If U connect heaterpipes together with a piece of pipe the engine runs at the correct temp. The radiator is new as is water pump,thermostat & heater control valve.The air return pipes from the head & radiator are clear, When heater pipes are connected the block boils,after a few miles, heater in car is hot, temp gauge shows hot,remove cap surge of water level goes down, temp drops to normal on gauge engine fan stops, heater blows cold until U start to drive again. Heater blows hot temp goes up fan cuts in Heater blows cold, remove cap pipes to rad are quite cold compared to heater pipes,tend to think air trapped in heater radiator how do U solve this problem.
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Re: engine overheats when heater pipes connected
I think you could be right about there being air trapped in the system. Or the heater core(radiator) is plugged. Either way you need a pressurized radiator coolant pump to put the coolant in without air being trapped. Although,i have seen it done by jacking the vehicle up high enough that the radiator was now higher than the heater core level, and then the coolant was put in. But this is dangerous to try.
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\look at the passenger side rear fire wall inside your engine compartment you will see a big plastic heater control valve that all the hoses front and rear heater hoses hook up to that one plastic valve find the two hoses that lead off towards the rear of the body of your suburban ten take tem off and buy a short piece of 5/8 or 3/4 hose and connect those two empty nipples together and make sure you hose clamp them together tightly so they dont leak and overheat your truck ok
Get a piece of pipe that is the same size as the heater core hoses. Remove the hoses from the heater core, normally near the rear of the engine compartment 9on passenger side. Connect the 2 hoses together with the pipe as the "patch". Secure with clamps.
The probable reason for engine stalling can be overheating.
The engine can be overheated due to many reasons and their
remedies are listed below:
Insufficient coolant and water in radiator -
Refill the coolant and water in reservoir
Radiator fan not working as needed - Loose
connections, faulty fan
Damaged hoses and pipes - Replace hoses and
Clogged pipes - Clean them
Fill the rad or overflow bottle right to the top and run the engine with no cap on,if you see a constant flow of bubbles your head gasket is leaking or you have a crack somewhere in the cooling system.
try the scrapyard and look at one in their ,or ask a local owner that is just parking up in a supermarket and look at theirs .lots of different ways to overcome this problem but if the pipe has beeen disconnected its because the heater matrix is no doubt leaking
See Figure 7 When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL® (orange colored, silicate free) coolant meeting GM specifications. On these vehicles, if silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner; at 30,000 milee or 24 months.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Properly drain and recover the coolant to a level below the thermostat.
Unfasten the cover-to-outlet pipe bolt, which is accessible through the exhaust manifold runners.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Disconnect the radiator and heater hoses from the outlet pipe.
Unfasten the outlet pipe-to-oil pan bolt and the cover-to-outlet pipe bolts.
Remove the thermostat, then clean the old gasket material from the mating surfaces.
Fig. Fig. 7: Thermostat removal and installation-2.3L and 2.4L engines
Position the thermostat in ite correct location, then install the cover-to-outlet pipe bolt. Tighten the bolt to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
Install the outlet pipe-to-oil pan bolt. Tighten the pipe-to-oil pan bolt to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) and the pipe-to-transaxle bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
Connect the radiator and heater hoses to the outlet pipe.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Install the cover-to-outlet pipe bolt through the exhaust manifold runner.
Properly fill the cooling system, then connect the negative battery cable.
Actually it does make sense. All you need to bypass the heater core is a section of pipe that can be used to connect the Heater core Supply and return lines together. All they actually do is make a loop using the heater core as the turnaround. This is normally 5/8 hose and any metal pipe section can be used as long as the hose fits on it and you can put a water clamp on it to hold it in place. In fact, if you have a control valve on your heater core line going into a piece of hose connected to the Firewall you can disconnect that and use it to connect the two lines together in a pinch. radiator flush kits come with a piece that attaches to these lines for flushing the system. Your supposed to cut the line and put this part in between the two pieces but you can just as easily disconnect the lines from the firewall and attach them with this piece. A Yard water hose slicing kit, metal, would work just as well as long as you have to correct size. Good Luck.
Remove both raidiator hoses and try flushing the the radiator matrix out with fresh water refit them and run the car topping up the coolant about half a litre every minute, do this with the small pipe at the resovoir disconnected to allow it to bleed up properly,once your sure all the air is out the system put the cap and the pipe on and let it heat up, you now want to find the feed pipe to your heater matrix and disconnect it to make sure the matrix is recieving a warm and free flowing supply of water if so its your heater matrix thats blocked replace it if not then switch the engine off and locate the feed to your water pump and the pipe leaving the water pump.squeeze the pipe leaving the water pump together as hard as possible and get someone to start the engine.The flow from the water pump should push your hand apart or at least move it with some force, if not then strip and inspect the pump replace as req.Failing this then its check the thermostats time( if fitted ) Remove them submerse them in an open kettle with a thermostat and check which temp that they open at (usually around 85 deg centigrade)replace as req.If all of this is working and i doubt that you will get this far without finding something then its rip all the pipes off and check for blockages time, great fun i think not but i hope this was helpful and wish you the best of luck! b sure to give me a vote if this is helpful,thanks
You will need a piece of pipe about 2" to 3"long that will fit
inside the diameter of the two heater hoses at the firewall and two hose
Disconnect the two hoses at the firewall;
Slip a clamp on each hose;
Slip the piece of pipe into both hose ends to connect the two
Install and tighten clamps on each end of hoses over pipe. (You
might want to put a little grease on the pipe for easier removal when
you are ready to install new core.Start engine and check for leaks at
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You will need a piece of pipe about 2" to 3"long that will fit inside the diameter of the two heater hoses at the firewall and two hose clamps. (1)disconnect the two hoses at the firewall; (2)slip a clamp on each hose;(3)slip the piece of pipe into both hose ends to connect the two hoses together; (4)install and tighten clamps on each end of hoses over pipe. (You might want to put a little grease on the pipe for easier removal when you are ready to install new core.) Start engine and check for leaks at the connections.