Re: BRIVIS EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM LEAKING WHEN NOT OPERATING
This normal and expected behaviour. As water is temporarily stored in the evaporative cooling unit there is a risk of bacteria developing (ir Legionairres disease) so the unit dumps the water periodically when in use or about 1 hour after the unit has been turned off. This means the water in the unit is constantly 'fresh' or fresh enough anyway so there's less chance of bacteria developing.
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I am concerned that what you have been told may not be exactly true. If the pipe to the inside of the car from the ac compressor is frosting up ( water condensation) then it has a low pressure area which indicates that the gas is getting through the evaporator ( bit inside the car). If the evaporator was blocked then the low pressure switch would switch off the ac compressor (low gas/no gas)
because the gas could not get past the blockage then the high pressure switch would stop the compressor because of high head pressures which can damage the compressor.
The most logical thing is that the TX valve is partially blocked or the thermostat setting is wrong.preventing sufficient gas flow into the evaporator to cool the car.
If you car has a climate control system then that unit may need checking. Best have an accredited ac specialist shop check the system
And to answer you question as to possibility of flushing or cleaning or washing out the evaporator. this is not a possibility as there can be no moisture what ever inside an ac system. However you can check if the cooling fins on the evaporator are blocked with an oily type dust then you can use an ac fin cleaner . This will allow the air to pass through the evaporator fins and help boil off the gas from the TX valve.
(M) Check Engine Light ("Malfunction Indicator Light" or "Check Engine") will illuminate during engine operation if this Diagnostic Trouble Code was recorded (depending if required by CARB and/or EPA). MIL is displayed as an engine icon on the instrument cluster.
Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit
Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time.
Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (medium leak)
A 0.040 leak has been detected in the evaporative system. (A faulty gas cap may cause this code). Also see TSB 25-001-02A. Note: The respective Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual will direct the technician to determine if the vehicle evaporative system has an external system leak. Examples of some external system leaks are: a loose gas cap, a disconnected evaporative system hose, or a loose hose connection. Remember that the evaporative system may also have an internal system leak. This internal leak may be caused by an intermittent or permanently stuck open Duty Cycle Purge (DCP) valve. This leak source is considered to be internal because any escaping emissions enter into the engine system and not directly into the atmosphere, unlike an external leak. An internal leak may cause one of the above DTC?s. Possible causes of a stuck open (intermittent or permanent) DCP valve are: 1. Corrosion due to system moisture or possible water intrusion into the system.
Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (large leak)
A large leak has been detected in the evaporative system. See TSB 25-001-02. Also, possible faulty or loose gas cap. Note: The respective Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual will direct the technician to determine if the vehicle evaporative system has an external system leak. Examples of some external system leaks are: a loose gas cap, a disconnected evaporative system hose, or a loose hose connection. Remember that the evaporative system may also have an internal system leak. This internal leak may be caused by an intermittent or permanently stuck open Duty Cycle Purge (DCP) valve. This leak source is considered to be internal because any escaping emissions enter into the engine system and not directly into the atmosphere, unlike an external leak. An internal leak may cause one of the above DTC?s. Possible causes of a stuck open (intermittent or permanent) DCP valve are: 1. Corrosion due to system moisture or possible water intrusion into the system.
It could be that there was more than one leak and the dealer found only one. The AC system has two pressure switches to protect the compressor from damage---a low press. switch cuts off the compressor when there is not enough refrigerant in the system, the high switch cuts off when pressures get so high they could blow out the seals. Both are a result of a leak--refrigerant leaks out and air can leak in. Air will compress and when it does, it gets hot--so no cooling, and pressures go way up. So the compressor may have been stopped by those protective switches.
Of course, there could be a bad relay or other circuit malfunction.
Another possibility is that the compressor sat too long before being repaired (but we are talking about weeks going by here, not days). The air and moisture (humidity) that leaks into the system during this time creates acids that will attack the metal reed valves in the compressor. On restart, the damaged metal valves eat themselves in short order. If this is the case, the compressor ran until it seized and will need to be replaced. This particular problem is impossible to diagnose. So the dealer may have done his best.
your heater core is leaking, need to replace it or u can put a hose connector to by-pass heater, this is done for temporary repair only. under hood look for two coolant hoses that go into firewall of veh. and install a hose connector that is same outside diameter of the inside of hoses & install two clamps to keep pressure from coming out.
That is a problem in the evaporative emission control system.
Could be anything causing it
Clogged filter in the charcoal canister
A leak in one of the vacuum lines
The purge valve not working,,,etc.
The best thing is to take it and have it checked out, they might have to do a smoke test to find the problem.
All they do is inject smoke into the system, if there is a leak the smoke will come out of it. All it takes is a pin hole in these emission systems to screw it all up.
P0446 Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit.
The following are descriptions of all Evaporative possible codes:
P0441 Evaporative Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow P0442 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (small leak) P0443 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit P0444 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open P0445 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted P0446 Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit P0447 Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit Open P0448 Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit Shorted P0449 Evaporative Emission System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit P0450 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch P0451 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch Range/Performance P0452 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch Low P0453 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch High P0454 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch Intermittent P0455 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (large leak) P0456 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (very small leak) P0457 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (fuel cap loose/off) P0458 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Low P0459 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit High
At least the cap isn't loose for the gas tank.
I would clear the code with an OBD-II Scanner 'erase code' button, and see how long it takes for it to come back.
Are you sure that it is coolant? The AC system evaporator/core does condensate and it is drained off from the core plenum through a tube that runs out under the passenger side of the fire wall and it can very much resemble a coolant leak (except that it is clear water from condensation and not coolant) and that is a normal condition.
However if it is actually coolant leaking it should not be intermittent and only leak when the AC is operating, and if it does have a coolant leak it should leak any time that the cooling system is pressurized.
Have you actually confirmed that there is a coolant leak and it is not just water from condensation, let me know if the fluid is actually coolant and the only thing that it would most likely be is a faulty radiator cap that is not holding pressure, and when the AC is operating it will cause the cooling system to work harder to cool the engine, and the radiator cap might not be able to handle the extra few pounds of pressure put on it by the AC system.
A BAD CAP ON TOP OFF YOUR COOLANT TANK WILL ALLOW THE COOLANT TO SLOWLY EVAPORATE OR BOIL OUT OF THE SYSTEM. COOLING SYSTEMS NEED TO KEEP A CERTAIN PRESSURE TO COOL OVER 212 DEGREES OR EVAPORATION TAKES PLACE JUST LIKE WATER