98 mustang. squealing coming from driver side tires. Starts at 35mph till I stop. have new brakes (HAWK) new belt. Bearings maybe?
Also, ac quit working. One day was fine, next nothing, Charged it, loss all freon over night. Charged it again and it never blew cold. Wont come on, just hot air. Now I have a rattling coming from front of motor. Could this be Compressor clutch?
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Re: 98 mustang squealing and ac
First thing to do before you charge it again replace the 'O' rings in back of the compressor also add some a/c oil because that will help the a/c compressor not to rattle this is the way I do mine I put in a can of 134A first and after that I put in the 134A oil and then I put in the rest of the 134A that is needed
I would disassemble the front brakes and check out the wheel bearings and sometime there is nothing wrong with them just need to add bearing grease but if they are scarred or damaged replace them
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serpentine belts do not stretch as you describe because the tensioner keeps them tight so they just break. It is probably hard and cracking and need s a new one so try that first . The ac has nothing to do with the belt as it will be a low gas problem from leaks and the heat is a coolant problem or a control problem from inside the car.. The grinding sound may be a pulley bearing or some other bearing failing. Why don't you take it to a repair shop to find all the faults so that you can work out how much it is going to cost.
Is it a tire squeal or brake squeal?If it is brake squeal put high temp synthetic brake lube grease behind the brake pads to reduce/remove the brake squeal.This allows the pads to sit on a bed of grease and will not vibrate at the frequency which produces the squeal.
Just for testing, a few seconds, will the vehicle start and run w/o the belt? Have a helper work the throttle, is the sound gone? If problem not the belt, check the belt driven accessory. Sometimes you can use a long metal rod of some kind, with belt on, one end of the rod touches accessory housing, the other end goes on that bone behind your ear, helps to magnify the sound. I guess you could use a mechanics stethoscope to do the same thing. Have helper work the throttle while you listen to each. Don't get tool or anything caught in belt. This is a serpentine belt, I haven't looked?
Maybe an accessory trying to freeze up or bad bearing? I can't think of anything else at the moment?
I have a 98 Ponitac Grand Prix GT. Soon as you start going it starts roaring. Gets loader the faster you go till 70 mph. When I am turning to the right a little while going 60 mph the sounds quiets down. Only to the right. I have replaced both wheel bearings, got brand new tires, new brakes. Didnt stop the roaring. Would it be cv axles, rack & pinion, transmission, etc?
If it shakes, it is normally either a bad motor mount (if the car runs fine) or your car is "missing" on one or more cylinders (misfire). The belt will squeal because they stretch with use. That can be solved by replacing the belt or tightening the belt. The squealing sound won't go away until you do one of those two things and is unrelated to the shaking. You PROBABLY are experiencing a very "rough idle" if any of the hoses to the intake (top of the motor) have a hole or crack in them from heat or age. This is common and is the first thing to look for to avoid high repair bills. Bad (worn out) spark plugs or old cracked plug wires can also cause a misfire. You could also have a bad coil pack, but mine has gone 186,000 miles without coil replacement or new plugs or wires and I've only changed the fuel filter once. Another possiblity is a faulty Idle Position Sensor that is not properly regulating the fuel delivery. Normally that would cause an engine light to come on also though and you can have someone at the parts store "read the code" once the engine light comes on.
Have you had the wheel rebalanced? Also, you could swap it to the rear of the car. If the vibration goes to the back, it's a problem with the wheel/tire. If it stays, you have a suspension issue.
If it's the wheel/tire, check for a bend in the wheel, abnormal wear on the tire, proper tire pressure, and evidence of missing weights. Rebalance the wheel and if that doesn't do it, you'll need a new tire, possibly a new wheel if it's damaged.
start at the passenger rear tire, have someone PUMP up brakes and hold pressure on them, release pressure by locating small bleeder screw, loosen screw 1/4 turn, brake fluid/air should come out, after brake petal reaches floor tighten bleeder, repeat process until only brake fluid comes out. go to driver side rear repeat, go to pass. side front repeat, go to driver side front repeat, after each bleeding make sure you check brake fluid in reservoir.