I need help With Putting the Piston Back into the Caliper.
I have a 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, I was changing my Rear Brake pads. The piston is suppose to turn back into the Caliper, But I went the wrong way and the Piston Came out. Also there is a spring behind the piston. I'm having trouble with lining my my piston up with the threaded bolt inside the Caliper.. Please I need your Help
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The pistons in these calipers must be rotated as they are threaded back into the caliper body to make them retract.
You will see two small notches in the face of the piston, this is for the tool to rotate it back. This tool cost about $8 at any parts house and fits on the end of your 3/8 extension, it fits several different makes of calipers (looks like a small box with pins on it).
You have to turn (rotate) the piston to get it to go back. A c-clamp will not work and it may damage the piston. I have a 1995 and I just replaced the pads on the rear this past summer. I did what you did and tried the c-clamp and it didn't work. I then read up on it and you have to turn the piston. I did this with some needle-nosed pliers and put them into the valleys on the piston to turn it. I can't remember which direction I turned the piston. I think it was clockwise, but I am not sure.
Special tool is a 1" cube with tabs on each side that fits into indentations on the brake piston and can be purchased for $10-12 @ most discount parts stores. Use 3/8" ratchet with short extension and 'special tool to carefully turn piston onto internal hand brake screw. Take care to not tear dust boot. When piston is fully collapsed, make sure to align piston indentations perpendicular to brake pad as there are bumps on pad that fit into them. Also while screwing in piston either remove about 2/3 of brake fluid in master cylinder and refil afterwords or open the bleeder valve on brake piston assembly. Bleed if necessary.
Remove about 2⁄3 of the brake fluid from the reservoir with a clean syringe or baster type utensil.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Matchmark the relationship of the wheel to the axle flange. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Reinstall two lug nuts to retain the rotor.
Unfasten the bolt and washer attaching the cable support bracket to the caliper body assembly. It is not necessary to disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper parking brake lever or disconnect the brake hose unless the caliper is to be completely removed from the vehicle. Freeing the cable support bracket allows enough flexibility in the cable to pivot the caliper up and down and remove the shoe and lining.
Remove the sleeve bolt.
Pivot the caliper body assembly up. Do not completely remove the caliper assembly body.
Remove the outboard and inboard shoe and linings (pads) from the caliper support.
Remove the two pad clips from the caliper support.
Bottom the piston assembly into the caliper bore. Use a suitable spanner-type tool in the piston slot to turn the piston assembly and thread it into the caliper body assembly.
After bottoming the piston, lift the inner edge of the boot next to the piston assembly and press out any trapped air. The boot must lie flat. Make sure the slots in the end of the piston are positioned correctly before pivoting the caliper body assembly down over the shoe and lining in the caliper support. Use a suitable spanner-type tool in the piston slots to turn the piston as necessary.
NOTE: Whenever installing new pads, install new pad clips. These should be provided in the disc pad kit.
Install the two pad clips in the caliper support.
Install the outboard and inboard shoe and lining in the caliper support. The wear sensor is on the outboard pad. The sensor is positioned downward at the leading edge of the rotor during forward wheel rotation. Hold the metal shoe edge against the spring end of the clips in the caliper support. Push the shoe in toward the hub, bending the spring ends slightly, and engage the shoe notches with the support abutments.
Pivot the caliper body assembly down over the shoe and lining assembly. Be careful not to damage the piston boot on the inboard. Compress the sleeve boot by hand as the caliper body moves into position to prevent boot damage.
After the caliper body is in position, recheck the installation of the pad clips. If necessary, use a small prytool to re-seat or center the pad clips on the support abutments.
Install the sleeve bolt and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Install the cable support bracket (with the cable attached) with the bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
Remove the two lug nuts retaining the rotor.
Install the wheel and tire assembly, aligning the marks made during removal.
Carefully lower the vehicle, then firmly depress the brake pedal 3 times to seat the pads against the rotors.
you have the wrong brake pads they are too fat,similar with VW golfs ,different manufacturers of brakes used during build run.better still recycle this beast and turn it into 3 smaller cars and save the planet