Question about 2001 Mercedes-Benz C-Class
Hi all, I bought a 2001 C240 recently (108k miles) (on 19th Jan.) from a local car dealer for $6000. I took it to the local Mercedes dealer for inspection and they told me there're plenty of things wrong with this car. The main problem they listed are: Rear Main Leaking Valve Covers Leaking Motor Mounts and Trans Idler Beltand Tension Miss fire in two cylinders (3 & 6). They told me that it would take about $4200 to fix all of these problems except miss fire in cylinders ( they need to do more diagnose in order to find out the real cause of miss fire in cylinders). The primary reason I bought this car was to drive from home to University and for daily chores. I am not sure how serious are these problems and what should I fix first or should I keep running the car because I just need to drive 15-20 miles a day. Also, do you guys think is it worth spending $4200 on this car or not? Thanks
Monitor oil leaks: keep fluids topped up. Consider repair if the leaks are major.
Replace / Check: Idler tensioner - if this belt breaks you won't have cooling and the battery won't charge.
Miss-Fire: find the root cause and remedy poor fuel economy and can damage other components like the catalytic converter and these are not check to replace.
Don't spend $4200 with Mercedes - find a reliable mechanic who will do the work at a more reasonable cost.
I have to assume that the car looked & drove well when you bought it otherwise it would still be on the lot. I think $4200 seems a bit steep - The dealer you bought it off may be able to recommend a mechanic see them first but if not them certainly see another mechanic other than Mercedes - if you don't have a mechanic you trust head towards a larger franchise business in Australia we have places like UltraTune & K-Mart.
As far as what I would tackle - I am not sure what "Leaking Motor Mounts" - but I will assume there are some leaks - I would be guessing minor ones from the motor. Even though they may sound bad they are probably your lowest priority if they are small you do need to keep an eye on them however and make sure your fluids are kept topped up.
Get the idler belt checked - they can be a pain to try to do yourself get the belt replaced. Then look at your miss-fires. Have new spark plugs put in regardless (is my opinion). See if there error still persists if so then most times it is ignition coils that is the problem a mechanic can check this by swapping the 3 & 6 coil to other cylinders and see if the error moves, replace the affected coil. If the error stays on 3 & 6 it is likely blocked / faulty injector.
Carsales.com.au (This is AU pricing) indicates that you bought within a good price bracket.
2001 Mercedes-Benz C240Average Private Price+$10,000 - $12,300Trade In Price Guide+$7,300 - $9,600Average km+180,000 - 300,000Price When New (RRP)+$73,500
I can see if I can find more prices these are ALFA ROMEO prices (indicative). Ignition Coil: $150 - $250ea; Spark Plugs: $15ea; Injector: Service / clean remove / replace: $600; New Fuel injector: $300. Labour in AU charged by mechanics is around $95 - $180 per hour.
Posted on Jan 23, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1993 mercedes sl300 convertable
The early 300 SL suffered from dodgy HT leads and spark plugs if not regularly maintained, the problem with Mercedes Benz though is that the cars have so many features that it is almost impossible to diagnose without seeing the car. Some things to try (in this order) are : - Spark plugs, Ht leads, remove and clean Distributer Cap, replacement of HFM sensor (common fault), if none of these help then faults have been known in throttle valves and fuel pumps/filters
Happy fault finding
Posted on May 25, 2008
Common causes for High-pitched noise from rear wheels are:
The wheel bearing: this is not usually dangerous in the short term, but I recommend contacting a mechanic and having it fixed. To test the wheel bearing, you lock front wheels, and jack up the car rear and spin the wheel (handbrake unlocked). If bearing is worn you hear a drone. When is the bearing, often car starts vibration above 40 mph.
Noise from bearing can be continuous, intermittent, only when steering, only when hot.
The brake pads: when brake pads are worn out they start making a squealing noise, in this case the noise is only when you brake or continuous. When you jack up the car the wheel may be a little stiff, but not necessarily.When brake pads are completely gone you also hear a scratching noise when braking. Inspect your brakes immediately.
Other suspension problems: Jack up the car as suggested above, check if the wheel has a slight play on the sides. Check all of the suspension components, suspension mounting points, and steering linkage for damage. Also, check the frame rail for wrinkles. It is very important that these components be in good condition, if you notice any problem here, go immediately to a mechanic.
Try doing the simple test above, reinstalling the wheel and working the tire back and forth. This is a common test for bad ball joints and wheel bearings.
Posted on Jul 17, 2008
they didn't line the motor up properly now ur transmission is at to much of an angle and it is making it slip
Posted on Dec 05, 2008
yes as far as i am aware they had a 30 year warrantee and changed it to 10 year (makes sense) was told this by merc owner (dad)
Posted on Jun 16, 2009
The code P2767 definition is ,
Transmission input shaft speed sensor?turbine shaft (TSS)sensor B no signal..
Now in English it means the speed sensor is either faulty or bad connection,I would suspect the sensor, but worth getting checked by a transmission specialist,
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
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