Battery not charging sometimes, drains out while driving
Battery not charging symbol shows and drains out in few minutes while driving, this causes jerks or sometimes vehicle turns off. But sometimes if I pull aside and keep accelerating, all the lights including speedo meter blink and when battery drains out completely, it restarts charging and all the lights come back working fine.
When it dies and if engine turns off, giving a jump start restarts everything fine. This is very frustrating and not sure when it works and when it does not.
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Re: battery not charging sometimes, drains out while...
You have a Bad Belt Tensioner. That is Causing your Problems. If the Tensioner is not Keeping the Belt Tight you will get the Symtoms as Described Above. Please Rate my Solution, I need all the Help that I can Get! Thanks!
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Assume you mean drains of power not fluid. Does battery light show on dash with engine running. Make sure that the alternator drive belt is correctly tensioned (longest side betwen pullys move 1/2" up/down). If it takes a few days to loose charge temp fix is to use a solar battery charger that can charge battery when car is parked. Hope this helps.
Generally the indicator should glow green for the life of the battery unless it has drained or failed.
If you generally drive extremely short distances (under 15 minutes per trip) you could be draining the battery whenever you drive. This is a common problem in city cars. Otherwise it's possible something is faulty in the charging circuit.
Sounds like alternator (generator) is at fault. Voltage at battery should read about 14 volts when charging. Sometimes onlythe regulator (diode pack) on alternator is at fault some can be changed without having to have a new alternator (not sure about yaris)
Most likely you have something draining the battery. Quick way to tell, disconnect the ground (negative) cable to the battery, let it sit for a few hours, then reconnect it and try to start it. If it starts OK, you know the battery is holding a charge, but something is draining it. To drain it in just a few hours requires a serious draw, like headlights or the cooling fan. It is possible that your cooling fan (behind the radiator) is staying on all the time. Often they are controlled by a thermostat, and will run for a few minutes after you shut off the engine, but it should shut off within about five minutes. If it is still running after ten or more minutes, you have a bad fan thermostat or a bad fan relay. If that is not the problem, you will have to get someone with an ammeter to measure the current draw, and start pulling fuses until you find the culprit.
Sounds like you regulator points are staying closed, thus causing the no-charge condition as well as the severe drain on your battery. Check the fusable links, the ES1 and ES2 motors were famous for this in 82-85, but if they are fine, replace your alternator.
Check and clean all connections to & from battery, as in the other ends of cables as well. Make sure starter wires are all in good shape & tight as well. When you hear that click, try to locate area or relay doing the clicking. It may just be a faulty relay. Sometimes it's as simple as removing it and plugging it back in to clean the connection. Do you by chance have a 12volt DC test light to test draw on battery?
Tricky ... Was the alternator replaced with a 2nd hand one or a new one?
A defective alternator can allow the battery to discharge within a few minutes (the diodes in the rear of the alternator can burn out and cause the problem. The diode pack can be replaced). When this happens recharging the battery only replaces the power in the battery - which drains straight back to earth via the alternator, flattening the battery again - often within a couple of minutes or less.
Does the battery lose its charge when the car is standing or just when the engine is fired up? If the battery loses its charge overnight, try disconnecting the wiring from the rear of the alternator (also look at the electrical connector that fits into the back of the alternator - look for melting/burning marks which suggest something may be amiss inside the alternator).
Let the car stand overnight with the alternator wires disconnected. Will it start up ok and drive (with the alternator wires still disconnected) the next morning?
You could also try just disconnecting the alternator wires, firing up the car and then driving it - If the car drives ok without dying out and gets further down the street than it usually does, then it probably is the alternator at fault. The car should drive until the battery drains and has insufficient power to trigger the ignition. You certainly would get further down the street with a charged battery and disconnected alternator than you currently do.
It does sound as though you've had an alternator fault to begin with. If it has been replaced with a 2nd hand unit that unit may also be faulty. Rather than replace parts in desperation, visit an auto electrician's - within a few minutes they will be able to test the battery/alternator output and also identify where the lost current is going. It will be cheaper in the long run to have an auto electrician look at the charging system. It only takes a few minutes.