Question about 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee
I have changed the master cylinder with a new part including the reservoir and have bled the brakes the brake condition did not improve and lots of fluid exits the bleeder and looks normal at the front.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a Jeep Wrangler
The proportioning valve most definately can be the problem. Did you change it or is it the original? (A disc/drum system uses a 70%front/30%rear braking ratio, whereas an all-disc system is alot more even). I would first bleed the master cylinder. Then I would 'gravity bleed' the rest of the system by opening the bleeders on all 4 wheels. Do not at any point let the m/cylinder go dry. Also, do not touch the brake pedal.
Continuously check all 4 bleeders, when clean brake fluid with no bubbles at all is running from a bleeder, close it. When all 4 wheels are done, recheck the fluid level and you should be OK.
Pump the pedal to 'self-adjust' the rear calipers, then re-check the fluid level.
Any problem after that means you either have a loose connection (it's possible for a tiny leak to let air in, but not let fluid leak), a leak, or you need a new (disc/disc type) proportioning valve. I would try Summit Racing myself. Good Luck!
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
SOURCE: 1993 jeep cherokee
It also sounds like a more likely problem is a seized caliper on the left side. If a caliper seizes, the braking system transfers the pedal pressure to the other caliper thus, the working caliper locks up. Pull both front wheels and look carefully at the wear on the pads. Both wheels should have the same amount of wear. If one side is worn more than the other, the side with the least wear is seized and needs to be changed.
Never heard of a hydraulic repostioning valve, but maybe with ABS there is one. I do know of a proportioning valve which apportions brake pressure front to back and also blocks braking to front or back in the event of brake line failure. Maybe see which he is talking about, should be able to explain the difference. Hope this helps.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
Have your son pump the brake pedal until it gets hard. Then as you loosen the bleeder screw at that wheel tell him to let his foot ride the pedal and don't take his foot off until you tighten the bleeder screw.
You see, the pressiure he is building will force the airt out. Do this a couple of times until you get a good stream of brake fluid. He should be able to notice a good pedal again... I'm suspecting he has none or little pedal right now. Make sure you refill fluid in your master cylinder.
I hope this helps... Good luck!
Posted on Oct 12, 2009
What happens is the caliper pistons seize. you could rebuild them, but much better to buy new or rebuilt ones.
Replace the flexible hoses at the same time, sometimes they deteriorate on the INSIDE and cause similar issue.
If you have pullsation, after all of this, I would expect that your rotors have suffered heat damage. They would need to be turned or replaced. DO not put up with pullsation.
ALSO, you do "wheel sets" do not replace JUST one side. The safety rule is always do the same to BOTH sides, when you do brakes.
Posted on Mar 22, 2010
Testimonial: "Very helpful - thank you"
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 26, 2017 | GMC Cars & Trucks
Oct 09, 2016 | 1997 Mercury Sable
Jun 04, 2014 | 1995 Chevrolet G20
Sep 21, 2010 | 1999 Pontiac Grand Am GT
Sep 15, 2010 | Chevrolet Corsica Cars & Trucks
Feb 27, 2010 | 2001 Cadillac Catera
Jul 22, 2009 | 2001 Ford Taurus
Mar 27, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer
Mar 15, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier
54 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!