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Re: how to remove the altinater with the limited amount...
The power steering pump must come off .the tensioner pulley and bracket must come off.the wiper linkage on the left side 2 bolts.i like to take motor mounts bolts off the front were the dog bones are while in park after the bolts are out and the dog bones are lifted up i rock the van forward until the motor comes forward the put on emergency brake with my feet.this holds the motor forward and helps with room.ive done two in the last 3 weeks at my full time job.
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You may not have remove the bolt completely to get the alternator out. Try removing the alternator with the bolt out as far as it will go, or, remove the bracket that the bolt is in. Failing that, try sticking a 2 by 4 down between the engine and the fender wall and pry against something strong on the engine. It will flex a certain amount on the rubber motor mounts and may allow enough room to sneak the bolt out.
remove the tire
Remove the caliper- two bolts in back, could be torx or allen
remove the bracket that holds the caliper- two bolts in back
remove the rotor, with hammer if nessissary
remove the big nut holding the shaft in the middle of bearing
there are three or four bolts that are in back that hold the bearing on the spindle remove these
use a screw driver and chisel to pry the bearing out of the spindle, you will have too beat on them so use an old screw driver. If the new bearing comes with the hub, then you can beat on the hub and knock it out. be careful because your limited on space and it is easy to hit something that you don't want to hit. If the new bearing doesn't come with the hub, you will have to have it pressed out and in. about twenty bucks at a garage.
If so equipped, unfasten the inside hood release handle.
Remove the steering wheel and the lower steering column cover.
Remove the glove box, switch panel and console.
Fig. 1: Loosen the retaining nut to unfasten the inside hood release handle
Fig. 2: If necessary, remove the dash mounted speaker covers to access hidden instrument panel bolts
Fig. 3: Due to space limitations, some bolts are best removed with an open end or box wrench
Fig. 4: Other bolts are easily removed with a socket
Remove the meter (gauge) hood, heater control panel mounting screws and separate the heater controls from the instrument panel frame. Remove the combination meter.
Remove the air duct(s) and the steering shaft mounting bracket bolts. Allow the column to lower.
Disconnect and label the meter wiring. Unfasten the mounting bolts and remove the crash pad and instrument panel.
Fig. 5: Some of the instrument panel attaching bolts are hidden behind removable trim covers or plugs. Carefully pry off the cover . . .
Fig. 6: . . . then remove the bolts with a socket
Fig. 7: The glove box must be removed to unfasten some of the instrument panel retaining bolts
Fig. 8: Other retaining bolts are accessible with the meter hood and combination meter removed
Position and fasten the crash pad and instrument panel, being careful to route the wiring correctly. Attach the meter wiring to its appropriate connections.
Raise the steering column to its normal operating position and install the steering shaft mounting bracket bolts. Connect the air ducts.
Install the combination meter. Install the heater controls into the instrument panel frame with the mounting screws. Attach the meter hood.
Install the console, switch panel and glove box.
Install the steering wheel column cover and steering wheel.
If applicable, attach the inside hood release handle.
The cylinder head should be cleaned and inspected prior to installation.
Lightly oil all bolt and stud bolt threads before installation.
Clean all gasket mating surfaces thoroughly.
Install a new head gasket on the cylinder block. WARNING Always use new cylinder head bolts when installing the cylinder head or damage to the engine may occur.
Install the cylinder head on the cylinder block.
Tighten the cylinder head bolts in reverse of the removal sequence. Tighten the 2004 cylinder head bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Tighten an additional 70°, plus 70°, plus another 50°. Tighten 2005 bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Tighten an additional 60°, plus 60°, plus another 10°.
Install the right engine mount. Tighten the engine mount attaching bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Install or connect the following:
Intake manifold support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Surge tank coolant hose
Heater hose to cylinder head
Fuel feed line at the fuel rail
All vacuum hoses
Rear timing belt cover
Timing belt tensioner. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Idler pulley. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Intake and exhaust camshaft gears. Tighten the bolts to 49 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
Apply a small amount of gasket sealant to the corners of the front camshaft caps and the top of the rear camshaft cover-to-cylinder head seal.
Install the valve cover using a new gasket
Align the timing marks on the camshaft gears.
Align the mark on the crankshaft gear with the notch at the bottom of the rear timing belt cover.
Install the timing belt and rotate the water pump clockwise to apply tension to the timing belt.
Tighten the water pump bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Adjust the timing belt tension.
Install or connect the following:
Spark plug wires
Upper and lower timing belt coversCrankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm), plus an additional 30°, then another 15°.
Rotate the tensioner and remove the belt from around the alternator pulley
Detach the 2 connectors from the alternator
Slide the boot up to access the battery cable on the rear of the alternator
Remove the nut retaining the battery cable and . . .
. . . remove the battery cable from the post on the rear of the alternator
Remove the three alternator rear mounting bolts
Remove the two front alternator mounting bolts
Remove the alternator from the engine by carefully lifting it up and out of the engine compartment
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Tag and disconnect the wiring connectors from the rear (or side) of the alternator. To disconnect push-on type terminals, depress the lock tab and pull straight off.
On 3.8L and 4.6L engines, rotate the automatic tensioner away from the drive belt and disengage the drive belt from the alternator pulley. Remove the alternator brace.
On 3.8L engines, remove the alternator pivot bolts, top and bottom and remove the alternator.
On 5.0L engines, loosen the alternator pivot bolt and remove the adjusting bolt. Disengage the drive belt from the alternator pulley.
On 3.8L and 5.0L engines, remove the alternator pivot bolt and the alternator. On 4.6L engines, remove the alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. On 4.6L engines, tighten the alternator mounting bolts to 15–22 ft. lbs. (20–30 Nm) and the alternator brace bolts to 70–106 inch lbs. (8–12 Nm). In addition, on 5.0L engines, adjust the drive belt tension
very very difficult i feel for ya. id try a undersize socket and extension use hammer to drive on bolt head or if at all possible vise grips. also attempt a 6 point box end wrench if it will fit. last resort vise grips. if all else fails left handed drill bits and screw extractor
Thermostat replacement on 97 cutlass supreme 3.1 liter: First thing I can tell you is give yourself plenty of time to do this simple job. Its not really difficult but can be especially trying if your time is limited. Change the thermostat when the engine is cold. Drain about 3 quarts of coolant from the cooling systen and save it. Remove the air intake hose from the filter canister to the throttle body.( 2 clamps ) Remove the throttle cable and cruise cables by gently prying them off the throttle body butterfly arm. Remove the spring between the throttle body arm and the throttle cable bracket. Remove the (10mm nut) from the rear of the bracket. ( its on a stud used where the egr tubing attaches ) Remove the 2 8mm head bolts from the bracket near the front where it attaches to the throttle body. Remove the 13mm nut (using a socket) from the bottom of the throttle bracket attaching it to the manifold. As I remember there possibly is another bolt near and to the rear there also. Remove the clamp holding the fuel lines to this bracket. You shuld now be able to remove the throttle bracket and set it aside while getting to the thermostat. There are 2 bolts holding the thermostat housing in place. The easy one is forward top and can be reached with a short socket (13mm) and wobble extention or universal joint. The trying one is to the rear and lower. There is very limited space between the 13mm bolt head and the exhaust crossover pipe. The bolt is very trying to remove and get started again. Fortunatly the lower mounting hole of the thermostat housing is usually slotted. Using a 12 point 13mm box wrench, (or better yet if you have one) a 13mm crowfoot, back out this bolt as far as you can without removing it.( 1/12th of turn at a time ) With some aggravation and manuvering the housing will come off and out with the thermostat staying in the manifold. If the thermostat tries to come out with the housing the housing can't be removed due to space limitations. Use a screwdriver or simular small tool to hold the thermostat in the manifold cavity until the housing is free. Now the thermostat and rubber sealing ring will come out. The rubber ring usually comes with a new thermostat so no gasket is requred. As ALL the manuals read " REVERSE PROCEEDURE TO INSTALL "
The idler pully can be removed without removing the engine. I have replaced mine in my 97 SL2. As to the bolt breaking off, that is strange. I assume that if the bolt broke off, then the idler pully also fell off. If I remember, the space is somewhat limited, so getting a removal tool in there could be very difficult, especially if the bolt is flush with the mounting hole. That doesn't sound like a fun project. If bolt protrudes, maybe you can get some vise-grips on it and turn it out.
if you get a 3/8 in socket wrench there is a square on the belt tensioner u can insert the scoket wrench into you will need a fairly long pipe to help with leverage then pull the wrench up and you will see the tensioner take off the tension off the belt so u can remove the belt but do not forget how the belt is routed this is the fun part ... autozone and kragen have special tools that you can rent to get the other bolts off of the alternator