I have removed the wheel. I have removed the brake assembly. I have removed the rotor. I have pounded out the broken studs. I have pounded loose the remaining studs but are unable to remove them due to clearance issues. I have removed the hub assembly bolts that hold the stems. But the hub will not budge. How do I remove the hub to remove the remaing studs?
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Re: Broken Lug Studs
You have to remove the hub to remove the bolts, if they won't come out by rotating the hub.
To remove the hub, take the cap off at the center of the hub (the cap would be poking you a the center of the hub, and is about 2 inches in diameter.
There should be a cotter key or something preventing the spindle nut from turning. Remove it. If there is a cover over the spindle nut, remove it. Take the spindle nut off. Pull lightly on the hub, and it will come off. Watch for the front bearing to pop out.
To reassemble, put hub back on spindle, put bearing and washer against bearing, thread on spindle nut and tighten while rotating hub. Back off 1/2 to 1 flat add cover (if used) and install cotter key.
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They are pressed in from the backside of the wheel hub that the studs stick out from. And not like needing a heavy press- once you get the old studs driven out (usually works with a hammer or small mallet), you can easily draw the new studs right into a snug fit by using the lug nuts, the new ones you just bought along with the 5 new studs, available at most any parts store.
See it's not the lug nuts that are broken, those nuts tighten the tire to the hub by the lug nut studs that the tire fits over. It is the studs themselves that are breaking off. This is common enough that parts stores carry replacements. A chevy dealership might have just your size in stock, if you don't mind paying extra high dealership charges, but it might not be that much for these rather inexpensive items. In a lot of cases, the studs can be removed from the hub as it sits, but there are cases where the hub must be removed from the vehicle for stud replacement. You can eyeball it and pretty much tell if the studs can be removed easily, after you take the wheel (tire) off. For any work on the vehicle, don't rely on the jack. Use blocks or jack-stands always.
You should be able to remove the tire and wheel assembly and have the rotor exposed. Remove the two bolts that secure the brake caliber and gently slide the caliper assembly off the rotor. The rotor should then come off. The broken wheel studs can be punched out with a 5 pound hand sledge and a good drift pin. Just install the new wheel studs the same way from the back side.
remove wheel, brake assembly & rotor. rotate to where the broken stud is in the opening where the brake assembly was. drive the broken stud out of the hub flange. then install the new stud by stacking washers on the new stud and tighten the lug till it pulls the new studs flange tight against the back side of the hub. remove lug and washers , reassemble .
You do not remove the wheel hub flange, just follow the procedure that I replied to earlier, and this is the procedure if you do not want to obtain a special tool for pressing the lug studs;
First you will have to pound the broken lug studs out of the wheel hub, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.
1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.
2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down to take up the slack.
3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.
Be sure that the amount of flat washers used will make up for any non-threaded part of the lug stud that might stick out past the wheel hub preventing the lug nut from pulling the lug stud all the way through the wheel hub, and basically you do not want the lug nut to run out of threads before it can pull the lug stud flush with the wheel hub.
Yeah , it's a fairly simple repair, All the wheel studs must be replaced and lug nuts also.Closely examine the wheel or get competent tyre replacement company to double check for damage ! Remove the brake disc caliper and brake disc itself (usually 2 cross head screws) , tap off (gently) it may be stuck thru corrosion / rust etc , Broken studs can be knocked out(towards drive shaft ) of the hub assy with a suitable drift and hammer (splined into hub) . The studs are a servicable replacement part. Check all other wheel nuts as this is usually a result from poor fixing or wheel replacement recently .. Good luck
Before we get to putting it the Belt back on... Look at the alignment of the Pulleys. Most times the Tensioner or Idle Pulley are "canted" - meaning pitched or leaning forward, which causes the belt to "run off" the pulley - throwing the belt. With the Belt off: check side-to side play for each one of the Pulleys by hand, especially for the Tensioner and Idle Pulleys. There should not be any side-to side play. If there is any other Pulleys that are canted - check if they are properly tightened. A new belt should not have come off on it's own without some other problem.
GENERAL/Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with a Tensioner: A. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link) B. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move. C. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys. D. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with Tensioners: a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on. b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right. c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley. d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley. e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Regarding the Strip Lug -Studs. Is this on the wheels with Rotors (Disc) or Drums? If the tire was not properly mounted, or the Lug Nuts were not properly Torqued; this will cause the Lug Studs (bolts) to be stripped. With the vehicle raised and properly supported by jack stands: For Rotors: Remove the Tire, Brakes (Calipers/Pads) and Rotor, exposing the Wheel Hub (Bearing) Assembly with the Studs fully exposed. Rotate the Wheel Hub to a location where the Lug Studs can be clearly removed FROM THE REAR OF THE WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY. Using a impact hammer or mini sledge hammer: Hammer the Lug Studs back thru the Wheel Hub Assembly. Remove the loosened Lug Studs.
For Drums: Raise, support, remove the Tires. Remove the Drums off the Wheel Assembly. Using a impact hammer or mini sledge hammer: Hammer the Lugs back into the drum, removing from inside the Drum
Purchase the new, correct size and length Lug Studs and new Lug Nuts. If the Studs were stripped, most like the Nuts are too. To reinstall the Lug Studs: Purchase an additional two (2) Lug Nut that fits that Lug Stud. Also purchase several Large Heavy Duty Washers that can fit on the the Lug Studs.
Place the Lug Stud back into the Wheel Assembly from the Rear (Rotors) or from inside (Drums). Use High Temp Grease for the area of the Lug Stud Splines that have to be "drawn" into the Wheel Assembly (with Rotors) or into the Drum. After the Lug Studs are "IN" as far as they will go: on the outside place at least two (2) of the Washers on Lug Studs. Use a Lug Nut and tighten as far as possible down-on the Lug Stud as possible. Next: Using an Impact Wrench tighten that Lug Nut down/on, drawing the Lug Stud into the Wheel Assembly/Drum. Check the rear of/inside the Wheel Hub Assembly/Drum. The Heads of the Lug Studs should be firmly against the Wheel Assembly/Drum. If you do not have a Impact Wrench - use at least a 24-in Breaker Bar and Tighten the Lug Nut on, drawing the Lug Stud into the Wheel Hub Assembly/Drum. This takes longer and alot more work, compared to 10-seconds using the Impact Wrench. Repeat as necessary.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!
I assume that you are referring to the wheel studs and if so you will have to remove the wheel, the brake caliper, the brake caliper stand and the brake rotor. Drive the old stud out with a hammer. Make sure you purchase new lug nuts with the studs. If they are the acorn style, buy one that is not to help with installation. Slide the new stud in the hole from the rear of the flange, install some washers for clearance of the stud shoulder. Install the non acorn style lug nut on the stud backwards. Using a impact gun, pull the stud through. Remove the backwards lug nut and washers.
Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front
1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Hub Bolt
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
Remove disc brake caliper (2B120), and front disc brake rotor (1125). Refer to Section 06-03 .
Brake Shoe and Lining
Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120), front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386). ( I think it is a T 40 torx bit you need)
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125). Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
Position disc brake caliper out of the way and support with wire to avoid damaging the disc brake caliper and front brake hose (2078).
Remove outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
Remove inner brake shoe and lining assembly.
Position lug bolt (1107) to clear front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove lug bolt from wheel hub (1104).
Install lug bolt into wheel hub.
Using a lug nut (1012), seat wheel hub bolt into wheel hub.
Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03 .
Install wheel and tire assembly. Tighten lug nut to 115-142Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
1. get new studs and nuts 2.remove wheel 3. remove caliper at bracket to spindle connection(2 18mm bolts?)you may need to remove caliper from bracket,but not always nessacery. Or remove drum,then to #5 4.remove rotor,will need a hammer, tap inbetween studs dont wreck good studs and see if new studs can be installed without removing parking brake shoes. If there is no clearance to get new stud in you will need to remove shoes. 5.Pound out old studs place new stud in hole use a washer on outside then put a nut on and tighten to install stud, A air gun or some type of impact tool will be very helpful. Check to see that stud has enough threds to pull stud all the way thru ,add more washers if nessecary dont let the nut run out of threds it will **** to get back off and wreck new stud. 6. if you dont have air gun or feel comfertable removing brakes bring it to a reputable garage, shouldnt cost more than $70+ parts to get all new studs put in on one wheel.