99 nissan sentra headlamp - hi beam low beam issues
I replaced LH headlamp bulb that was burnt out. Now I'm having issues with high beam and low beam. When I installed the LH headlamp bulb the brights indicator would stay on all the time. When I took the LH headlamp bulb out the brights indicator worked as it should, but there was very little difference between high beam a low beam. Also, with the bulb in, switching from high beam to low beam the switch worked opposite from the way it's supposed to. For example, the brights would normally come on only when you push the switch forward, but not now. Could it be the switch itself that's causing the issue?
I didn't mess with the switch at all and the lamp was installed properly. It's my wife's car and from what I know it worked fine up to the point that it burned out. I didn't mess with the switch at all and the lamp was installed properly. It's my wife's car and from what I know it worked fine up to the point that it burned out.
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Could be the switch. did you do anything to the switch when you changedheadlamps? maybe you put the lamp in incorrectly also did the brights work on the lamp that was "burned out"?
I have reread your post and looked up the the lamp. Yours is a halogen with three prongs on the back, correct. It would be difficult to put in backwards, moight not even work at all. To me it sounds like a short in the wiring. The brights indicator should not come on with out a complete path. Kinda like a blinker, if one blinker bulb goes out it should not blink on the dash. When you put the lamp in the indicator came on saying that the brights portion of your lamp was engaged. If you still have the lamps the new and the burnt. Install them each one at a time. Try turning the lights on and off quickly with each, then try it again on bright. If you notice that they do not come on at all sometimes or hesitant it may be your switch.I have reread your post and looked up the the lamp. Yours is a halogen with three prongs on the back, correct. It would be difficult to put in backwards, moight not even work at all. To me it sounds like a short in the wiring. The brights indicator should not come on with out a complete path. Kinda like a blinker, if one blinker bulb goes out it should not blink on the dash. When you put the lamp in the indicator came on saying that the brights portion of your lamp was engaged. If you still have the lamps the new and the burnt. Install them each one at a time. Try turning the lights on and off quickly with each, then try it again on bright. If you notice that they do not come on at all sometimes or hesitant it may be your switch.
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On the inside of the lid is a diagram .
The headlamps may be turned ON 2 different ways. First, when the driver places the headlamp switch in the HEADLAMP position, for normal operation. Second, with the headlamp switch placed in the AUTO position, for automatic lamp control (ALC). During ALC, the headlamps will be OFF in daylight conditions, or low beam operation in low light conditions. Battery positive voltage is supplied to the low beam relay and the high beam relay in the underhood fuse block. When low beam headlamps are requested, the body control module (BCM) supplies ground to the coil side of the low beam relay. This activates the relay and the relay supplies voltage to the left hand low beam headlamp through the LH LOW BEAM fuse and to the right hand low beam headlamp through the RH LOW BEAM fuse. Ground for the left hand low beam headlamp is provided at G101. Ground for the right hand low beam headlamp is provided at G102. When high beam headlamps are requested, the body control module (BCM) supplies ground to the coil side of the high beam relay. This activates the relay and the relay supplies voltage to the left hand high beam headlamp through the LH HIGH BEAM fuse and to the right hand high beam headlamp through the RH HIGH BEAM fuse. Ground for the left hand high beam headlamp is provided at G101. Ground for the right hand high beam headlamp is provided at G102.
Apr 1, 2010 - 13 posts - 6 authors
My passenger side low beam headlight recently went off on me. ... I've changed the bulb again, and changed the fuse just in case, but .... My driver side headlight wire got loose so when i hit a bump at night if would flicker. ... When you notice one side not working (Low or High beam) it could be the module.
Headlight replacement
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Jan 22, 2009 Low beams don't work but High's do
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Either one of your headlight bulbs has burnt out it's high beam filament (which can be checked by swapping the bulbs over from one headlight to the other and seeing if the fault follows the suspect bulb) or the actual switch on the steering column has fried it's contacts..which means removing the switch assembly and having it overhauled by a good auto electrician, or replaced with a new switch assembly..then it will be good for another 13 years
The headlamp circuit is rather simple. From the 15 amp RH headlamp fuse, there is a red w/yellow trace that goes to the RH high beam. Out of the 15 amp LH headlamp fuse, the wire going to the LH Hi beam is solid red. Both of these wires should have power when the headlamp relay is energized. The wires from the Hi Beam bulbs going back to the switch should both be red w/black trace. The wire going from the headlamp relay to power the 2 15 amp fuses is white. The headlamp switch applies a ground to illuminate either the Lo Beams or the Hi Beams.
Your van has dual diligent headlamp bulbs, that means each headlight has one bulb that serves as high beam and low beam. What has most likely happened is on one side the low beam filament has burnt out, and on the other side the high beam filiment has burnt out. The daytime running lights are just the high beam filament running on reduced power, so if the high beam doesn't work on one side, that same side will have no daytime running light. Replace both headlamp bulbs with matching, good quality bulbs.
Just unscrew the screws holding down the black tabs on top of the
headlights and you have to gently pull the headlight out , be careful
because the bottom of the headlight has a tab holding it in place (be
patient might have to move it around to release the bottom tab). And do
the opposite when putting the new headlights on. Even if the bottom tab breaks. the tabs on the top will old the headlight in place. Once it's changed, you'll need to re-aim the headlights...
The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly,
behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator
support.
You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam
(separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and
lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal
adjustment screws as well
Park
your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height
from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams
and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same
bulb, only do it for the lows)
For Low Beams: If the headlights read VOR, then
aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall.
If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.
For High Beams (if separate from low beams): Aim the headlight directly at the line you marked on the wall.
I didn't mess with the switch at all and the lamp was installed properly. It's my wife's car and from what I know it worked fine up to the point that it burned out.
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