Question about 1999 Chevrolet Blazer
Go under your vehicle after you have jacked it up and supported it on jack stands.
Locate the hydraulic slave cylinder, if it is an external slave cylinder then you can bleed it without too much difficulty.
If it is an external slave cylinder, locate the bleed nipple on the side of the slave cylinder,,attach a piece of rubber hose to the bleed nipple.
Then take a small clean jar or bottle and fill it to one quarter full of brake fluid. Dot3 usually.
Then put the free end of the hose into the bottle so that it is submerged under the fluid level.(it is important that you keep it submerged) then take an appropriate size wrench and loosen off the bleed nipple a quarter turn, or enough to get some flow.
Then make sure that the Fluid reservoir is kept topped up. while you slowly pump your clutch pedal,,then after doing this, leave the system alone for an hour or so(your choice) and let any remaining air bubbles escape from the line.
After you have done all this,,tighten up the bleed nipple, remove the rubber hose,,and save the contents of the jar for later use.(remember, brake fluid must be left to stand 24 hours after being removed from a closed system before re-use) once this is all done,,you should be good to go.
Posted on Jan 29, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 21, 2014 | 2001 Mitsubishi Montero
1. Inspect and fill clutch master cylinder reservoir with appropriate hydraulic oil. You will want to check this during the bleeding process making sure it doesn't run out or you will get air into the system again. Leave cap off of reservoir.
2. Have your friend camp in the drivers seat to push in and let out the clutch pedal when you tell him to.
3. During this procedure DO NOT allow your friend to "pump" the clutch pedal.
4. You will be opening and closing the bleed screw on the slave cylinder as instructed below. CAUTION: During this procedure protect your eyes from squirting brake fluid by using a small hose and a soda bottle. Brake fluid is nasty stuff so wear gloves.
5. (Helper) Press clutch pedal in fully and hold.
6. (You) Open the bleed screw to allow fluid to escape.
7. (You) Close bleed screw quickly.
8. (Helper) Release pedal completely
9. (You) Top off fluid in reservoir. Leave cap off of reservoir.
10. Repeat steps #6 - #9 no less than 10 times before going to #12 below. NO PUMPING!
11. Now you will want to purge the slave cylinder of any air bubbles that might be trapped inside of it.
12. Grab the clutch fork and push towards the slave cylinder pushing the rod all of the way into the slave cylinder as far as it will go AND HOLD it in.
13. (You) open bleed valve and command helper to push the clutch down slowly purging any air that was trapped in the slave cylinder
14. (Helper) As soon as the pedal hits the floor command your bleeder monkey to close the valve before you let the pedal return from the floor.
15. Repeat steps #6 - #9 one last time
Dec 03, 2013 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Jun 30, 2011 | 1991 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer
1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.
2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.
3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...
4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.
5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.
6) Close the bleeder valve.
7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.
8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.
9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.
10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.
11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.
12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.
Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.
May 20, 2011 | 1989 Ford F 150
Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.
1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).
2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.
3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.
4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving. If the Slave cylinder does not have a bleed nipple the union nut that attaches the fluid pipe can be used for bleeding. However, it is a bit harder to observe when all air is purged and of course very messy as fluid will drip everywhere.
Oct 28, 2010 | 1998 Plymouth Neon
Oct 13, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
Dec 20, 2009 | 2004 Isuzu Rodeo
Dec 08, 2008 | 2001 Dodge Neon
82 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: