I need the torque specs for the rear axle of my 96 ford ranger its the 7.5 inch ring gear the pinion bearings went outon it an i got a complete rebuild kit for it problem is no torque specs included i need the pinion an center carrier specs for it so i dont over or under torque them
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I believe your rear end uses a crush sleeve. You have to shim your pinion gear to the proper depth first, then you have to crush sleeve (impact gun helps), then measure the torque ( inch pounds I believe) it takes to rotate the pinion gear. If you don't have the right equipment to set up your rear end, take it to a shop.
The only way you can get an accurate preload reading is with an in/lb torque wrench on the pinion nut with the carrier removed.
Not knowing which differential is in the truck, I'm guessing a 9.25" rear loader type.
The correct way to do it is remove the axles and ring gear carrier. Set your preload with a NEW crush sleeve and in/lb torque wrench. Re-install the ring gear carrier and check contact pattern and backlash.
That said, you probably will be alright if you re-torque the pinion nut to spec plus a hair. Look it up in a manual. EXAMPLE: if it's 210 MINIMUM ft/lb add 5-10 lbs. Preload is 10-20 in/lbs. I have seen shops do this to save the customer money (or charge them for complete disassembly and not do the work). It should take up the slack from the crush sleeve.
This is NOT the correct way, but if you are in a bind it might work. I can't guarantee the bearing won't fail in the future.
170 ft.lbs is the minimum; be aware that this differential uses a crush sleeve to set the backlash and the pinion torque is what crushes the crush sleeve. If you don't set the backlash correctly you can grind up your differential gears. 8 Inch Ford Rear End Torque Specifications eHow
I have a '68 Motor's manual (goes back to'58) the only rear end specs I can find are for the pinion nut (140 ft. lbs.)
pinion preload: 17-27 in. lbs. w/integral carrier or 22-32 in.lbs. w/ removable carrier. Tightening the carrier bearings isn't so much a torque setting but more or a tightening procedure. Theses specs are done during the rebuild so I wonder if you're asking about the bearing caps or bolts that hold the diff. to the axle housing? I could not find a spec. for bolt torque. Since the bolts that hold it in (if that is what you asking about) are not a bearing adjustment, you can go with a generic torque based on bolt size. Again, I'm not sure what component, or bolts it is you are asking for torque specs on.
The pinion nut does not have a torque spec. as in how tight the nut is. The amount of torque is measured in bearing preload. You will need a "torque to rotate" torque wrench. If you are using new bearings the torque spec. is 15-25 in. lbs. If you are using your old bearings the torque spec. is 10-20 in. lbs to rotate. To measure this you will need to tighten the nut in small increments then use the torque to rotate wrench to turn the pinion without the carrier/ ring gear installed. Repeat until desired torque is reached.
There is no torque specs,this nut has to be tightened back like it was ,the best thing to do,was,to late now,is to use a torque wrench to remove the nut,and remember the torque,and when replacing it,torque it back to that spec,the reason being,there is a crush sleeve between the front pion bearing ,and the rear pinion bearing,and it has to be crushed to a certain amount,to aquire deepness into the ring gear,anyway just give it about 25 lbs torque,any more the crush sleeve will crush even more and the deepness of the pinion will be too much.
CAUTION: Following procedure must be used to retain proper pinion bearing preload. Failure to follow procedure may result in premature axle assembly or component failure. Ensure pinion bearing preload is checked before disassembly, as previous pinion bearing preload will be used during reassembly.
1. Raise and support vehicle. Scribe reference mark on drive shaft-to-pinion flange on differential for reassembly reference. Remove bolts and "U" joint straps at pinion flange on differential. Disconnect drive shaft from differential. 2. Remove rear wheels and brake drums to prevent any drag that may affect pinion bearing preload reading. Using INCH-lb. torque wrench, measure amount of force required to rotate pinion. This is pinion bearing preload. Record pinion bearing preload for reassembly reference. 3. Using Holder (6719), hold pinion flange. Remove pinion nut and washer. Scribe reference mark on pinion flange-to-pinion for reassembly reference. Using appropriate puller, remove pinion flange from pinion. Remove oil seal from axle housing.
1. Ensure oil seal surface in axle housing is clean. Coat lip of oil seal with gear lube. Install oil seal using appropriate seal installer. Drive oil seal into axle housing until oil seal installer contacts axle housing. 2. Install pinion flange on pinion with reference mark aligned. Using appropriate pinion flange installer, install pinion flange on pinion.
CAUTION: Washer must be installed on pinion with convex side of washer facing outward (away from pinion).
3. Install washer on pinion with convex side of washer facing outward (away from pinion). Install NEW pinion nut. Tighten pinion nut to 210 ft. lbs. (285 N.m). Rotate pinion several times to seat pinion bearings.
CAUTION: DO NOT overtighten or loosen then retighten pinion nut when adjusting pinion bearing preload. If pinion nut is overtightened, collapsible spacer on pinion must be replaced.
4. Rotate pinion using INCH-lb. torque wrench. Rotating torque should be equal to reading recorded in removal step 2) , plus 5 INCH lbs. (.056 N.m). If rotating torque is low, tighten pinion nut in small increments until proper rotating torque is obtained. 5. To install remaining components, reverse removal procedure using NEW "U" joint straps and bolts. Ensure all reference marks are aligned. Tighten bolts to specification. Check lubricant level and add if necessary.
Block the front tires. Break the rear lugs loose. Jack up the rear of the truck at the center if possible. remove the wheels & brake drums. Remove the brake shoes,return springs & all the other hardware. Remove the differential cover & drain oil. If you have a posi the next step sucks. You need to remove the threaded pin from the housing & remove the axle retaining clips. All the while,being carefull of the spring in the posi unit. If no posi,then same procedure,minus the "pucker factor". After the axle is out,take a large flat blade screw driver or pry bar & pop the seal out. Keep in mind the axle bearing is probably gone too , so that's another procedure. Keep it apart,you'll be glad you did.