An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Visited the website for 3 consecutive days.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
Re: adjusting the auto kickdown on a 1994 Isuzu Mu 3.1...
First, look at the kiickdown cable from the trany end follow it and locate where it is actually connected. Some are connected to the injection pump, electronic ones are connected to a bracket and another cable going to the throttle pedal. the adjustment is just like a accelerator cable adjustment( held by two 12mm nuts on the threaded end of the cable). to adjust, more cable slack = kickdown closer to the floor. less slack = kickdown closer to released throttle.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It is not adjustable as it is Hydrolic. it self adjusts.
If you just installed a master cylinder for it, the shaft does have a minor adjustment on it.
Most likely what is happening is one of two........
1. The clutch is worn out and the pedal is getting VERY LOW.
2. The clutch is new and you have air in the system............. These things are a nightmare to bleed out. slowly pump the pedal while someone uses a prybar to disengage the clutch to allow full travel of the slave cylender. While they hold the pedal release the pry bar and open the bleeder, repeat twice more, then fill the master cylender again, continue until all air is out!
That depends on the amount added and the engine, yours would be 7 parts diesel to 1 part gas. I do not have the different effects on engines using different ratios of deisel to gas, I suspect the richer the mix ratio of gas to deisel, the more noticable the reactions will be. First off there are two immediate impacts of diesel fuel mixed with gasoline: the octane is lowered and the fuel vaporization is reduced. The lowered octane may cause the engine to knock. Some engines have knock sensors and the electronic controls that will adjust the timing and other engine conditions to try to control the knock. If the knock remains significant it can damage the engine by causing metal fatigue eventually leading to failure of critical parts like pistons, connecting rods, heads. Some very old engines (e.g. 1950's tractors) can accomodate lower octane, but the ones found in recent autos are normally running close to the knock threashold. The reduced volotitility caused by the added diesel will cause hard starting and will probably result in some unburnt hydrocarbons remaining in the exhaust gas from the engine; these may be reacted in the catalytic convertor causing it to overheat. A modern electronic controlled emission system controls the oxygen level in the exhaust gas going to the convertor so the significant increase in hydrocarbons with controlled oxygen may save the convertor, but will likely result in unburnt hydrocarbons exiting the exhaust. This will result in a smell and air pollution. Gas will also damage deisel fuel pumps as well.
if u want it to kick down later simply adjust more slack in the cable if u want it to kick down earlier make it tighter check the slack at the throttle body side adjust it to have about 1/4 inch slack drive and adjust acordingly