Replacing all of the hoses connected to heater valve
Went into my Dealer to have a covered warranty service to replace the heater valve on my 2005 Jaguar and was didn't complete the warranty service when the service advisor told me that in order to replace the heater valve all of the connecting hoses would have to be replaced because it was possible some or all of the connecting hoses might break also the service advisor said that the hoses are not under warranty not feeling comfortable simply requested that they add some coolant and left the dealer.
Now I have been driving for over a week and half interesting that the dashboard computer message has not displayed to me "engine coolant is low". Please advise if the hoses have to be replaced?
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Re: Replacing all of the hoses connected to heater valve
The cooling system should be pressure tested, and this will hopefully reveal the source of the loss of your coolant.
Most normally a hose.
It is very difficult to give cooling system hoses a clean bill of health, other than by squeezing and visual inspection whilst under the pressure test procedure.
This is why, if 1 hose blows, better to be safe and replace the rest.
( My recommendation. )
Also perhaps if you have not had the vehicle from new,? you do not know if the engine has ever had a previous overheating problem, and been overheated, putting strain on the hoses.
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Do you have Manual Climate Control System or Dual Automatic Temperature Control System ?
The temperature control switch:
is a potentiometer that outputs a variable voltage to the temperature blend door actuator to set the position of the temperature blend door.
initiates closing of the heater control valve. When set to full COOL, a lever on the temperature blend door pivot shaft depresses the pintle of the heater control valve vacuum switch. The heater control valve vacuum switch then applies vacuum to the heater control valve, closing off engine coolant flow to the heater core.
is serviced only with the climate control assembly.
You may have disturbed something when changing the actuator , the vacuum switch o vacuum hose .
I believe the one your describing goes from the air inlet tube assy. , up and over the throttle body and goes to the top of the valve cover, under the ignition module (firewall side). If you already paid the dealer to fix this, take it back under warranty,
It sounds like the heater control valve may be stuck. This valve
allows heated water from the engine to pass through the heater core
which in turn heats the inside of your car. If this valve is stuck,
only a small portion of heated water will pass through. If this is the
case, you should have the control valve replace.
You should be able to find it by following the heater hoses coming
from the radiator leading back to the firewall. These hoses will about
1/2 - 3/4 of an inch in diameter so you shouldn't get them confused with
the normal radiator hoses.
You can probably purchase a new valve at an auto parts store but I'm sure the dealer will have one.
If that's not the problem, it could be that the core itself is
clogged up. That's a little more expensive and more of a pain to
replace. if this is helpful please dont forget to give rateing thank you
Replacing the heater core in a Pontiac Sunfire is a very difficult and complex process. The heater core is kept within the car's heating/air conditioning module behind the instrument panel. So many other parts have to be drained and removed from the car
to reach the heating/air conditioning unit that you may be better off
leaving this to a professional mechanic--especially one licensed to work
on air conditioning units. Things You'll Need:
Air conditioning reclaimer
Hose clamp pliers
Recharge service hose
Removing the Core
Make sure the car is cool, the front wheels are facing
forward and the ignition switch is off. Drain the engine coolant by
removing the drain plug at the radiator and letting the coolant pour
into a clean container, then do the same at the engine block's drain
plug. Recover the refrigerant by connecting an air conditioning
reclaimer to the system high and low side fittings as its instructions
Disconnect the evaporator lines to the evaporator by
removing its bolt and disconnect the heater hoses from the core by
loosening the hose clamps with clamp pliers. Remove the drain tube from
the evaporator case. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove all the trim covers and panels from the
instrument panel; some of these are screwed on and some require a flat
bladed tool. Remove all air distribution ducts from the panel, the air
bags, the steering wheel, the radio, the tilt and washer levers and all
electrical connectors, then unscrew and remove the instrument panel from
the car. Unbolt the cross vehicle beam, remove its wiring harness and remove the beam.
Remove the air outlet in the floor. Disconnect the
wiring harness for the heater/air conditioner and the electrical
connectors at the blower's motor and resistor.
Remove the heater/air conditioning module by removing
its attaching bolts and the assembly screw. Remove the heater cover case
by removing its heat stakes and screws and remove the heater core.
Install the replacement core into the heater/air
conditioner module, then re-connect the heater core cover case. Install
the assembly in the vehicle,
aligning the mounting bracket to the front of the dash slot and
mounting bolt hole. Reconnect the electrical connectors and wiring
harness and install the floor air outlet.
Reinstall the cross vehicle beam and every component of the instrument panel. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Install the drain tube back on the evaporator case. Connect the hater hoses and the evaporator lines.
Recharge the air conditioner. Connect a can of R134a
refrigerant to the air conditioner's low side service fitting with a
recharge service hose and a high pressure gauge to the high side
fitting. Open the service hose valve while the car runs with the A/C at
the max and let the vapor flow until the gauge reads between 225 and 250
Refill the cooling system at the radiator filler neck. Use fresh coolant if the old liquid is dirty in any way
If your engine reaches normal operating temperature then it sounds like the heater valve is not operating. Find the valve on the engine firewall passenger side and manually open the valve. Find it by following the 3/4 inch heater hose to the firewall where it is connected to the valve. Most likely the cable ( or vaccum hose)from the temperature dial to the valve needs replacing.
Get an estimate from a Ford dealer. Your problem may not take all the parts that Goodyear wants to put in. The dealer has recall info and may work with you to keep a Ford customer. You say your compressor went bad, but that may be the result of a problem and not the cause.
You can also try independent shops rather than franchises. But you may not know of any. Sometimes I ask at Police stations if I need help for reliable service places.
Just had the same problem and got the same answer about removing the body to repair. Apparently it's an integrated set of lines serving both rear heat and cooling. Very expensive and not covered by extended warranty. My dealer was able to isolate the corroded heater line at the rear wheel well. They cut out that section and replaced it with a rubber hose and clamps. It worked for heat, but if AC lines suffers the same fate, there is no option other than the very expensive full line replacement.