Re: have code P1682 on 98 dodge durango. I know it's...
Ck the fuse but this vehicle has a built in voltage regulator in the pcm and you have to either install a different pcm and then have it reflashed for your vehicle or install and external regulator i believe napa sells these as i have replaced quite a few of these in our shop.
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P0201 -PCM detected a fault in the injector or the wiring to the injector. PCM monitors the injector and when the injector is activated. PCM expects to see the voltage pulled "low" or close to zero.
When the injector is switched off, the PCM expects to see a voltage that is close to battery voltage or "high". If it doesn't see the expected voltage the PCM will set this code. PCM also monitors resitance in the circuit. If the resistance is excessively low or high it will set this code.
The causes could be a bad injector. This is usually the cause but doesn't rule out the possibility of one of the other electrical causes
Code 25 is a problem with cam timing, and code 36 is for a problem with the heater circuit for the O2 sensor - bank one sensor two. The testing procedure for each code would need to be followed to find the problem. You would need a shop manual to get the testing procedure. The codes are not related and the problems may not be constant.
May or may not throw a code, have you had the alternator checked, this sounds like a bad alternator and also you charged the batteries but have them tested also, this sounds like an alternator problem.
CODE 11 No distributor referene signal detected during engine cranking....Check circuit between the distributer and the pcm.
CODE 12 Problem with battery connection.Direct battery input to pcm disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles.
CODE 13** Indicates a problem with map sensor vacuum system.
CODE 14** map sensor voltage to high or to low.
CODE 15** Problem with vehicle speed sensor signal.No vss signal detected during road load conditions.
CODE 17 Engine is cold to long.Engine coolant temp stays below normal operating temp(check thermostat).
CODE 21** Problem with oxygen sensor signal circuit.Sensor voltage to computer not fluctuating.
CODE 22** Coolant sensor voltage to high or to low.Test coolant temp sensor.
CODE 23** Indicates that the air temp sensor input is below the minimum
acceptable voltage or sensor input is above the acceptable voltage.
CODE 24** Throttle position sensor voltage to high or low.Test the tps.
CODE 25** Idle air control (IAC) valve circuits.A shorted condition is
detected in one or more of the IAC valve circuits.Or a vacuum leak has
CODE 27 One of the injector control circuit output drivers does not respond properly to the control signal.Check the circuits.
CODE 31** Problem with canister purge solenoid circuit.
CODE 32** An open or shorted condition detected in the EGR solenoid
circuit.Possible air/fuel ratio imbalance not detected during diagnosis.
CODE 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit.An open or shorted condition in the compressor clutch relay circuit.
CODE 34 Open or shorted condition in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits.
CODE 35 Open or shorted condition detected in the radiator fan low speed relay circuit.
CODE 37** Open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit.
CODE 41** Problem with charging system.An open or shorted condition detected in the generator Field control circuit.
CODE 42 Fuel pump relay or auto shutdown relay (ASD) control circuit indicates an open or shorted condition.
CODE 43** Multiple cylinder misfire detected.Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time.
CODE 44 Battery temperature sensor volts malfunction.Problem with the battery temperature voltage circuit in the pcm.
CODE 46** Charging system volts to high>Computer indicates that the battery voltage is not properly regulated.
CODE 47** Charging system voltage to low.Battery voltage sense input
below target charging voltage during engine operation and no significant
change in voltage detected during active test or alternator output.
CODE 51** Oxygen sensor signal input indicates lean air/fuel ratio condition during operation.
CODE 52** Oxygen sensor signal input indicates rich air/fuel ratio during engine operation.
CODE 53** internal pcm failure detected.
CODE 54** No camshaft position sensor signal from distributer.Problem with the distributer synchronization circuit.
CODE 55 Completion of fault code display on check engine lamp.this is end of message code.
CODE 62 Unsuccessful attempt to update EMR mileage in the controller EEPROM.
CODE 63** Controller failure.EEPROM write denied.Check the PCM
There may be a fault code or codes stored, though. Have an engine scan done for trouble codes as a first step in diagnosis. If no codes are present, I would start by investigating the idle circuit-clean the throttle body and have the IAC (idle air control) tested for proper operation. Good luck.
it is the regulator that is the problem
a battery will need 14.5-14.8 volts dc to charge and a fully charged battery in good condition will read 13.2 on a multimeter
as you say the regulator is in the ecm so get a good replacement from the wreckers or junk yard or get a reconditioned ecm for those shops that can recondition/exchange
That 12v is probably just battery voltage. If you have a test light try sticking the red wire going to the back of the alternator and see if you have power there. If you do, you very likely may have bought a bad alt... It happens here at the shop all of the time. If you dont have power -look for a fuseable link somewhere between the alternator and the battery and check power on both sides of the link. Also see if there is an ALT fuse in the engine compartment fuse box.
You have a draw and a draw pulling more than a couple hundred milliamps.This will drain the battery in an objectionably short amount of time.. All the things you mentioned and more can cause this draw. The best diagnostic step towards isolating your draw is with meter that reads Volts DC or better yet a test light.(I think) ..disconnect B+ positive battery cable. Install meter or lamp in series with disconnected cable and battery post. You do have some smal draws like computer memories,clocks etc which will show a low amount of voltage hence a very dim test light. If you are drawing heavy ,obviously the meter will show a full blown 12 volts and the lamp bulb will be very bright. Remove fuses,unplug relays,dis-connect devices while watching the voltage or lamp.You should begin to isolate offending item once the circuit has been detected, Generally pulling all fuses individually will tell you at least which circuit is pulling the amps.
The proper way to jump start is to start the car that is doing the boosting first then connect the cables, making sure that the polarities are right, negative to negative and vice versa. The reason for this is that while cranking the car doing the boosting, the the car with the low battery suffer a significant voltage spike since the sudden draw of current will pull the voltage down on a weak battery, and when the car do start, the voltage suddenly goes up, adding to that, the alternator bring the voltage even higher. Electronic circuits are sesitive to these voltage spikes. Still I doubt your problem is caused by these unless theses things you are having problems with are controlled electronic,.