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Nice idea, but simply putting the wheel on won't allow the controls to work. You need the wiring harness as well and your car must have a compatible harness to connect that harness to. Lastly, since you are using a newer car, there may even be computer modifications required for this if the signals are being sent over the serial data link in the car. These changes are not the simple jobs they once were on the older, pre-computer-controlled car days.
if its not jacked up and has factory stock wheels on it and going to stay that way keep the stock ratio in the rear end its not the rear end that makes it go faster its the motor then trans then rear end so why besides to do something to it ok put a blower on it spend the money where its going to count and look good doing it
Hello there, here are a few tips to guide you through.
Disconnect the negative battery connection cable from the battery terminal. Remove both the upper and lower steering column covers by either unscrewing them or unclipping them, depending on your car make and model. You may need to use a small pry bar to remove the upper and lower steering column covers, if so, use caution and take your time, you don't want to shatter or crack the plastic covers.
Remove the steering wheel cover and unscrew the steering wheel from the steering column, there should be six bolts securing it in place. Pull the steering wheel off the shaft slightly and make a mark on both the steering wheel and the shaft to make it easier to line up during the reassembly process. Disconnect the horn wire from the steering wheel by pulling on the boot --- not the wire itself --- to avoid any damage. Pull the steering wheel straight back and remove it entirely from the assembly.
Remove the spacer sleeve off the steering column. Remove the large center nut and washer from the steering column that secures the steering wheel adapter in place. Don't remove the steering wheel adapter until you have made a mark on it and the shaft so that you can properly realign them when reassembling. Gently remove the adapter by pulling straight back on it and set it aside.
Remove the three screws securing the stock in position. Remove the screws securing the plastic casing around the stock and take the casing off. Carefully pull the stock away from the steering column and gently guide the wires out until they have cleared the steering column, revealing the ignition switch assembly. You don't have to remove the wires from the stock; it's light enough to hang by the wires and not cause damage. Just pull out enough so that it's out of the way. In some cases, the stock will come apart in two pieces. If that's the case, slide off the first piece of the stock and unscrew the second piece, which is usually the piece that connects to your signal switch. Pull it off and bring it together with the first piece of the stock.
Remove the small plastic spacer collar around the steering column by gently prying it back inch by inch. Remove the Allen head bolt located on the underside of the steering column and pull back the assembly with the ignition switch. Unplug the wires from the back of the ignition switch and pull it away from the steering column.
Insert your key into the ignition and turn it to the locked position. Unscrew the small Phillips screw securing the ignition switch in the ignition switch assembly and slide it out. Put your new ignition switch into the ignition switch assembly and reassemble the entire steering system in the reverse order. Some ignition switch models will require you to depress a retaining pin with a small screwdriver while the key is in the locked position to remove it from the assembly. If your ignition switch is not secured with a small Phillips screw, look for the retaining pin.
i am going to go along with your idea... if you are using larger than stock wheels - tires then yes, the load on the gears is much more. I lost a good rear diff myself running larger diameter tires on stock wheels. I would think this is less than uncommon and they must have some heavier ring and pinions to solve this problem, Check at a performance parts store or 4x4 parts and repair shop.
If your "stock" 97 Accord is a base model then it has 14" tires & wheels. If your idea of fun is zoom-zoom around turns & quick lane changes on the highway then switching to a 16" low profile tire & wheel combo will make you smile a little more. 205/55R16 is a good popular conversion. Your budget will be dented about $800-$1200 If your idea of fun is stomp the gas & go then talk to an engine guru
2 common problems that cause this are the vacuum switch on the transfer case and the vacuum actuator mounted under the battery tray. When the switch on the transfer case goes bad it pulls fluid out of the transfer case and pumps it into the actuator and destroys it. The switch only costs about $15 and are usually stocked at major auto parts stores. The actuator ranges from about $50 to $120 and most of the time need to be ordered. If you reach under the battery tray with the 4wd engaged and follow the cable you will feel the end of the actuator, make sure that it is pulling back. If not either the switch or actuator or both are bad. Hope this helps.