Question about 1988 Mazda B2200

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Brakes worked 2 weeks ago when i parked truck 89b2200 pickup

The brakes go to floor will not even build up pressure to bleed but it has no leaks anywhere in the brake system i did put a new mastercylinder did not fix and i do have vaccum being drawn thougt this truck may be differnt than a typicalbrake job am i miswsin something

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This may be redundent, but here goes...............When you put on the "NEW" master cylinder I hope you bled it prior to installing any brake lines.....I normally mount the Master Cyl. in a vise ( very carefully) and use a philip screwdiver to push the plunger about 3/4 of the way in slowly/ and let it back out .. Do this until all the air bubbles are gone ....Obviously the fluid must be in the cyl first. install the master cyl, and bleed your brakes the normal way you bleed them....presto, done oh! RC

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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You must blead the master cylnder before installing the brake lines.

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

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1 Answer

Why do my brakes pump up after bleeding and still go to the floor when i start the truck?


Hello.

If the brakes pump up after you start your engine, it means your brakes are good and there are no bleeds.

They pump up as the car builds pressure inside the brake fluid circuit.

If the pedal loses pressure and hits the floor while the engine is on, this means that you may have brake fluid leaks and your brakes won t hold much longer (needs immediate fix).

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Pump the clutch pedal and then check for leaks again, including under the dash where the rod from the pedal goes into the clutch master cylinder. Once you find the leak, replace what's leaking and bleed the system to restore the pressure (bleeds from the slave unit, just like bleeding brakes)

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Hi, you probably have air in the hydraulic line. Check the clutch hydraulic reservoir (next to the brake reservoir)--is it empty? If yes, refill and look for a leak. Repair the leak and bleed the system to restore pedal pressure. If you need instruction for replacing components or bleeding, please let me know.

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While driving my 1994 Honda Accord the brakes went out. I can only get the car to stop if I press the brake pedal all the way down to the floor. When the car is shut off and I pump the brake pedal, I can...


There may be air in the lines. Bleed all your brakes starting at the farthest wheel from the resevoir, and finishing at the closest one. Try the pedal after its bled. If the pedal still feels soft or travels to the floor there may be a pinhole leak that may be spraying on the underbody of the car, or the seals in the master cylinder are gone filling the vacuum booster(if equipped). Air compresses more than oil so if bleeding works that may be the problem.

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Nissan 1400 champ front brakes binding, brake paddle stays high.


This indicates that you have air in the brake system or something isn't mounted properly. You'll need to inspect to see if there is anything not properly mounted, I'll deal with the brake bleeding:

You will need to bleed the brakes from the right rear first, then the left rear, right front, then left front brake, all without letting the brake Master Cylinder resivoir from getting low while doing the bleeding.

You may even want to start with the master cylinder to make sure it's bled properly by loosening the lines there first, bleeding them & then continuing to the system. Use the guide below for best results.

Bleeding brakes properly:
1. 2 people are required to do this properly, forget one man bleeders, they do work, but don't talk back or identify problems as they can't see what's happening. As a safety feature it's good to have another person nearby when someone is getting underneath a vehicle. Even my wife has had to do the pedal pushing in my household when I didn't have an assistant and needed to bleed either a brake system, or a clutch system.

2. Never let the fluid go beneath half way down when bleeding the brakes.

3. When adding fluid to the master cylinder, use a funnel to allow the fluid to run down the side into the cylinder, or use a syringe to prevent air from entering the fluid as you pour it.

4. Always pump the brakes slowly, release them slowly. Fast pedal action causes the fluid to rise into the air, allowing air to enter the system.

5. Pressurize the system by pumping repeatedly until the pedal is as firm as it will get, continue to hold that pedal down until the person bleeding the brakes, has released the air by loosening the bleeder valve, then make sure the line is tightened BEFORE releasing the brake pedal slowly. Pump the pedal again to build pressure, & bleed the brake again the same way until air stops coming out & only good fluid is seen. Proceed to the next farthest line.

If done this way, the brakes will be properly bled and if there are no leaks, the system should work properly. If you identify a leak, repair and start over.

good luck

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1 Answer

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If you are positive everything is bled out perfectly, it's possible that there is too much runout in the wheel bearings in front and they are pushing the pads back too far.

Does it feel solid after they are pumped up once? Another possibility is that the adjusters are not coming up in the rear brakes, and the springs are pulling the cylinders back too far.

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1 Answer

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Did your mechanic use a DRB III or equivalent scanner before performing the bleeding procedure after installing the master cylinder? This is a requirement by the manufacturer (Chrysler) when bleeding the brake system.

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1 Answer

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you will need to replace your master cyl and bleed your brakes
your master cyl is bypassing inside or the seal are bad inside the master cyl
there isnothing slse in the system that could cause this unless you are loosing fluid.
good luck

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