Question about 1987 Toyota Pickup

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Front brakes lock up intermitantly

Some times front brakes lock up the back brakes are free checked lines for obstuction but they are clear

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Maybe try bleeding the whole system again

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

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06 Grand Cherokkee..intermitent brake problem. brakes come on without touching the brake pedal.all dash gauges stop working. bas light on.


Wow! That has to add excitement to your life! Start with this....

Sounds like a "WSS" (wheel speed sensor) problem. Each wheel has one. Located on the backside of each hub, between the brake disc and hub bearing. Check for loose connector first. Wire damage? Wiring touching exhaust pipes or rubbing wheel or tire? Look for mud or debris or damage to the sensor's or the rotating sensor ring. ( has a lot of "teeth") Try driving in reverse, in a straight line 25 to 30 feet, then drive forward twice that distance. If that does not clear the warning lamps most auto parts stores can hook into your computer (usually for free) and determine which sensor(s) have an issue. Replacing these sensors is common and simple. You may still need to get the code cleared to turn light off.

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Clear color oil leak appears to be mostly in the front under front wheels is where I noticed it


Most likely BRAKE Fluid. !! Pull the wheels (one at a time if doing it yourself) and closely inspect the calipers and flex line to them and teh connections to the metal line which goes to the brake master cylinder.
Its worth taking to a brake shop for inspection. Quick look is usually free.
CHECK YOUR BRAKE FLUID LEVEL BEFORE DRIVING FURTHER.

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I have a intermitant front brake problem,when driving in stop start traffic after while front brakes overheat and jam on ,can be either side, have to park up for an hour til they cool off when cool they...


this usually happens when the calipers or the rubber lines are bad also the bolts that hold the caliper have to slide freely and they tend to rust but is not when they cool off that releases but when the pressure flows back is the rubber line more like

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I have a 86 lincoln mark vii and i have a problem with the right front brake the caliper doesnt want to relase after the brake pedal is released and heats up and smokes piston still moves back and forth...


replace the brake hose they get what is called a fissure inside hose and it will act like a check valve you hit brake pedal and when you let off brake pedal the fissure inside hose will hold pressure on caliper i see it all the time next time it locks up open the bleeder screw on caliper and the wheel will free up because you release the pressure that can,t go thru hose

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4 wheel drive not engaging


The neutral/foot on brake or park is only if you are shifting into 4L. If you are shifting into 4H, applying light throttle up to 55 mph shift on the fly is fine ( per owners manual ).

Operationally vacuum holds the IWE ( Integrated Wheel Ends ) out, and once vac is removed the spring engages the IWE.

Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground ( take safety precautions, chock wheels, jack stands, etc )
Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft.
If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case.
If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.

- If the front drive shaft does not turn :
Shut of the truck ( still jacked up, and supported ) remove the vac lines from the IWE. The spring should push the gears in, without the vac line on.
Check the vent line ( tube that is routed into the engine compartment with nothing attached to it ), for blockages.
If the vent line is clear, and with the vac lines off the IWE should be engaged ( both front wheels locked ).
If they lock, the problem is with the IWE solenoid not shutting off vacuum to the IWEs. There is a TSB on the 2004-2006 IWE solenoids, a newer revision has been made, and used from 2007 and newer MYs.

Here is a block diagram of the IWE system
0fa4f4b.jpg
If the front drive shaft turns, I have seen some lightly hit the back of the transfer case, to free up the shift motor, with mixed results.
If you had a vacuum leak, the front wheels would be locked in, or poping in and out of locked in, causing a grinding noise ( IWE gears not engaging fully, grinding the teeth off ).

If you find a problem with the vacuum lines or the IWE solenoids, you can pull the vacuum lines and plug them, this would leave the front wheels locked in all the time. Fine for short use, don't try racing like this ( pushing a dead axle is a lot of HP requirements )

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This sounds like the master cylinder isnt releasing pressure I would change master cylinder.

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