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Repair girmi FR 54. Engine starting but without rotation. How can I take apart the engine and check it? It doesn't come out and I cannot see possible screws.

I need to repair a girmi FR 54. The Engine can be started but there's no rotation. How can I take apart the engine and check it? I've opened the blender but the engine doesn't come out and I don't see possible screws that are (possibly) locking it. I've already removed the bottom plastic case.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Engine won't turn over

I can't get my engine to turn over. Battery and alternator have both been checked and are fine. No problems with any cables that I've been able to find either. Could this be a bad starter or fuse? Jumping does'nt work either.

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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  • 277 Answers

SOURCE: My 1994 Camry idling problem.? It's

If it runs fine and the idle is the only problem you could try idling it up some with the idle set screw on the throttle body it sounds like it may be a little bit out of time those toyotas have a fine lins on the timing.

Posted on Jul 03, 2011

Mr BrokRench
  • 1623 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 mercury villager check engine on with code 32

After awhile these idle screws don't have a lot of effect, the throttle body & injectors are also probably dirty. The 1.5 turns out from a soft seat is a starting point. Go another 1 to 1.5 turns out to find the sweet spot. Pour a can of Seafoam in with about 1/2 tank of gasoline. That will help clean the injectors & combustion chambers. Clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner, make sure there is no carbon around the edges of the butterfly and where it seats.
The knocking on starts is most likely from worn bearings. It will knock until oil pressure builds up & is circulating through the journals. I hope this helps.

Posted on Sep 24, 2011

qureshi1900
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SOURCE: I have changed the spark plugs on my 2005 C2 VTS and now when I start the car the engine warning light comes on and it beeps at me. Don't think I've done anything wrong, have checked everythin

try to recheck the spark plug distribution cable arrangement otherwise check your spark plug may be one of it is short or the gap is not proper.

Posted on May 04, 2012

davemaurer
  • 84 Answers

SOURCE: I've changed my engine mounts 3 times on my 2004 A4 cabreolet and they fail within miles(start to vibrate & then within a week, severe knocking) the 2nd time, also changed the ****** mount, 3r

Engine mounts do not go bad in five miles. Sounds like you're treating a symptom and not the cause of a more serious issue. Are you sure all cylinders are firing correctly? That the severe knocking is not coming from your engine internals? Have you checked the steel around the engine mounting points for cracks or other damage? And just in case, if the mounts you are using are poly, are you lubing them before installation?

Posted on Sep 03, 2012

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I doubt they did anything connected to replacing the starter to cause the engine to lock up, but I'm not there in person.
I would suggest having the car towed to another shop for a second opinion. If the engine is locked up someone will have to take it apart to find out why.

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Ck engine light stays on. Autozone says it is the camshaft sensor. I have pulled it apart and cleaned it with a qtip and alcohol, reset the battery and it has worked great. Now, it doesn't and my...


Gas milage (economy) is dependent upon the O2 Snsr's (oxygen Sensors) input to the ECU (Engine Control Unit). The cam position sensor, if malfunctioning, it should be replaced (cleaning it doesn't repair the problem which exists inside the component/sensor). Before you start throwing money after parts, Have a qualified/certified Hyundai Service Technician properly diagnose this issue.

Sep 10, 2011 | 2006 Hyundai Elantra

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I crank but doesn't start.With starting fluid does.Have gas in the fuel rail went cranking.I suspect the ecm,but doesn't sure


Make the FixYa experience better for everyone by voting.

Hi,

My name is Ben and I'm your guru, i.e., mentor, an influential teacher or popular expert: a management guru. - origin from Sanskrit, 'weighty, grave' for today.

As you evaluate my advise.solutions and suggestions, there are a few things you must keep in mind:

• I did not diagnose your problem and am therefore only able to evaluate what you tell me. For example, if you ask me a fuse location, that doesn't mean that I can tell you the reason why the fuse blew.
• A thorough diagnostic approach involves the use of technical equipment, such as voltage meters. scanning equipment and other sophisticated devices. Diagnostic tools can be borrowed from AutoZone for FREE:
• Lastly, fixing one problem can very easily reveal a problem with something that you might consider unrelated. If that happens, you might want to view me as being incompetent.

Subject: Engine will not start

Customer's exact description: I crank but doesn't start.With starting fluid does.Have gas in the fuel rail went cranking.I suspect the ecm,but doesn't sure

Discussion: The customer sggests a bad ECM but a code scan or code reader analysis will determine the true cause. A new ECM is going to cost in the neighborhood of $200-$300 but this would be a waste of money at this initial stage. The advice provided below is all inclusive but please do a complete code scan. Unfortunately, the customer has not supplied the make, model and year of the vehicle.

Possible Problem Hardware: Fuel pump; Fuel filter; Fuel pressure sensor, Faulty theft deterrent sysestem; or, Camshaft sensor.


This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter, a bad fuel pressure regulator or water in the fuel tank. Anyone who tells you that a modern vehicle can be diagnosed with the problems you have set forth is merely guessing. You car has a computer and memory and probably knows exactly what the problem is. That on-board computer is just waiting for you to ask, "

Immediately check the fuel pressure at the manifold, You should get a steady reading between 42 and 50 P.S.I. Autozone will loan you a pressure gauge. Yes, no charge.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

  • Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
  • Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
  • Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but remember that AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures therefore apply to most cars.

Step 1: Remember that anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.

The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner



Ben

Aug 17, 2011 | Toyota MR2 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

When accelerating under normal acceleration, the car misses. New plugs and wires.


Hi,

Improve the Fixya.com experience for everyone by voting!

NOTE: In order to perform a meaningful diagnosis, it is necessary to utilize either a code scanner or code reader. A test light, ohmmeter, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge and jumper wires may be required. You do not need any of the aforementioned items to inspect vacuum hoses, wiring, or disconnected plugs or adapters.

There is no such thing as one fix fixes all. Be forewarned that some repairs require ripping things apart and extensive testing, repairing or replacing items, This possibilities require a modicum of skill, patience and more. It's always best to take your vehicle to your service center.

But don't despair I'll attempt to provide you with steps to fix the issue. Hopefully, this will be satisfactory to you, If not, just let me know and I'll again try to remedy your problem.

Before undertaking any repair or diagnostic work, be sure to inspect wiring for proper connection, burned or worn/chafed spots, and cuts.

Be sure to check hoses that are hard to see beneath the air cleaner, compressor, alternator, etc.


The steps I'm going to outline are the same as we use in my shop for hesitation, sag and stumble. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank.


All of the tools required can be borrowed from AutoZone at NO COST!

Sensors:

• The sensors can be checked with an OBD-II code scanner borrowed from AutoZone. Pay special attention to an TP (Throttle Position) warnings. The sensor can be manually checked for binding or sticking.
• Check the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) found near the firewall and screwed into the exhaust manifold for signs of corrosion on the threads. That will cause a faulty ground.


Fuel System:

• Check the fuel pressure with that fuel pressure gauge from AutoZone. You reading should be 40-45 PSI and holding steady.
• Contaminated fuel is a constant problem and if the pressure does not hold steady, replace the fuel filter.



Additional Checks:

• Make certain that the engine thermostat is functioning and is the correct temperature.
• Make certain that the alternator voltage output is not less than 9 volts nor more than 17 volts.


Here's a little general information that will assist you in comprehending the readouts from the code scanner. This is simply for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.


If Your Engine Cranks but Does Not Start Follow this Troubleshooting Guide (This doesn't necessarily pertain to you but it's useful to know)

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.


Scan the system again after the vehicle is running. The reason is that non-related codes can be detected after the engine is running because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.


The Wells Company offers extensive code diagnosis application information and technical support via its Tech Line at 1-800-558-9770, as well as in-depth product and repair videos at www.repairpath.com (use my personal access code (carrepair) and through the "Wellstech" channel at www.YouTube.com

All the best,

Ben

Jul 21, 2011 | 2002 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

1985 Oldsmobile 98 will not start. Getting fire to the plugs but will not start


Hi,

Improve the Fixya.com experience for everyone by voting!

This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.

Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.

Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

Advisory for all GM built in the 1980's:

1980: General Motors implemented a proprietary interface and protocol for testing of the Engine Control Module (ECM) on the vehicle assembly line. The 'assembly line diagnostic link' (ALDL) protocol communicates at 160 baud with Pulse-width modulation (PWM) signaling and monitors very few vehicle systems. Implemented on California vehicles for the 1980 model year, and the rest of the United States in 1981, the ALDL was not intended for use outside the factory. The only available function for the owner is "Blinky Codes". By connecting pins A and B (with ignition key ON and engine OFF), the 'Check Engine Light' (CEL) blinks out a two-digit number that corresponds to a specific error condition. Cadillac (gasoline) fuel-injected vehicles, however, are equipped with actual
on-board diagnostics, providing trouble codes, actuator tests and sensor data through the new digital Electronic Climate Control display. Holding down 'Off' and 'Warmer' for several seconds activates the diagnostic mode without need for an external scan-tool.

Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.


The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner

All the best

Ben

Jun 07, 2011 | 1985 Oldsmobile 98

2 Answers

I just got a 1991 Dynasty Dodge knowing it needed repairs. Vehicle tries to start, but doesn't. Had starter replaced and the battery is pretty new. I'm not sure if it's the fuel pump, I'm...


Need to check if you have fuel pressure and spark, then you can go from there, don't just throw parts at it.
Spray brake cleaner in the intake to see if it starts, if it does start then this eliminates the spark, if it doesn't then check for spark, get back to me and let me know

May 19, 2011 | 1991 Dodge Dynasty

2 Answers

1990 ford mustang lx 5.0L Code 54 How do i fix this


Fault Code 54

Description: No fuel injector sync pickup signal during engine rotation
Power loss light: On
Limp-in mode: Logic module will guess at injector timing

Possible Causes:
Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the hall effect sensor (located underneath the distributer cap) and the logic module. Check the continuity of the two 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor--these are prone to fatiguing and breaking inside the insulation where they exit the sensor if the cables are not properly tied down. You may be able to resolder them. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.

Hall effect sensor failure - Check the two, flat 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor. These often fatigue where they exit from the sensor. Upon replacing the sensor, make sure the cables are clipped or tied to the distributor cap shroud (or elsewhere) so they do not swing around.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- Engine cranking or running (signal coming from ignition reference sensor)
- No signal from the fuel injector sync pickup sensor

Results If Component Fails
Fault code 54 is stored. The engine will stall and will not start.

Good luck.

Apr 22, 2011 | 1990 Ford Mustang

7 Answers

I have 05 volvo vnl 670, isx cummins 450/500. keeps losing power, check engine ECU comes on knowbody seems to know what it is. they just keep replacing sensors.


I have a 2007 Volvo 670. The check vehicle ecu comes on. The fault code is MID 144 PID 191 FMI 5. THe truck won't go pass 1400 rpm, the speedometer doesn't work, the cruise doesn't work, the engine break doesn't work. I have to turn the truck off going down the road at highway speed for about 10 seconds and it'll go back to normal. Can anybody help?

Feb 16, 2010 | 2005 Volvo XC90

1 Answer

Trouble code 54 on a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee


Carb'ed Engines:
Code 54 - Mixture Control (MC) solenoid is shorted or the ECM is faulty.

Fuel Injected Engines:
Code 54 - Camshaft (or distributor sync.) reference circuit - No camshaft position sensor signal detected during engine rotation.

Hope this helps

Mike

Jul 02, 2008 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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