Question about 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

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Alternator running very hot.

Mark

ABS pump not an issue, pulled the fuse and have the same result. Alternator running hot to the point where you cannot touch it and this is my third alternator. Have installed one new battery and everything was good for an hour then it seemed that something cut-in and now running hot again.

2003 6.0L KingRanch F250

Steve

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  • steve_eltech Jan 29, 2009

    I have a 2003 superduty King Ranch diesel with single alternator. On my third alternator since Dec 22nd. Have had the batteries tested several times and they appear to be fine. After just twenty minutes of idle time the alternator is hot enough to fry eggs on. Alternator putting out 14.0 volts and about 35 amps with everything off. Can't seem to fine anyone that can fix this problem. Please help as I'm afraid it will catch fire.

  • steve_eltech Jan 29, 2009

    Have checked the starter and no problems there? What controls the alternator regulator? Maybe it's not cutting out?

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    What do u think is wrong?

  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    Have you found what causes this yet? Sure would like to know.

  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    The regulator monitors battery voltage levels in the system and increases the current in the field winding of the alternator, thus increasing alternator output. It's a voltage, current, load (resistance) kind of relationship.

    Voltage drops below preset point (12.6 volts), transistor turns on to allow more alternator field winding current flow, alternator voltage and current output increase to a point that it equals with the load, and battery voltage goes back up to 12.6 volts or greater (but not greater than 14.8 volts.)

    Something in your truck is eating power, making the regulator turn on hard, heating up the alternator, which may be undersized for the job, which heats it up even more. It's always better to have an excess of power generating capability than to not have enough.


  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    Something is really eating some power for some reason.

    I know it sounds weird, but is the starter disengaging from the flywheel? I know your releasing the key, but any chance you can hear it continue to be engaged? Maybe put your hand on it and see if it get's hot from something internal?

    Where did the "cut-in" noise come from? The engine, from underneath the truck? Where?

    Seems you indicated somewhere else that you had a 50 Amp alternator. Everything I can find says it's a 100+ Amp alternator.

    So I assume this is diesel since you replaced 1 battery? If they were both the same age, then what are the chances the old battery has shorted? What was the failure of the replaced battery?



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My 89 crown vic alternator was getting hot quick. seems ford had problems with their plug connectors. they should be cleaned or replaced...

Posted on Apr 07, 2013

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When you replace a alternator make sure battery is fully charged 1275 hydrometer reading on all cells. alternators will get hot. if you purchased from a cheap auto parts store with the lifetime warranty youll find out you purchased a life time of changing substandard parts (and they only replace 3 times)i would suggest you take it to a local rebuilder (whole vechicle) and have tested

Posted on Aug 22, 2009

6 Suggested Answers

  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: not charging

Possibly a fusible link somewhere in the circuit has burned through and disconnected the circuit.A wiring diagram would be needed to look for the location of any fusible links Ohms check the wires involved in the alternator charging circuit to verify continuity.

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: Charging system

change your battery cables and check all wires on the alternator for loose connections, expecially the grounds.

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

warlock61
  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 F250 Turbo Diesel alternator pulley

the belt tensioner is on the lower left of the engine there is a 1/2 drive square hole on the right hand side pulley arm to release the tension its a pain to get at but you can, sometimes it is easier from the bottom

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 ford f250 diesel truck alternator

has anyone thought about the regulator, i think that its built into the alt, replace it and then see if the prob continues, you can get a pass on the alt test and still have a bunk regulator

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

jaysonemanme
  • 500 Answers

SOURCE: cant get alternator off

i can't send u a diagram, but there is usually a plastic air deflector sheild on the alt. in the focus'. there are 3 small nuts to remove the sheild, i think your last bolt may be under this sheild. they are a pain. most people take the motor mount out and drop the engine a little ways to make it easier. hope this helps you and good luck

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Instrument panel went dead

Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

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