I need to remove the brake drum on a 1976 gmc sierra 25
The drum will not tap lose(after removing the tire) there are 8 bolts in the center of the lug nut plate, do those need to come off or is there a retaingnig bolt on the back side of the drum, or do i just need a bigger hammer?
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Re: i need to remove the brake drum on a 1976 gmc sierra...
1976 3/4 ton GMC Correct? I believe this is a Old Dana 60 rear Axel. So The Bolts in center you take Out , Smack the Center of the Axel to remove the AXEL SHAFT . Now what you see is nut LOCK RING & 1 more Nut. First Look for Steal Tabs Folded Over towards Outside on flat side of Large Nut. With Hammer & chisel Tap these TABS Over Flat 2-5 of then Remove Large Nut you can do this With hammer and chisel, as they are not Very Tight take off first nut that LOCKING TAB WASHER then the 2nd Nut and Drum is Free Bearings and All. REVERSE PROCEDURE FOR INSTALL Only First NUT after outer Bearing is WHEEL BEARING PRELOAD Tighten it down so as for it NOT to Have ANY Play or Movement and Keeping in Mind that You Need OIL Clearance It Should spin Very Easy But Have NO Moement check this with a LONG Prybar Placing the tip Under Tire and Pulling up on it to Listen And FEEL For LOOSENESSJust Snug that tire on with 2-3 Lugs this Preload is CRUCIAL Too tight 2 Blocks is when it will BURN those Bearings up and may LOCK up Wheel other than that Preload you Ues Silacone Sealant on SUPER CLEAN Surfaces of Exel & HUB Dont get it in Bolt Holes go around em. I Dont Have Books Or any referances here to go by that Go that Far Back so This Is Off the Cuff so if My Memory serves me well You ARE IN Buisness If Not Get A BIGGER HAMMER lol. But I Do think this will help you out just Fine Have A Good One Now and dont forget to rate me Please,
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Re: i need to remove the brake drum on a 1976 gmc sierra...
Soak it with generous amounts penetrating oil around the lugs and let it sit for a while and soak it again and hit it with a bigger hammer. There arent any hidden bolts they are just stubborn sometimes (most of the time).
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After the wheel and tire are removed, rare back with a big hammer and hit the brake drum on the corner, putting blaster ( Pentrating oil ) around the hub center and the studs, will help too. You may need to hit it very hard and many times. once moving and it still won't come off or it won't even turn, your going to have to release the brake, The parking brake must be off and it's possible that now you have it jacked up you wisely put the brake on, but it has to be off to remove the drum, ( choulk the wheels that are on the ground before releasing the brake) Some drums have 8MM threaded bolt holes in them that let you thread a bolt into the hole and as you tighten it the drum is pulled off, Not all drums have these holes made in them.
Not sure if this year was a sealed hub like newer ones bt the process is the same. You need to take off the brake caliper, take off the caliber mount to the axle, then the rotor should come off. May be able to remove the stud now but if not, will probably have to remove the hub. It is bolted on to the axle with 4 bolts usually. Need to pop the cap off of the outside of the hub to access the nut holding the front axle shaft to the hub. It is splined shaft that is not pressed on. By tapping the end (lightly on the threaded end) and pulling out the hub will usually release it. Good luck!
Slightly loosen tire lug nuts, raise car with jack, remove lug nuts and wheel, remove caliper bolts from brake calipers. Open cap on brake fluid reservoir, place folded towel over top of reservoir and set cap on the paper towel to hold it in place, use a large 9-inch C-clamp to squeez in on front brake pad about 1/8 inch. REmove caliper from rotor. Hang caliper from shock coils with strong bungie strap so there is no pressure on the brake line. Remove bolts from caliper plate and remove caliper plate. Using oversized phillips screwdriver end attached to a 3/8 inch flex wrench, you will carefully put light pressure in a counter-clockwise direction to remove the brass screws and tap the flex wrench at the same time with a large 3-pound hammer driving the screwdriver end into the top of the screw as you put more pressure on the wrench to loosen the screw. This is about the only way to remove brass screws without "damaging them" and they are a dealer item not found in parts store. There should be two screws holding the rotor on. Then spray liquid wrench or penetrating oil into all holes on rotor toward center to help dissolve rust. Wait three minutes then tap rear of rotor lightly with large hammer taking care NOT to hit the thin metal rotor shield. Eventually, this tapping force will loosen the rotor. Use same technique of tapping the flex wrench when applying pressure to wrench to tighten the brass screws when replacing the rotors.
How to Replace a Brake Drum (DIY Complexity: Moderate / Time: 2.1 hours)
Parts: 1. Brake Drum
Tools: 1. Jack Stand Set 2. Mallet Hammer 3. Flat Head Screwdriver 4. Floor Jack 5. Combination Wrench Set 6. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet 7. Tire Iron 8. Socket Set
Supplies: 1. Brake Cleaner
Steps: Step 1 Secure the vehicle on a level surface, making sure the vehicle will not roll or lean when jacked up. o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
Step 2 Remove the rear wheel hub caps (if necessary) to gain access to the lug nuts. Using a tire iron or lug nut wrench, break loose the rear wheel lug nuts but do not remove. o Tip: Turn the lug nuts counter clockwise to loosen. If the lug nuts are too tight, use a breaker to gain more leverage.
Step 3 Using a floor jack, lift up the rear of the vehicle. o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.
Step 4 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds or the frame rails are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working. o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.
Step 5 Remove the lug nuts. Remove the rear wheels.
Step 6 Remove the brake drum by pulling it outwards. o Tip: Make sure the parking brake is released before removing the brake drum.
Step 7 Visually inspect the brake drum for cracking, scoring or grooving. If any of these conditions are found, the brake drum will need to be resurfaced or replaced.
Step 8 Visually inspect the brake shoe linings and drum brake components for damage or wear.
Step 9 Replace worn components if necessary.
Step 10 Install the new or resurfaced brake drum.
Step 11 Reinstall the wheel. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specification.
Step 12 Remove the rubber grommet from the backing plate. Insert a screw driver into the slot and turn the star wheel adjuster to adjust the brake shoes out. o Tip: Turn the star wheel adjuster until you feel a slight drag while spinning the wheel.
Removing: Loosen lug nuts (7/8") and spindle nut (36mm). Lift truck. Remove lug nuts, spindle nut, and wheel. Remove 2 bolts (3/8" allen) holding calipers on. Hold the calipers up with a bungee cord. I attached it to the sheet metal of the fender. Remove 4 bolts (15mm) from rear of hubs. Once these bolts are removed you can move the shield that is in-between the hub and the axle(I think). You are moving it to get access to the allen bolt that holds the ABS sensor on. Once you move the shield then you can look through the top of the rotor through the slots and see the sensor line and bolt. I don't remember what size allen this one took. You do need a long allen wrench though. Disconnect sensing line from hub. Now the rotor is ready to come off. I had to use a pry bar to remove this gently working each side until it popped off. Once the rotor is removed, you need to hammer out the lug bolts. Then you have to tap the rotor away from the hub. This took a little work. Then check each of the lug bolts by screwing the lug nuts on them. They should go all the way down by hand. If they don't - go buy new bolts $2 a piece.
Installing: Position new rotor on hub. Get some dry ice from your local grocery store and freeze the bolts for about 10 minutes. Pull one bolt out of the ice at a time and install on the rotor and tighten the bolt with the lug nut. I put the nuts on upside down and used a 7/8" wrench and mallet to tap on the wrench to get these as tight as possible. You also have to tap on the head of the bolt and repeat the wrench tapping. Do this for each bolt pulling one out of the ice at a time. You do not have to get the rotor and hub completely together but get it as close together as possible. Once all of the lug bolts are in it is time to put the rotor on the truck. Ensure the shield is on the spindle and install the rotor, again, this takes some work. Once the rotor is on, connect the ABS sensing line. Line up the shield and install 4 bolts to rear of hub. You can align these by moving the hub, not the rotor. Install the caliper, remember to put brake grease on these 2 bolts. You may have to compress the caliper slightly. To do this remove the brake pad that has the circular part of the caliper touching it. Open the brake fill cap on the master cylinder. Use a C-clamp to compress the circular part. Reinstall the brake pad and brake fill cap. Install the caliper. Install the wheel and tighten lug nuts. I used a cheater bar on my tire iron and ensured that the lug bolts were flush with the head of the lug nuts. Then I removed the wheel to verify that the gap between the rotor and the hub was gone. Reinstall wheel, tighten lug nuts, and tighten spindle nut. Once both brakes have been replaced, start up the truck and pump the brakes several times till you feel some tension when pressing them.
Remove the tire, and the brake drum. With a suitable punch, and safety glasses on, drive the broken stud towards the center of the car. The stud will push away from you, thru the hub, and fall out. Get the new stud, and poke it thru the now existing hole on the hub. Place a flat washer over the stud, and thread a lug nut onto the stud, and tighten the lugnut until the stud is pulled all of the way into the hub. Remove the lug nut and the washer, and refite the drum and the wheel.
Sometimes they get a little rusted casuing them to hang up upon removing. Also, the main cause, is the pads inside are pressed lightly up against the drum itself. This is normal. you need to release the pressure of the pads against the drum. behind the assembly there is a hole in the dust cover. Inside that hole, you can reach what is called a slack adjuster with a screwdriver. It has a little round gear shapped piece inside that can be rotated using a flat head screw driver. Rotate it up or down, which ever direction is releasing the pads. If you are still having problems, spray a little wd-40 on the center hub and lug bolts. Let it soak a few minutes and with a hammer lightly tap on the drum to help jar the sieze loose.
First block the tires on the front of the car, front and rear of the tire. place the transmission in park, do not set the parking brake. Jack up the rear end, use jack stands on the rear. You should loosen the lug nuts on the wheels before jacking up.
With the truck lifted and properly supported, remove the wheels. This will expose the drum. Tap off the drum gently with a light hammer, the drum should pull off. Remove drum, it is a good idea to replace the shoes at the same time. This is done by removing the adjuster, the springs, then replace shoes as removed. Use brake cleaner on new drums before putting on, install the drum same as removed, put on wheel, lower truck and tighten the lug bolts. To adjust, turn star inside the rubber grommet on inside of drum. then you can adjust automatically by placing vehicle in reverse and apply the brakes until snug. This will get you done. Enjoy.
Easy. Take wheel and tire off, and remove the brake drum, if it has drum brakes. With a hammer, hit the broken stud until it pops out. Slide the new stud into the hole, and, using some thick washers, screw the lugnut onto the new stud, over the washers. Tighten it until the stud is pulled all of the way in. Easier done with an air wrench, however.