a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
no engine size (options) stated. so generic answers.
coolant drained (or 1/2 drained on some, time saver.... that...)
remove stat housing HOSE,. then the housing.
new gasket , sealant
wax side to water jackets side.
bleed hole up hill (aka. jiggle pin) same deal.
Remove the four front skid-plate bolts holding the front skid plate, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the skid plate.
Pull the plastic splash shield away from the vehicle, loosening the retaining clips. Remove the splash shield.
Place an oil drain container under the oil pan. Loosen the drain fitting with a wrench until oil drains from the pan. When oil is done draining, tighten the drain fitting.
Disconnect the electrical connections running to the starter motor. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts with a ratchet and socket, then remove the starter motor.
Remove the oxygen sensor socket from the exhaust pipe, using a wrench.
Remove the exhaust manifold bolts where the exhaust meets the manifold on both sides, using a ratchet and socket
Place an jack under the transmission to support it. Remove the pressure on the transmission crossmember.
Remove the bolts that hold the transmission crossmember in place, using a ratchet and socket. Then remove the crossmember. Place a jack stand under the transmission to keep the transmission from falling off the jack if hit. Once removed, the exhaust will hang down, allowing enough room to remove the oil pan.
Disconnect the oil level sensor and the nut retaining the transmission cooling lines, using a wrench.
Remove the oil pan bolts with a ratchet and socket, then remove the oil pan and gasket.
Clean the mounting surfaces of the new oil pan and engine block. Make sure what ever you use to clean the surfaces dosn't gouge the metal.
Place a coat of RTV (gasket) sealer on the engine block where the pan will meet the rear main cap.
Place the new gasket on the pan and push the new oil pan into place. Finger tighten the oil pan mounting bolts to hold it in place. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench to 18 ft-lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS! Doing so will cause the gasket to deform and create leaks!
Connect the oil level sensor and the nut retaining the transmission cooling lines, using a wrench.
Place the exhaust back into position and replace the transmission crossmember bolts and crossmember with a ratchet and socket.
Remove the jack supporting the transmission.
Connect the exhaust back to both sides of the manifold, tightening the bolts with a torque wrench to 20 ft-lbs.
Attach the oxygen sensor socket to the exhaust pipe with a wrench.
Replace the starter motor by installing the starter motor mounting bolts with a ratchet and socket. Connect the electrical connections to the starter motor that were disconnected during removal.
Push the retaining clips on the plastic splash shield into the appropriate retaining clip holes.
Replace the front skid plate by replacing the four front skid plate bolts with a ratchet and socket.
Fill the engine with 5 quarts of oil. Make sure to check the level on the dipstick to find the exact level when filling.
It's just some bolts holding the cover plate to the front pumpkin (differential). 10 maybe. You will need a cover plate gasket if you pull the cover plate. You can drain and fill it if you want and it will be fine. Being a mechanic I always like to pull the cover plate and spray the spider gears with some brake clean first then put the cover plate on and fill it up. Get's them gears squeaky clean. But a simple drain and fill is sufficient.
Your Jeep has limited slip diffs.The last time you had it serviced,is probably when the problem started.Think.Was it?What the problem is,,the wrong diff oil was put in.At slow speeds,the plates in the diffs are shuddering.You can get some additive called friction modifier additive and in each diff you need 2 fluid ounces of the stuff.Or change all the diff oils..
Once the additive or new oil is in,,drive the vehicle in very tight slow turns for about 5 mins.A shopping centre carpark is good.This helps spread the oil throughout the diffs and should very well fix the problem.the additive is the cheaper way to go and does work.Hope this helps you
You can usually get to it by removing the front grille. (just a few screws) I usually ignore the drain as after you get to them, half don't work. Fastest way of draining is to remove the lower hose from the radiator. It comes out fast so don't do it hot and have a catch pan there or you will make a mess. Most times you can get to it easily by removing the air filter box (two bolts inside bottom).
Yes it does have a plug to check level it will be one of two places a rubber plug on the back of the diff. plate towards the top or it will be on the passenger side of the vehicle up towards the top on the front side of the diff right above what looks like a metal fin should take a 3/8ths drive rachet to remove.