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Vinny D Posted on Dec 06, 2017
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2001 S10 Codes not ready

Changed my battery over a month ago,went in for in for NYS inspection was told all codes reading not ready,went back 2 or 3 times so far with 200 plus miles on truck each time and still with same result,please help..is it possible the batter i bought is no good and causing computer to reset every time i turn off truck?

1 Answer

Rick M

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  • Chevrolet Master 4,148 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 06, 2017
Rick M
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Joined: Jun 26, 2017
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Far more likely you've got an intermittent in the ign switch that's shutting off power to the main relays causing all the monitors to reset. Get a wiring diagram and a voltmeter. Connect and wiggle the wires, key and connector to see if you have an intermittent in the wires or switch

5 Related Answers

daves944

Dave C

  • 1050 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 21, 2009

SOURCE: pcm not ready, NYS inspection, 1997 Saturn SL-1

Performing a GM OBDII Driving cycle:

  1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.
    Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
  2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.
  3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
  4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
  7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
  8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

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Joseph Bonomo

  • 87 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 28, 2009

SOURCE: not ready codes

There is a long drive cycle for this issue and it is a tsb so it should be free. Have them call hyundai tech line to get the drive cycle. Its so long i could never type it out for you. Its pages but it works. If the dealer gives you any problems call hyundai consumer affairs and they will take care of it for you. the number is in your owners manual or ask a sales person. Hyundai cansumer affairs will do anything to make you happy. Hope this helps good luck.

Anonymous

  • 91 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 30, 2009

SOURCE: Codes need to be reset in my cars computer?

if you had it replaced it should have already been set however you can reset your cars computer by taking the positive battery cable off the battery and waiting 2-3 min and then touching the positive cable from the car to the negative cable which is still attached to the neg post on the battery for about 5 sec and the hooking it back up. that will reset the computer which would configure any new sensors. when the computer reads a bad code it bypasses that sensor so your car will run. it wont run to the best of its ability though - that's why you didn't pass an inspection. when you replaced the sensor the computer didn't notice because it already stopped reading that sensor when it went bad and doesnt know about the new one. when you reset the computer as i told you then it will read the new sensor and work properly.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 08, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 gmc jimmy. replaced secondary air intake pump

i have been changing the big green fuse in a box near the inside wall on passenger side. you have to take the battery out to see this box. i have had the fuse replaced 3 times and the light went off so i went to have it inspected and it did not pass because of the pump they say. i don't want to have to pay 300.00 just for this part. pam

pal03246

Phil Lovisek

  • 726 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 26, 2009

SOURCE: Nissan Sentra 2001 gxe with code p0420

You will need a new catalytic convertor assembly. Yours is below treshold efficiency in other words its "no good".If you have it replaced, ask the garage/dealer to give you the old one back. Its worth some cash if its full. It doesn't matter thet it failed. They are going after the mesh inside of it and that is worth some $$$$. May not be much , but better than nothing.

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

NYS inspection, the vehicle will pass 6 out of 9 checks but will not do the others, with no pending codes. How can I get it to pass the other three to complete the inspection?

What vehicle do you have and what are the monitors that will not set? Also, in NYS you can have one monitor that is not ready.
0helpful
1answer

Ok here I go again. I have a 2006 nissan altima 2.5s. I took it to a shop a few months ago for inspection. It failed. After having it diagnosed they said it was the down stream sensor. The code I was...

Real simple

None of the shops you went to,
know how to diagnose a vehicle

I think your statement about one monitor,
is the evap system ,because they can test
the gas cap,the others have to run clear,
at least in New Jersey

Almost seems like the people that come to this site

Your shop just throw parts at the codes & no testing
to find a problem

If the problems are solved, you don't have to clear the codes

Clearing the MIL Lamp or check engine light, clears all data,
emission monitors,& freeze frame data set at the time fault
codes are set,so you got nothing to work with to find a problem

So never clear fault codes after a repair,let the monitors do their thing

All sensors are aftermarket sensors-so that is nonsense

That should have been a clue to forget that shop

The same companies make sensors for everyone,
new vehicle or used

Vehicle manufactures stamp sheet steel & make bodies
& assemble purchased components only
0helpful
1answer

No codes but EGR valve will not reset

Do you see a warning light ? The first step is always checking for stored OBDII fault codes.

If you cleared codes and one monitor will not set up after driving for 250 miles a code should be logged for that system failure.

Here is a previous fixya post describing the monitor set up drive cycle.
What is the drive cycle to reset computer on 2001 chey impala 3 8l v6
0helpful
1answer

'01 Audi A6 Quattro wiring problems. Big problems.

all electronics need a good ground point
so all that I can offer is to clean the battery terminals and battery posts to shiny clean and make sure that the battery ground wire is tight on a clean ground point on the chassis or engine
next suggestion is to have the fault codes read and if there are any bad modules , they will show in the codes
if you take it any where and they do not read the fault codes first go some where else as the codes are there to make diagnosing a problem easy.
1helpful
1answer

I cannot inspect my car because it reads is not ready yet. I used a actron code reader and I had one code that turn out to be the ox sensor by cat. I changed it. When I went back to autozone to get codes...

Basically take the car for a long drive .
Stop off get gas , drive to a shopping center( need a few on/ off starts). Few hard braking , few not so hard braking. reverse when possible . Gotta figure about 30- 50 miles of driving.
1helpful
1answer

I have swift diesel vdi car. One month ago panel showed SES light while running.. After 2 days i went to maruti authorised service station for service. After inspecting my car, mechanic told me that one...

The problems need to be fixed before they erase the codes otherwise the codes will reappear. I hope they didnt do that just so the warranty would run out.
0helpful
4answers

I have a 2001 Santa Fe and the Engine light is lit and has been for many years. When I took the vehicle for the State Inspection I was told that the Co2 needed to be changed so the light would come off and...

The best thing to do is go to Auto Zone and get your Hyundai scanned for a DTC code. That would tell us which O2 sensor has gone bad. You have three O2 sensors and one of them has gone bad, the O2 sensor sends signals to the ecm to control the air fuel mixture so it will not run to rich or to lean which is causing you to fail the state inspection. Good luck and keep me posted on what the DTC codes are, be glad to help.
1helpful
1answer

Codes need to be reset in my cars computer?

if you had it replaced it should have already been set however you can reset your cars computer by taking the positive battery cable off the battery and waiting 2-3 min and then touching the positive cable from the car to the negative cable which is still attached to the neg post on the battery for about 5 sec and the hooking it back up. that will reset the computer which would configure any new sensors. when the computer reads a bad code it bypasses that sensor so your car will run. it wont run to the best of its ability though - that's why you didn't pass an inspection. when you replaced the sensor the computer didn't notice because it already stopped reading that sensor when it went bad and doesnt know about the new one. when you reset the computer as i told you then it will read the new sensor and work properly.
0helpful
1answer

Obd not ready won't pass inspection

It usually takes more than one drive cycle to clear all monitors to "ready".The vehicle may take multiple "from cold" drive cycles and hundreds of miles to clear all.Drive normally with varied driving and include long coasting down stops.Buy a cheap scan tool ($35) and check monitors as you drive.
DO NOT CLEAR CODES or run the battery dead or you will have to start over!
0helpful
1answer

Not ready computer codes

did you try disconnecting battery to clear codes
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