm from the vehicle.
I am a minor shade tree mechanic here so this is just a guess. It might be a front brake rotor, a break pad caliper that has a sticky hydraulic piston, front wheel bearing, or something else. Look at the pad and rotor wear for it possibly being a break system issue. Not sure, if you do not have a solid front axle look at the inner part of the wheel under the vehicle where the ball mates into the socket for any wet fluids or unusual gunk or build up around the axle and break calipers for a wheel bearing problem. Jack up the front end and make sure you chalk the rear tires, vehicle is in PARK and the steering wheel is unlocked as to where the steering wheel can be turned if needed. After vehicles front tires are off the ground try to pivot the front wheels to point in a different direction left turn or right turn. This can be tried by physically grabbing the tire trying to move the tire to point left or right. If the front tires are able to be pointed in a different direction without the aid of the steering wheel, then it could be a wheel bearing issue or a more serious issue. Hope you can make sense of these instructions, and hope this helps you find and fix any and all existing problems you are having with your vehicle.
first you remove all the lug nuts and the wheel and tire. To get the rotor off you will need to remove the brake caliper. they are held in with 1/4" hex screws. If you don't have an allen wrench you can use a socket extension to removes these. Once unscrewed the calpet simply lifts off the rotor and the rotor is ready to come off. You will need to remove the axle nut and keeper then the rotor slides off towards you and the wheel bearings will come out with the rotor.
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove tire and wheel assembly. 2. Install a brass drift or a screwdriver to prevent the rotor from turning, Fig. 7 . 3. Remove axle nut and washer. 4. Remove stabilizer shaft or link from control arm. 5. Remove nut from ball joint, then separate ball joint from steering knuckle using separator tool No. J-36226, or equivalent. 6. Remove drive axle from hub and bearing assembly using front hub spindle remover tool No. J-28733-A, or equivalent, Fig. 8 . 7. Remove drive axle from transaxle using axle shaft remover puller tool Nos. J-33008, J-29794 and slide hammer tool No. J-2619-01, or equivalents, if necessary, Fig. 9 . INSTALLATION 1. Install drive axle into the transaxle using seal protector J-37292-B, or equivalent 2. Seat snap ring by placing a screwdriver into the groove on the joint housing and tapping until seated, Fig. 9 . 3. Grasp the inner housing and pull outward. If the snap ring is properly seated, the axle will remain in place. 4. Install drive axle into hub and bearing assembly. 5. Install lower ball joint to steering knuckle and tighten to specifications. 6. Install stabilizer shaft or link to control arm, tighten to specifications. 7. Insert a screwdriver or drift into caliper and rotor to prevent rotor from turning, Fig. 7 . 8. Install new hub nut and washer, tighten to specification. 9. Install tire and wheel assembly, then lower vehicle
You need to have the rotors resurfaced and also the rear rotrs or drums what ever it has, they are out of round, the best way is to resurface them with a on car lathe, the brakes are pulsating the drums or rotors are out of round causing the steering and pedal to shake, i would also have the front end checked, hope this helps.
Raise and support the vehicle safely. Place jackstands under the
frame, then lower the vehicle slightly to allow the control arms to hang
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Insert a drift punch into the caliper and rotor vanes to prevent
the rotor from turning, then remove the hub/drive axle nut. Clean the
threads of the nut.
Unfasten the caliper mounting bolts, then remove and support the caliper aside with a suitable piece of wire.
Remove the rotor by sliding it from the hub.
If equipped with ABS, detach the front wheel speed sensor connector and unclip it from the dust shield.
The hub and bearing are replaced only as an assembly. For 1987-92 vehicles, perform the following:
Using a suitable front hub spindle removal tool, separate the hub from the halfshaft.
Remove the hub and bearing retaining bolts, shield, hub and bearing assembly and the O-ring.
Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle, using the proper tool.
Remove the halfshaft assembly and tap the seal from
the steering knuckle. Remove the steering knuckle from the hub.
For 1993-99 vehicles, perform the following:
Unfasten the hub and bearing retaining bolts and dust shield.
Place the transaxle in PARK.
Using a suitable front hub spindle removal tool, separate the hub and bearing from the drive axle.
If necessary, remove the steering knuckle.
Clean the rust and foreign material from the knuckle mounting
face, bore and chamfer to allow the bearing to properly seat in the
For 1993-99 vehicles, perform the following:
If removed, install the steering knuckle.
Position the hub and bearing assembly to the drive axle. Apply a
light coating of grease to the knuckle bore. If the new hub and bearing
has a protective plastic cover, remove it before installation. Also, do
not handle the knuckle or hub assembly by the ABS sensor wire.
Install a new drive axle nut and draw the hub and bearing onto the axle.
Place the transaxle in NEUTRAL.
Install the dust shield, being careful not to damage the bearing outboard lip seal.
Install the hub and bearing bolts, then tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
For 1987-92 vehicles, perform the following:
Install a new hub and bearing seal in the steering knuckle with a
suitable seal installation tool. Install the steering knuckle to the
Lubricate the hub and bearing with grease. Fill the cavity between the seal and bearing completely.
Install the halfshaft.
Connect the ball joint to the steering knuckle and insert a new O-ring around the hub and bearing assembly.
Install the hub and bearing, and shield into the steering knuckle. Tighten the bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
If equipped, attach the ABS front wheel speed sensor connector, then clip the wire to the dust shield.
Install the rotor and caliper assembly. Tighten the caliper bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm).
Insert a drift punch into the caliper and rotor vanes to prevent
the rotor from turning. If not already done, install the shaft washer
and nut (if equipped). Tighten the nut to the following specifications:
1987-88 vehicles: 3 ft. lbs. (270 Nm).
1989-90 vehicles: 15 ft. lbs. (260 Nm).
1991-99 vehicles: 107 ft. lbs. (145 Nm).
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Carefully lower the vehicle, then tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm).
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You don't need the special tools that they use in this procedure, you can use a hammer and a block of wood to get the axle out of the hub and you can use a pry bar to get the axle out of the transmisson.
Notice: Care must be exercised to prevent the constant-velocity joints from
being over-extended. When either end of the drive axle is disconnected, over-extension
of the joint could result in separation of internal components and possible
joint failure. Drive axle joints and seals should be protected any time service
is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this can result
in interior joint or seal damage and possible joint failure.
Notice: Prior to removal of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the
area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during
Place shop towels underneath the outer joint to protect from any
Insert a drift (1)
into the caliper and the rotor to prevent the rotor from turning.
Remove the drive axle nut (2) and the washer.
Remove the lower ball join from the steering knuckle. Refer to
Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement
Front Suspension. If you remove the right axle, turn the wheel to the left.
If you remove the left axle, turn the wheel to the right.
Use the J 28733-B
in order to disengage the axle from
the hub and the bearing.
Separate the hub and the bearing assembly from the drive axle.
Move the strut and the knuckle assembly rearward.
Remove the inner joint
from the transaxle using J 33008
attached to J 29794
and J 2619-01
for the intermediate
shaft, if equipped.
Installation ProcedureNotice: Prior to installation of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges
in the area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged
Any time the front halfshaft is removed, the transmission
(the halfshaft male and female shank) and the knuckle sealing surfaces should
be inspected for debris or corrosion.
If debris or corrosion are present on the sealing surfaces, clean them
with a 320 grit cloth or equivalent. Transmission fluid may be used to clean
off any of the remaining debris. The surface should be wiped dry, and
the halfshaft should be reinstalled free of any debris or corrosion buildup.
Install the drive axle (2)
into the transaxle (1). Place a non-ferrous drift into the groove
on the joint housing and then tap until the drift is seated. Be careful
not to damage the axle seal or dislodge the seal garter spring when you
install the axle.
Important: Verify that the drive axle is seated by grasping on the inner joint
housing and pulling outboard.
Install the drive axle (1) into the hub and bearing assembly (2).
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners
must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring
replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant
are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or
corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage
the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when
installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the washer
and the new drive axle nut (2).
Insert a drift (1) into the caliper and the rotor in order to
prevent the rotor from turning. Tighten Tighten the drive axle nut to 200 N·m (144 lb ft).