87 FORD RANGER 2.9

Which engine and what type ignition system? How many miles on it? Timing chain or belt? don-ohio

look by the oil filter ,most senders leak when they go bad ,but not always

sounds like you got a sticky lifter i would get some valve and lifter cleaner you can find at any parts place

The 87 Ford Ranger 2.9L is chain driven. They dont have a timing belt. Now the 2.3L 87 Ranger were belt driven.

Have you checked it for spark when it dies? It sounds like a bad ignition module.

This is not what you wanted to hear. I had a Ranger (Emerald Green) The low oil pressure was caused most likely by a rod end bearing that was for some reason worn therefore leaving a gap in the bearing mating survaces so oil was running out the sides of the rod end bearing causing the low oil presure. The ticking that went crazy was the rod end bearing that destroyed itself and fell into the oil pan.

Quite possibly you now have a broken connecting rod as for the reason it shut down unless the engine computer sensed ZERO oil pressure and shut off the ignition.

I can tell you your problem is probably not the oil pump.

I see the following instore for you
1. head removal / valve resurfacing
2. crankshaft polishing
3. rod end bearing replacement and possibly resizing

The oil pump is the least of your problems.

Just being honest so you can understand what could be instore for you. Sadly it is not cheap.

You didn't post your engine size so please pick the one that works for you....I'll post them all separately:

2.3L Engine The oil pumps are not serviceable. If defective, they must be replaced.

1. Follow the service procedures under Oil Pan Removal and remove the oil pan assembly.
   
2. Remove the oil pick-up and tube assembly from the pump.
   
3. Remove the oil pump retainer bolts and remove the oil pump.
   

To install:

1. Prime the oil pump with clean engine oil by filling either the inlet or outlet port with clean engine oil. Rotate the pump shaft to distribute the oil within the pump body.
   
2. Install the pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 14-21 ft. lbs. (19-29 Nm)
   

WARNING Do not force the oil pump if it does not seat readily. The oil pump driveshaft may be misaligned with the distributor or shaft assembly. If the pump is tightened down with the driveshaft misaligned, damage to the pump could occur. To align, rotate the intermediate driveshaft into a new position.

1. Install the oil pick-up and tube assembly to the pump. If there is a gasket between the pump and the pick-up, use a new gasket when installing.
   
2. Install the oil pan as previously described.
   

Two things, Check the map sensor, Next check the Ignition Control
Module. I just fixed this problem on my 87 Ranver V6 2.9 two days ago.
it drove me nuts until I checked the module attached to the back of the distributor. There is a plug connected to it at the left side of the Distributor. Use a small screw driver to slip under the retainer clip on the rear of the module. Pry out, (be careful so as not to snap the plastic
retainer clip) Pry clip away from the module and pull the plug out.
There are two screws holding the module to the distributor. Ford has a special tool for removing the module. I did not use it. Remove the distributor cap, look inside to the back of the distributer. You will see where the screws are connected. Loosen the distributor locking device,
(retains the timing position) Then rotate until you can access the screws. Replace the module, then reverse the procedure. You will need to re-time the engine, unless you mark the distributor position and someplace below the distributor as a reference mark.
Good luck!
Hugh
jacshitt@mho.com

I will assume you are referring to the timing procedure for a replacement timing belt (4 cyl) or timing chain (V6) With the V6 timing chain you simply line up the timing marks on the two sprockets so that they are pointing directly toward each other, crankshaft sprocket with the mark pointing straight up, camshaft mark straight down. With the 2.3 L 4 cylinder engine, you must first position the crankshaft at TDC, and then position the oil pump and camshaft sprockets with their timing marks to line up with their respective marks on the inner cover. Install the belt and release the spring tensioner to let it adjust itself, tighten the tensioner bolt, and turn the engine over for 2 rotations (always clockwise as viewed from the front, never backwards). Make sure the marks still line up, loosen the tensioner, allow it to retension itself, and tighten the tensioner bolt. If the oil pump sprocket is not timed correctly, the camshaft position sensor signal will be incorrectly timed.

Possibly clearances "closing" at operating temparature? 20w50? Kinda heavy isn't it?Spun bearing - should make more noise than a "Tap"? I've heard several low and high mileage 2.9 engines "tap" but quits after warm up? That SEEMS to be somewhat common with the2.9 Sorry can't be more specific.