If you have had any damage done to the spindle from the wheel bearings blowing...you would definitely be able to tell. Anytime I have ever seen damaged spindles, it has looked like marks that remind me of an animal chewing on a rawhide bone a while. there would be scrapes around it and gouges in the metal as if sharp metal slid across it or something that looks like you ran a tough saw blade across the metal...its the easiest way I can describe it. Of course look for cracks or pits because it could be a weak spot in the metal and make sure the metal's integrity is good (spindle doesn't look twisted or bent). Hope this helps and I apologize for my silly explanation of it's appearance but it's something people can easily picture.
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The bearing is in the hub.. Here are some instructions for that:
The wheel bearing is installed in the wheel hub assembly and is serviced by replacement only.
You may need Torx sockets to remove the bearing assembly bolts.
Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
At the wheel hub, remove the cotter pin and retainer, then loosen and remove the castle nut and the thrust washer. In order to hold the hub from turning when loosening the nut, insert a drift through the caliper and into the rotor vanes. Remove the brake caliper and support it aside using wire or a coat hanger. Make sure the brake line is not stretched or damaged.
Remove the brake rotor from the wheel hub.
Remove the bolts retaining the hub/bearing assembly to the knuckle, then carefully pull the assembly from the splined end of the halfshaft. If available, use J-28733-A or B, or an equivalent spindle remover to prevent damage to the shaft or hub/bearing assembly.
Remove the cotter pin from the drive axle end nut and retainer
Remove the retainer for access to the end nut
Loosen the drive axle nut-here the caliper is installed so a drift could be inserted to keep the disc from spinning
Is it a 2 wheel drive of 4 wheel drive explorer?? I'm going to take a shot in the dark and go with 4x4. Remove the cotter pin and axle nut. Then jack up and brace the vehicle. Remove the front tire (since you said wheel bearing and not axle bearing), caliper, caliper bracket, and the three bolts on the back of the spindle that hold in the bearing and hub. Slide the hub and bearing out. May take a couple of taps with a hammer.
If it's four wheel drive, remove the wheel center and the cotter pin and castelated cover on the axle nut. put the wheel back on the car. With the car on the ground, put your socket through the center of the wheel and using a long breaker bar (with the aid of a five foot pipe) break the axle nut free. Remove the wheel, caliper and rotor. Loosen the three twelve point bolts that retain the bearing hub assembly to the steering knuckle and turn them most of the way out. Put an old twelve point socket on them one at a time and hammer them to drive the hub out of the knuckle, using lots of solvent around the perimeter. If the axle tries to follow put the axle nut on it and give it a shot to separate it from the bearing. Once removed, clean all rust from the bore and reverse process using the new hub. Torque on axle nut is 175 foot lbs. if cotter pin does not align properly, turn tighter to align holes, never back off to do that. good luck
well lift ranger and grab wheel ,see if theres movement in wheel good be wheel bearings, or bad ball joint, pull on wheel in up and down motion if it move try to see if its bearing or balljoint if the spindle is moving thats balljoint if just the wheel then its bearing, start there good luck.
is this front wheel? rear wheel? or 4 wheel drive? if you have front wheel drive or 4 wheel drive you will need to take the tire off and get the center cap off with cotter pin on most vehicles. then put the tire back on without its center cap. then put the vehicle back on the ground. then use required socket with an extention and breaker bar to put through the rim to loosen center hub bolt about a quarter turn. just enough to break it loose. then take the tire back off to finish the job. remove the brake caliper and rotor then center nut on hub bearing. there should be 3 bolts from the inside holding hub bearing on. on rear wheel only you won't need to take the tire off and on.
Nope. 90% chance its your caliper pins. the caliper is required to float. When you remover the caliper by the two pins or whatever your application they require lube. if one is bent or seized the caliper wont float, the pads or pad will continue to wear because the caliper wont return to "neutral" location when the piston no longer has pressure on it. locate these pins and lubricate them with a graphite grease or something like lubriplate or similar. if the pins are bent remove them and replace. they're pretty cheap. good luck