Question about 1992 Lincoln Mark VII

3 Answers

Rear brake problems in 1990 lincoln mark 7

I have front brakes, but no fluid to the rear brakes

Posted by on

  • 4 more comments 
  • kaciehope19 Jan 27, 2009

    i already tried bleeding the brakes. The front brakes work fine, but i cant get fluid to the rear brakes. The rear callipers are brand new, I just replaced them. I thought that would have been the problem

  • kaciehope19 Jan 27, 2009

    if the rubbers are swollen when I disconnect the rubber brake line from each calliper where it connects with the metal line and pump the brakes, shouldn't the fluid come out there?

  • kaciehope19 Jan 28, 2009

    i disconnected the rear rubber lines to calipers from the steele brake lines. there is still no fluid.



    should i disconnect rear brake line at master cylinder? By do



    By doing this, will air be drawn into the hcu?

  • kaciehope19 Jan 29, 2009

    I opened the rear brake line at the master cyl and no fluid or pressure.



    front brakes work fine and no amber or red brake lights on except at start of vehicle and then they go out.



    accumulator charged or not, still no fluid or pressure.



    No leaks in any lines, but no fluid in rear brake lines and cant get any even with vaccum pump bleeder kit.

  • kaciehope19 Jan 29, 2009

    I have an HCU master cyl integral type. It is a 4 wheel ABS system and has the control module in trunk for the ABS.



    The book tells me not to bleed this type of master cyl and that it must be bled in a shop.



    There has been no leaks and resevoir has maintained max level.



    The question is, is it the HCU unit itself, or just needs to be bled?

  • kaciehope19 Jan 29, 2009

    the abs light is not and was not on, except at the start of vehicle.



    i can't adjust the ebrake, have tried working the e-brake levers on the back of the calipers, but they won't push the out.



    Wouldn't I need fluid in them in order to adjust them?



    Or should they just ratchet out by working the e-brake levers?(new calipers installed)

×

3 Answers

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Corporal:

    An expert that has over 10 points.

    Problem Solver:

    An expert who has answered 5 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 6 Answers

Proper way to Bleed the brakes is as follows.

Jack up the car.remove the rear tires first. loosen the bleeder and attach a rubber tube and put that in a milk jug. You start with the drivers side rear. Get in the car and just hold the brake peddle 1/2 way down. When you see clear fluid (did I mention you will need several bottles of fluid) If you have a friend helping you, have them keep the resovour full. when the fluid is clear , do the other side the same way. The front calipers you need to pump like regular calipers.

If you need more info, try the forum at http://www.thelincolnmarkviiclub.org
Under brakes you find a wealth of knowledge.

Posted on Mar 22, 2010

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 2 Answers

HAHA, funny. when you bleed the brakes on a lincoln mark, you have to have the key turned to the on position for the rear brake bleed or nothing will come out no matter what you do. you can leave the bleeders open for a decade and nothing will come out. Turn the key to on, but do NOT start the car, then proceed with the bleeding as you would the front.

Posted on May 10, 2009

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

    Corporal:

    An expert that has over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

  • Expert
  • 58 Answers

My first guess at that would be you have a air bubble it the master cylinder. have you left something out like a repair you just performed or something ?

sound like air anyhow or a bad master cylinder.

what to try is this fill up the brake reservoir and open both rear bleeders

walk away for a few hours or put a pan to catch fluid and go to bed

this should start a gravity bleed on the brakes brake, fluid level should be lower in the morning if not empty lol.

have someone pump the brakes hold the pedal down on the last pump and while they hold the pedal down crack the bleeder, ( he must keep pedal on the floor till you tighten the bleeder back up

then he can let up on the pedal and y'all do this again and again till while he hold the pedal down and you open the bleeder, you have no momre air coming out. good luck

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

  • 4 more comments 
  • robert kious Jan 27, 2009

    ok i know what your problem is



    i have seen this on front caliper lines



    if you have rubber lines that jump the steel brakee fluid line to your cylinder/ it may be swollen closed

    then you would replace the line



    but first lets isolate the problem go to your master cylinder and lossen the line that feeds the rear.

    rule of thumb the front brake res operates the the rear (may not be in this case) and the rear portion of master cyler operates the front pads.



    crack a line one at a time and have someone push on the brake does it come out ?

    on both lines ?



    if yes then you have a restrition in your hydralic lines ( hence swollen rubber) or crushed line

    let me know good luck

  • robert kious Jan 28, 2009

    if you where to remove the rubber line all the way lets say.

    does fluid come out ?



    if you open the line before the rubber line yes fluid should come out. if it does then its the rubber line.



    if it does not then it is somthing else



    simple the master cylinder check fluid comes out ?



    if so jump to rear of system check before those rubber lines

  • robert kious Jan 29, 2009

    yes, do crack (not remove) that fitting at the master cyl.

  • robert kious Jan 29, 2009

    OK now you have gone this far. there are only two possible causes at this point. if you cracked rear line at master cylinder and got no air or fluid. that means either you have air in your master cylinder.

    which can happen if you have a fluid leak and the fluid drains out (gravity bleed) and you then step on the brake and release and when you release it sucks air. if that's the case then you need to remove the master cyl and bench bleed it. (unless your good enough and have a helper you can bleed it in the car). and this is how you bench bleed a master cyl. you have to hook up clear lines to the master cylinder outlets you take the clear tubes and direct them back into the master cylinder reservoir. then very slowly ( i do mean very slow) slower then snail snot. press the brake pedal or the master cylinder plunger in ( if bench bleeding lock into vice) . now as you push very slow you will c little air bubbles in the clear line. here is the fun part. a bubble game. you have to work all the little air bubbles out. but you will find that they push out slow but **** back in very fast. hence the slow push on the rod. and when you c a air bubble STOP and let it float to the top of clear line then try to push it out. slow of course. repeat all this until no more bubbles. i am sure your local parts store can help you out.





    now if none of that is the case then you need a master cyl. as its internal seal are no longer working properly

  • robert kious Jan 29, 2009

    hcu are you saying that you have abs with a hcu hydraulic control unit ? friend, if you have cracked the line for the rear brakes at the master cylinder and fluid dripped. and you have a abs module, and there has been no breach in the brake fluid system. is your abs light on ?



    i have only one last suggestion for you, is that if the abs unit valve for the rear brakes is stuck open and just vents the fluid. as if the abs was actuating.



    last ditch effort is this, if the valve is stuck open and there is no abs light.



    drive down the road gravel would be best. and rip or stop the &%k out of the e-brake and cause a rear wheel lock-up going no faster then 20 KO. this should activate your rear abs , and hence perhaps

    just maybe that valve will jar itself loose.

  • robert kious Jan 30, 2009

    you need a master cylinder. if you cracked it at the master cylinder and nothing happened.



    then try to just leave it cracked see if you can get it to gravity bleed.



    don't WOORY bout the abs unit. i have bleed many a brakes and went right past the ecu, and yes even cracking lines



    if the gravity bleed do,'t work try a little pressure compressed or or mouth to mouth :)



    i think you may need to replace the master cylinder, that's what it all points to. sorry

×

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Rear passenger brake dosen't work


Are there two brake fluid reservoirs? And are both full? This would be a split-diagonal brake system-front driver and rear passenger are one brake system. Front passenger and rear driver are the other system. You have the one system working-the front passenger and rear driver side works. You will have to keep bleeding the rear passenger side and the front driver side-always start farthest from the master cylinder, but if that wheel just won't bleed air out, make sure the driver front is working and bleeds good. If all else fails, there are pressure bleeder kits available, I don't know the cost, but they work great. They are also a one man bleeding job, as I understand.

Dec 10, 2013 | 2000 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

What is a brake proportion valve function


Front brakes require different fluid pressure than the rear, as more of the braking is done by the front brakes, because of vehicle weight shifting forward during braking, etc.

Proportioning valves are used in cars to reduce the fluid pressure to the rear brakes, to reduce rear wheel lock-up.

Oct 02, 2013 | Cadillac DeVille Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1990 Reatta. Replaced all calipers and hoses. Cannot get fluid to rear brakes. Porportioning valve is OK. No fluid coming to it. Is there a way to cycle the master cylinder valves to cycle fluid...


I would try replaceing the master clylender and rebleed the brakes start at the right rear have some one help you press the brake paddle down and hold it open bleeder its where the brake line connects to the brakes looks like a greese fitting open the bleeder then close it let brake paddle back up repeat until you have fluid comeing out of bleeder go to the left rear do the same then right front to left front

Aug 23, 2011 | 1990 Buick Reatta

1 Answer

Front brakes lock up


Hi and welcome to FixYa!

I strongly suggest that the front brakes be overhauled. If the oil seal of the brake piston is worn out the brakes tends to lock. The brake piston should be replaced to obtain optimum performance and to prevent accidents.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Jan 26, 2011 | 1990 Lincoln Mark VII

3 Answers

Brakes are going to the floor most of the way checked rear brakes and they are still good bleed them and problem still there


Normally when the brake pedal goes almos to the floor it is an indication of low brake fluid. Low brake fluid is an indication that front and/or rear brakes are wearing. As the brake pads wear down more brake fluid will be required in the wheel cylinders or calipers. Hint, the front brakes usually wear much faster than the rear due to the fact that the fronts due a much greater braking function that the rear. Check the front pads. Don't let them get down to the metal scraping metal stage before you change them out. This causes unnessary damage to the rotors. Look at your master cylinder on the firewall under the hood in front of the steering wheel. If the fluid level is belowhte "max" mark add fluid. Low fliud should also show as a red "brake" light on your dash, but not always.

Sep 08, 2010 | 1994 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Brakes only working on driver side, rear and front, no brakes on passenger side rear and front. fluid good, lines good.


There only a few things that would cause this that you need to check, first start at the front wheel that doesnt work, have someone applie the brake open the bleeder screw if fluid sprays then caliper is bad or caliper slides are frozen, if no fluid comes out then you have a bad brake hose at that wheel, do the same to rear if fluid comes out of bleeder in rear then wheel cylinders are no good if no fluid comes out then brake hose to rear wheels is no good, make sure to have pedal pressed and repush pedal when checking the rear. hope this helps.

Aug 28, 2010 | 1994 Plymouth Voyager

2 Answers

I replaced the brake master cylinder on my 91 Lincoln Mark 7 with a non high pressure master cylinder and the rear brakes do not hold. Do I need to change the cal. on the rear also?


ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (and HCU-Hydraulic Control Unit)
General Information The 4-Wheel Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is an electronically operated, all wheel brake control system. Major components include the power brake booster, master cylinder, the wheel speed sensors, and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) which contains the control module, a relay, and the pressure control valves. The system is designed to ****** wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip when braking. Retarding wheel lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the wheel brake units. When the control module detects a variation in voltage across the wheel speed sensors, the ABS is activated. The control module opens and closes various valves located inside the HCU. These valves, called dump and isolation valves, modulate the hydraulic pressure to the wheels by applying and venting the pressure to the brake fluid circuits. Some models are equipped with a Traction Assist (TA) system. The TA system senses wheel spin upon acceleration, turns on the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) pump and applies fluid pressure to the appropriate rear wheel. Two additional isolation valves in the HCU will also close to permit fluid to flow only to the rear wheels. The TA system monitors TA usage to avoid overheating the rear brakes. If the system does sense brake overheating, the ABS module will inhibit TA operation until the rear brakes are permitted to cool down.
---
SYSTEM COMPONENTS The anti-lock brake system consists of the following components:
  • Vacuum booster and master cylinder assembly
  • Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
  • ABS module
  • Wheel sensors
  • Pedal travel switch
---
On 1992-1994 and 1995-00 a scanner is used to perform the brake bleed. But on yours, I think it's different according to the manual.
---
What do you mean change the cal. on the rear also? Do you mean Caliper?

Jul 26, 2010 | 1991 Lincoln Mark VII

1 Answer

95 nissan altima brake light on ?


hello, check make sure, emergency brake handle is all the way down, check brake fluid, usually when light comes on you are low on brake fluid, also have front brakes,rear brakes checked out, you may need new brakes on front or rear, make sure there is know brake fluid leaking from your master cyclinder under the hood where you put fluid in brake resivor

Apr 08, 2010 | 1995 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

Abs brake light on, brake light too, hard pedal, new pads and good rotors, no pressure to rear calipers? Fluid level went low, somewhere, than came back, overflowing after filling. No body can find parts...


actually you may not need to replace any parts. from what you are explaining on the vehicle you have a air lock in your brake lines. try and bleed the brakes again starting from the rear passenger than the drivers passenger than the passengers front and last the drivers front. than disconnect the negative battery cable for about 5 min to reset the lights and see what happens. please let me know if you need more assistance with this problem.
please do not forget to rate and comment about your expereince with fixya today.

Dec 27, 2009 | 1990 Lincoln Mark VII

Not finding what you are looking for?
1992 Lincoln Mark VII Logo

929 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Lincoln Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

64052 Answers

Fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5331 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

21990 Answers

Are you a Lincoln Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...