Question about 2003 Ford F350 Super Duty DRW SuperCab

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2001 ford f350 4x4 auto hubs work after Replacing hub seals And

Vacume pump and 4x4 Solenoid But Heater Is Stuck On Defrost When Not In 4x4 Loses Vacume To Heater Controls When In 4x4 All Works Fine All Vacume Lines And Hoses Have no Leaks And Are Not Clogged

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6 Suggested Answers

hi99ins
  • 123 Answers

SOURCE: front hubs won't engage

If you have a vacuum pump (bicycle pump wil work) , hook up to the very rear of the acuator, give it some vacuum and listen for it operating. If it doesnt then the actuator may be bad.
If it does make nooise and move, a check for leaks in your vacuum system is in order. Just follow the pipes around and inspect them (engine running) and listen for leaks.
Hope this helps...

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

  • 202 Answers

SOURCE: 4 wheel drive engages but hubs are not locking in

chances are that your one of your auto locks have when out on you you can replace them with the manual locking type if you dont mind getting out and locking the hubs in. and a plus to manual locks is that they are much much stronger

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 06 front locking hub makes noise only in 2hi

This is a very common problem. You must have a leaking IWE and you have to check it at each individual wheel. WIth a vacuum pump and gauge, test each side individually. If either side (or both) cannot hold about 5inhg for even 10 seconds that's likely your culprit wheel. You should be able to pump up 5inhg and turn your 4x4 shaft.

http://www.f150forum.com/showthread.php?p=210744

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: saturn code p0442, evap system small leak, can't find leak

I would send the car in for a smoke test...So much easier to find the leak...

Posted on Mar 16, 2010

Testimonial: "found another definitation for a code 422. replaced rear o2,fixed"

sscullys
  • 984 Answers

SOURCE: vacume hubs

IF this is a case that the IWEs will not disengage, it could be the IWE solenoid or the vacuum lines to the IWEs. Could also be a problem with the vent lines from the IWE ( the other vacuum line that runs up into the engine compartment, and just hangs there ).

This is the block diagram of the vacuum lines for the IWE ( not actual routing ). You can use a vacuum pump / gauge to see if the lines will hold vacuum. Don't be surprised if the vacuum lines test OK, there is a TSB on the IWE solenoid where it could ingest water, and allow water in the lines, which will not keep the IWE gears disengaged.

Block diagram of the IWE system
b893440.jpg

TSB on the IWE solenoid ( right click save as )
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/file_tsb06_08_15.pdf


Posted on May 31, 2010

  • 7353 Answers

SOURCE: can i get rid of

If you lock them , doesnt that work? I though tthat AUTO was to keep you from having to go outside and manually locking them, so locked is locked....right?

Posted on Dec 01, 2010

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2 Answers

2003 f250superduty,4wd will engage if hubs are locked in will not engage when hubs are set to auto


Most common problem is a vacuum leak to the hubs. Check the lines from the vacuum pulsating solenoid all the way down to each hub connection. If the lines are good,use a vacuum pump to apply vacuum to the hub with the line removed. You should hear a slight click at about 5 inches of vacuum if the hub seals are good(test both hubs individually). Just one bad seal in either hub can cause the entire system to malfunction.

Feb 21, 2015 | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

1 Answer

The air flow vent is stuck on defrost mode. when i switch to a/c or face/floor no air is directed out. the fan seems to be working fine


The air direction is vacum controlled. If you have 4X4 and ESOF ( switch in the cab) then you need to inspect the vacum lines that go to the hubs and possibly the hub seals. "default" position for air flow is the defrost position. If you DON'T have 4X4, and it's a diesel engine, inspect the vacum pump, If it's a gas engine then look at all the vacum lines from the intake manifold for a leak.

Jun 27, 2011 | 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty Super Cab

1 Answer

2003 f250 cant get any vaccum to come out of silinoid by right front fender center wire has juice


It sounds like you're referring to the ESOF PVH solenoid for auto locking the front hubs.


With the hublocks in the AUTO position, the 4x4 ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends when switching the instrument panel MSS between 2WD and 4x4 modes. A high vacuum level (222 mm [8.75 in] Hg and greater) is applied to the hublocks to lock the internal spring mechanism that engages (locks) the hublocks for 4x4 mode, and a lower vacuum

level (114 to 184 mm [5.9 to 7.1 in] Hg) is applied to unlock the spring mechanism that disengages (unlocks) the hublocks for 2WD mode.


The vacuum system is actually pretty simple. On the passenger side firewall is an electric vacuum pump. There is a vacuum line coming off of it that goes over to a vacuum reservoir. Also connected to the reservoir is a T fitting with two lines from it. One line goes forward into the cab to the heater controls. The other line enters a loom and goes to the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock) solenoid. This solenoid controls vacuum to the automatic hub locks.

The first tests I would do are pretty simple. With the key in the RUN position, unplug the line at the pump. The pump should start running immediately. Put your finger over the nipple and the pump should stop immediately. This verifies your pump is good.

Once you've done that, I'd hook the pump back up, leave the key in RUN and watch the system for awhile. Maybe 10 to 15 minutes. The pump should run long enough to pull a vacuum in the reservoir and all the lines and then shut off. If the system holds and the pump doesn't come back on, then you've essentially verified that the reservoir, the lines going forward to the heater controls, and the lines going to the PVH solenoid are all good and not leaking.

If the pump cycles back on regularly, then you have a leak somewhere in those lines or the reservoir and you need to start tracing them out to find it. Start at the reservoir, disconnect a line on the pump side, plug it and see that the pump pulls down a vacuum and holds it. Reconnect that line and move down to the next connection and do the same thing. Continue this procedure until you've traced down all the lines. If you get to a point where the pump continues to run, or cycles on and off, then you've found a leak in the last section of line you've tested.

If all of the lines up to the PVH solenoid test good, then you're left with the solenoid itself, the lines from the solenoid to the hubs, or the hub seals. This is where a good hand vacuum pump with a gauge comes in handy. You can attach the pump at the line going down to the hubs, pump up about 14 PSI of vacuum and see if it holds. If it does, then the lines and the hub seals are good. If it doesn't, then start working down towards the hubs, isolating lines to see if they hold vacuum. It is common to find cracked lines going down to the hubs this way. If you get all the way to the hubs, attach your pump to the vacuum nipple on the back of the hub, pump up about 14 PSI and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then that hubs seals are bad and need replacing.

If, in the end, all of your lines and hubs hold vacuum properly, you are pretty much left with the solenoid itself. Attach your vacuum gauge to the line after the solenoid and have someone switch to 4WD. The solenoid should apply about 14-15 PSI for up to 60 seconds. Then have them switch back to 2WD. The solenoid should apply about 7 PSI for about 60 seconds. If neither of these happens then your solenoid is likely bad.

Feb 22, 2011 | 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty

2 Answers

4 wheel drive does not work


It sounds like you're referring to the ESOF PVH solenoid for auto locking the front hubs.


With the hublocks in the AUTO position, the 4x4 ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends when switching the instrument panel MSS between 2WD and 4x4 modes. A high vacuum level (222 mm [8.75 in] Hg and greater) is applied to the hublocks to lock the internal spring mechanism that engages (locks) the hublocks for 4x4 mode, and a lower vacuum level (114 to 184 mm [5.9 to 7.1 in] Hg) is applied to unlock the spring mechanism that disengages (unlocks) the hublocks for 2WD mode.


The vacuum system is actually pretty simple. On the passenger side firewall is an electric vacuum pump. There is a vacuum line coming off of it that goes over to a vacuum reservoir. Also connected to the reservoir is a T fitting with two lines from it. One line goes forward into the cab to the heater controls. The other line enters a loom and goes to the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock) solenoid. This solenoid controls vacuum to the automatic hub locks.

The first tests I would do are pretty simple. With the key in the RUN position, unplug the line at the pump. The pump should start running immediately. Put your finger over the nipple and the pump should stop immediately. This verifies your pump is good.

Once you've done that, I'd hook the pump back up, leave the key in RUN and watch the system for awhile. Maybe 10 to 15 minutes. The pump should run long enough to pull a vacuum in the reservoir and all the lines and then shut off. If the system holds and the pump doesn't come back on, then you've essentially verified that the reservoir, the lines going forward to the heater controls, and the lines going to the PVH solenoid are all good and not leaking.

If the pump cycles back on regularly, then you have a leak somewhere in those lines or the reservoir and you need to start tracing them out to find it. Start at the reservoir, disconnect a line on the pump side, plug it and see that the pump pulls down a vacuum and holds it. Reconnect that line and move down to the next connection and do the same thing. Continue this procedure until you've traced down all the lines. If you get to a point where the pump continues to run, or cycles on and off, then you've found a leak in the last section of line you've tested.

If all of the lines up to the PVH solenoid test good, then you're left with the solenoid itself, the lines from the solenoid to the hubs, or the hub seals. This is where a good hand vacuum pump with a gauge comes in handy. You can attach the pump at the line going down to the hubs, pump up about 14 PSI of vacuum and see if it holds. If it does, then the lines and the hub seals are good. If it doesn't, then start working down towards the hubs, isolating lines to see if they hold vacuum. It is common to find cracked lines going down to the hubs this way. If you get all the way to the hubs, attach your pump to the vacuum nipple on the back of the hub, pump up about 14 PSI and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then that hubs seals are bad and need replacing.

If, in the end, all of your lines and hubs hold vacuum properly, you are pretty much left with the solenoid itself. Attach your vacuum gauge to the line after the solenoid and have someone switch to 4WD. The solenoid should apply about 14-15 PSI for up to 60 seconds. Then have them switch back to 2WD. The solenoid should apply about 7 PSI for about 60 seconds. If neither of these happens then your solenoid is likely bad.

You may want to check the center pin of the solenoid wiring connector for power.

Dec 30, 2010 | 2000 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cabs

1 Answer

Can i get rid of the vacume part of my hubs i have hubs now that are lock and auto because the vacume seals keep going bad.


If you lock them , doesnt that work? I though tthat AUTO was to keep you from having to go outside and manually locking them, so locked is locked....right?

Dec 01, 2010 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Climate control is on defrost only the auto


Check your vacuum pump located on the right side fenderwell. see if its running. Check the vacuum hose at the hubs for leaks or damage. repair if damaged. check for other vacuum leaks such as the grey hose going to the heater control valve.

Oct 03, 2009 | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

2 Answers

F250 2004 4x4 not working, vacuum holds on lines to hub, motor works on the shift motor (position sensor also seems to work as lights went off after I manually shifted out of 4x4), not sure if vacuum...


With the hublocks in the AUTO position, the 4x4 ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends when switching the instrument panel MSS between 2WD and 4x4 modes. A high vacuum level (222 mm [8.75 in] Hg and greater) is applied to the hublocks to lock the internal spring mechanism that engages (locks) the hublocks for 4x4 mode, and a lower vacuum

level (114 to 184 mm [5.9 to 7.1 in] Hg) is applied to unlock the spring mechanism that disengages (unlocks) the hublocks for 2WD mode.


The vacuum system is actually pretty simple. On the passenger side firewall is an electric vacuum pump. There is a vacuum line coming off of it that goes over to a vacuum reservoir. Also connected to the reservoir is a T fitting with two lines from it. One line goes forward into the cab to the heater controls. The other line enters a loom and goes to the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock) solenoid. This solenoid controls vacuum to the automatic hub locks.

The first tests I would do are pretty simple. With the key in the RUN position, unplug the line at the pump. The pump should start running immediately. Put your finger over the nipple and the pump should stop immediately. This verifies your pump is good.

Once you've done that, I'd hook the pump back up, leave the key in RUN and watch the system for awhile. Maybe 10 to 15 minutes. The pump should run long enough to pull a vacuum in the reservoir and all the lines and then shut off. If the system holds and the pump doesn't come back on, then you've essentially verified that the reservoir, the lines going forward to the heater controls, and the lines going to the PVH solenoid are all good and not leaking.

If the pump cycles back on regularly, then you have a leak somewhere in those lines or the reservoir and you need to start tracing them out to find it. Start at the reservoir, disconnect a line on the pump side, plug it and see that the pump pulls down a vacuum and holds it. Reconnect that line and move down to the next connection and do the same thing. Continue this procedure until you've traced down all the lines. If you get to a point where the pump continues to run, or cycles on and off, then you've found a leak in the last section of line you've tested.

If all of the lines up to the PVH solenoid test good, then you're left with the solenoid itself, the lines from the solenoid to the hubs, or the hub seals. This is where a good hand vacuum pump with a gauge comes in handy. You can attach the pump at the line going down to the hubs, pump up about 14 PSI of vacuum and see if it holds. If it does, then the lines and the hub seals are good. If it doesn't, then start working down towards the hubs, isolating lines to see if they hold vacuum. It is common to find cracked lines going down to the hubs this way. If you get all the way to the hubs, attach your pump to the vacuum nipple on the back of the hub, pump up about 14 PSI and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then that hubs seals are bad and need replacing.

If, in the end, all of your lines and hubs hold vacuum properly, you are pretty much left with the solenoid itself. Attach your vacuum gauge to the line after the solenoid and have someone switch to 4WD. The solenoid should apply about 14-15 PSI for up to 60 seconds. Then have them switch back to 2WD. The solenoid should apply about 7 PSI for about 60 seconds. If neither of these happens then your solenoid is likely bad.

You may want to check the center pin of the solenoid wiring connector for power.

Sep 02, 2009 | 2004 Ford F250

1 Answer

When i turn on heat or ac it runs on the defrost setting but wont shift to the vent or floor until the 4 wheel drive knob gets turned on 1999 f250 I heard this was a common problem is it the switch for 4x4...


you have a vacum leak in the 4x4 engagement system. there is a vacum solenoid on the passenger side next to the battery. should have 3 hoses to it I believe. check those hoses for cracks they go all the way to both front wheels. the ones in the wheel wells are usually messed up. if all hoses are good hook up a hand held vacum pump to each wheel they should hold about 15 hg on the vacum guage if not your wheel hub seals are leaking.

Jun 24, 2009 | 2002 Ford F250 Super Duty SuperCab

2 Answers

Hubs will not enguage when set to auto


the hubs on that truck are a vaccum controled hub, when the swithch is turned to 4x4 the vaccum control solenoid (on the fender) applys vaccum to the hub and locks- you can put a vaccum gauge on the hubs- if a leak is found thre is an o ring and an axle hub seal that needs to be replaced... if no leak is found at the hubs check the vac. lines and solenoid.goodluck

May 20, 2009 | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

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