Question about 1991 Honda Civic
Cranks but no fire
A couple of things to check:
Hondas of this vintage have a relay located high under the dash up along the left fender wall. When this relay fails (it is usually a bad solder joint and not the relay itself) the car will crank but not run. You said "no spark" and this relay causes "no fuel" as it controls the injection system, so if you are sure it is a no spark problem (usually igniter) then this is not the problem.
This is almost too obvious to ask, but is the distributor turning? The distributor is powered by the cam shaft and if you have a broken timing belt, the distributor won't turn. As the 1.6L is an interference engine, this would likely be pretty obvious.
OK- back to the igniter. Did you test both your old one and the replacement? They are pretty easy to check with an ohm meter. They should have low resistance in one direction and read open the opposite way. If they read resistance in both directions or open in both directions, then the igniter is bad.
When you replaced the igniter, are you sure you got the reluctor reseated properly?
If you are sure it is no spark, the connections to the distributor are all good and you are getting the proper inputs, then if it were mine, I would get a complete used distributor from a salvage yard (around here that would be about 30-35 dollars). If it runs with a replacement distributor, you have narrowed the problem considerably.
Did you remove the distributor to replace the igniter? If so, did you set the engine to TDC on #1 and mark the distributor position with a scribe before removing it? If not, then the problem is almost certainly timing.
1.) set the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) for #1. The mark on the crank will line up with TDC for either #1 or #3. Normally you can remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing to tell which one it is on, but if the distributer were installed wrong, you need to varify by either pulling the #1 spark plug, setting a screw-driver down on the piston, and verifying it is pushed as high as it can go when the marks line up, or by removing the valve cover and verifying that there is a little play on all the valve adjustors (all valves fully closed).
When the engine is at TDC install the distributor so that the rotor points to #cylinder wire-contact on the cap.
This will get the timing close enough to run, but it will still need to be set using an electronic timing light at the proper engine RPMs with vacuum lines remove and plugged per the service manual. This is much easier than it sounds and there are lots of youtube videos to help.
One more thing- I had one that mysteriously would not fire - I found the set-screw was loose for the rotor letting it spin freely on the distributor shaft. Some Honda rotors are not "keyed" to the shaft but are locked in place by a set screw that will only screw into the shaft when the rotor is in the correct position
Posted on Oct 28, 2013
Ignition timing could be way off.use test light see if ignition coil getting 12 volts could have blowed ignition fuse.
Posted on Jan 24, 2013
With the distributor cap removed have someone turn over the engine, while you check rotor arm is turning! If memory serves me right! The keyway use to ring on them.... plus the rotor its self use to split.. make sure contacts are clean. . G/l
Posted on Jan 24, 2013
Do you have compression . and did you check to make sure all of your connections are tight grounds and loose wires tight . is the rotor button turn while you turn the motor over . is the timeing belt loose ?
Posted on Jan 24, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: car cranks but no start
Based on the used electrical design, one terminal of the ignition coil would be +12V when IGN switch is ON/RUN. It is the other terminal that is switched by a CDI/igniter. If the igniter will not switch the coil, then you will not have any spark. The igniter to work needs a pulse trigger input from the engine (to know when to fire).
In some instances, there is an immobilizer that disables the coil from firing as part of the vehicle's security system. You may want to have a look at your alarm system also.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Jun 15, 2008
SOURCE: my honda oddessey 1995, my
Hi, since you've replaced everything else, about the only thing left is the crankshaft position sensor. This is the sensor the computer uses to time the spark signals. Because this sensor is expensive, I recommend you test it first to verify it's bad before replacing. I have pasted test procedures below as well as replacement procedure in case it fails the tests. You will need an ohmmeter for the test. If you don't have an ohmmeter, you can buy one for as little as $10, or maybe you can borrow one. You will also need a timing light if you replace the sensor. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa. Fig. Fig. 2: The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor rotor looks like a small gear in the lower distributor housing- CRV and 1995 Odyssey models 7. Check and reset the ignition timing as outlined below. Fig. Fig. 1: The inductive lead of the timing light is placed around the No. 1 spark plug wire; and the light is aimed toward the marks on the crankshaft pulley. Fig. Fig. 2: The red ignition timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is lined up with the pointer. The two small notches on either side of the red colored notch represent the plus (+) or minus (-) 2° increments. The white notch to the far right is Top Dead Center (TDC)
TESTING CRV and 1995 Odyssey Models
CRV models: The blue and white wires. The resistance should be 300-700 ohms. 1995 Odyssey models: The blue/green and blue/yellow wires. The resistance should be 700-1,300 ohms.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CRV and 1995 Odyssey Models
ADJUSTMENT CRV and 4-Cylinder Odyssey Models
If equipped with an automatic transaxle, place the shifter in Park or Neutral. If equipped with a manual transaxle place the shifter in Neutral. Make sure to apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
Odyssey models with 4-cylinder engines: centrally located on the passenger side, under the dash. The connector has two wires; one is brown with a black tracer, and the other wire is red.
See Figures 1 and 2
2.2L/2.3L Odyssey 2.2L models: 13-17° at 650-750 rpm
Fig. Fig. 2: The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor rotor looks like a small gear in the lower distributor housing- CRV and 1995 Odyssey models
7. Check and reset the ignition timing as outlined below.
Fig. Fig. 1: The inductive lead of the timing light is placed around the No. 1 spark plug wire; and the light is aimed toward the marks on the crankshaft pulley.
Fig. Fig. 2: The red ignition timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is lined up with the pointer. The two small notches on either side of the red colored notch represent the plus (+) or minus (-) 2° increments. The white notch to the far right is Top Dead Center (TDC)
Posted on Apr 03, 2011
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