Question about 2002 Audi TT

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Problems with battery

I have changed my battery twice due to the car not starting - but the problem persists. However while driving with my lights on - there is no loss of power.

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You may have a current draw. it means when ignition is off someload drainning the battery. to check this disconnect the negative and with ign off install an ampmeter between battery terminal and post. it shoul not read more than 0.4 amp. if it does you have a draw. rate me. good luck

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

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Two strong possibilities:

One is that the alternator isn't charging the battery. Stick a voltmeter across the battery while the engine is running. If it's showing less than 13-and-a-bit volts, you need to get your alternator seen to. (try this shortly after you've started the engine, and be careful not to rev the engine before taking your meadurement - there are some interesting alternator faults where it won't kick in until it's been spun at speeds above idle, but then appears to work perfectly)

The other is that something isn't switching off properly and is flattening the battery while it is parked. I once had a courtesy light hidden away in a glove box that got stuck on and caused me grief for weeks before I finally spotted it one dark night. You might try disconnecting the battery negative (with the engine stopped) and putting a multimeter on "amps" between the removed negative and it's terminal. View anything over (say) 100 mA with suspicion. You could then try to narrow it down by pulling fuses to see what makes the current go away.

A.

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

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Temporary fix until you find someone who knows.
When you pull into your place to park the car for the night, or whatever, go ahead and unhook the battery. Re-hook up the battery when you are ready to drive it again. That will at least keep you from not driving it at all.

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"It won't do anything" means that there are no dash lights, no buzzers, nothing?
Any car has very slight electrical drains when it is shut off. For one thing, the clock is running, but there are a number of other tiny loads as well. With a good battery, you should be able to park a car for six months to a year and still start it.
However, if you start the car several times without running it long enough to recharge the battery, or if the drain is larger than it should be due to electrical problems or aftermarket accessories, you can get a failure to start.
Unfortunately, maintanence-free batteries don't tolerate being run completely dead very well, and many owners have unhappily found that draining an older battery once or twice was the last straw that ended their battery's life.
I suggest that you borrow a charger or a set of jumper cables to start the car, and drive it 30 minutes or so to fully charge the battery. If you have more problems, get the battery load tested at a shop that sells batteries to see if it is still OK.

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Alternator and electrical problems ive changed alternator twice,now clicking noise under dash bat. light comes on and dash lights flicker


check all battey connections and system grounds. Check that the battery has 12v and holds properly when load tested. To check charging system, don't disconnect any battery leads...put a volt meter across the battery. when running, you should have at least 12.9v and volts should not drop. (usual reading is generally at or near 13) at idle with all accessories on voltage should be close to that as well. voltage should not exceed 14.Also make sure that drive belt is not slipping.

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Service light can be due to misfiring in one cylinder, discharged battery, or faulty O2 sensor. Start from battery (you can try jump start) to distributor cap/wiring/spurk plugs/alternator. Also check fuel lines (fuel injectrors, filter, pump). If no help check O2 sensor and coolant temperature sensor.
Please kinly let me know if you would need more info
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First Check the Fuel Filter and the Belt Tension. Let me know what you Find.

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Service engine soon light is on constantly.


ALTENATOR AND BELT PROBLEMS: I would assume that someone has c hecked the battery. A dead cell will shorten the life of the alternator..If the plug( at the alternator) is the least bit shakey, replace it. Check all grounds, engine to firewall, engine to frame, engine to battery, frame to radiator support, and the alternator plug, again.
CAR STALLS/DIES/LACK OF POWER: Have your mechanic inspect and clean the throttle body and the idle control motor. When these parts get dirty with carbon and debris they will cause erratic idle and dying at stops and low speed complaints.
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THE ALTENATOR WHICH SUPPLIES THE CAR THE ELECTRICAL POWER; IF WORN WILL CAUSE PROBLEMS IN ANYTHING ELECTRICAL IN YOUR CAR, INCLUDING THE MOTOR

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