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How do i cut cast iron pipe grey

Need solution to cut pipe

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You can get a steel cutting blade for a handheld circular saw and use that if you have room.. beware of the sparks also..this looks like a flat grinding wheel and runs in place of the sawblade.. it will cut through most metals..be very careful as it will spin very fast so hold slow and steady when cutting with it..

Posted on Jan 23, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Do you mean broken off and stuck inside or broken off and fallen out? Broken off and fallen out in this case is a good thing. Sounds like you mean the exhaust is broken at the manifold but what isn't clear is which piece, the manifold or the exhaust pipe. The manifold is a part of the engine, the exhaust pipe is connected to the manifold via the flange you speak of so if it is broken (coming from the engine as a base point) before the flange you need to change the manifold (less likely - hardly ever breaks - usually made of cast iron or cast aluminium) or where they typically break just after the flange (exhaust pipes are notorious for rusting out here, you will need to replace the front exhaust pipe and donut (gasket within the flange). Due to the high heat in this area it is extremely common for the bolts holding the pipe to the manifold to not just be ceased to it (lube will probably do no good) but to actually weld (or forge if you will) themselves to the metal of the pipe, in which case you need to cut them out with a torch. A good mechanic can usually do this without damaging the manifold. That is why it is a good thing if they have broken off and fallen out, much easier to change then welded in bolts (which would not fall out). I say replace the front exhaust pipe because without knowing which year your protege is or if it has an after market exhaust I don't know for sure if it is a one piece system or more than one piece. If it is a one piece you will need to either change the whole thing or do some cutting and welding to piece a section in. In which case, I do not recommend cutting the new piece you purchase but if the old exhaust on the vehicle is in alright shape from the muffler back you may be able to section it off and just replace the front section. Piecing it together would require at least one more piece, one to contact the old pipe to the new which would also need to be welded on but this method can still be cheaper (most of the time). Anything other than a simple in/out replacement will require torches and obviously if the bolts are welded in it is not a simple in/out job.

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The sensor is located on the exhaust system between where the cylinder ports enter the common manifold and the muffler. Sometimes they are on the cast iron manifold and sometimes they are on the exhaust pipe after the cast iron manifold.

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Here's how to they're assembled - disassembly is the reverse:
http://www.mhsradiators.com/assets/19.asset

You'll need Adobe Reader to view the PDF file pointed to by this link.

The Radiator Spud Wrench below may prove useful, but it's a plumbing specialty tool that a licensed master plumber would have.

11_28_2011_12_05_21_am.jpg

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Overheated due to a heater hose leak all hoses were replaced but now have white smoke coming from tail pipe that smells of antifreeze


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The car overheated today, and the mechanic said he found a large amount of mud in the radiator and hoses. What would cause this? Thanks!


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(without that nickel in there, blocks rust easily, reacting to the acid buildup as antifreeze deteriorates. Blocks and heads are also more prone to cracking as the nickel is very important, helping hold the iron together on a molecular level.
Flush the block really well, have the radiator flushed separately or it will plug up worse. I have seen some engines that were so badly rusted that the welch plugs needed to be removed to let the rust out. Or, replace it altogether.
Best thing you can do is change the antifreeze and do a simple water flush at least every two years.
If you don't you will be right back in the shop doing this same repair again!
OK, class dismissed!
Good luck!!

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Need to replace ignition switch


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You will see that the ignition switch/ steering lock is a grey casting held in by shiny bolts with no heads.
The easiest way to remove is to use a hacksaw and cut slots in the top of the bolts so that you can insert a flat bladed screwdriver and undo them ( this will involve cutting the casting as well, only cut enough to slot the bolts, don't cut the casting in half ! )
Some people prefer to use a pin punch and a hammer to tap the bolts around till the come loose, the choice is yours!
The loom is held into the lock mechanism by one phillips head bolt , undo this and remove the switch.
You are now ready to install your replacement lock.
Just repeat steps in reverse, make sure the lock part of the barrel sits neatly in the hole in the column before you tighten the bolts ( using the slots you cut earlier and a screwdriver.)
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86 ford 350/460 engine motorhome alternator for the coach squeals badly when driving. Removing it I struck a problem. The bolt across the top hit the radiator when pulled out. Do I have to remove the...


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