Question about 2000 Toyota Corolla

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Wheels locking up change 2 complete spindle booster also cylinder not'g

Change mast oil cylinder/boxl bleed same thing

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  • Toyota Master
  • 1,632 Answers

Bleed ABS valve .

Posted on Jan 23, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

mecanica03
  • 881 Answers

SOURCE: bleed brakes on 2003 toyota corolla

i try to help you, firts refill brake fluid container,open purge valve in one wheel front only,wait few minutes when drops fluid, close this valve and open other wheel, same procedure, finally repeat this in each 4 wheels

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

  • 1509 Answers

SOURCE: replaced with new master cylinder,bench

Seems like your on the right path, Maybe the technique is wrong. Have you installed a master cyclinder and then bled the brakes on something else and it worked good? Most of the time if your not useing a power bleeder ( you don't need one ) you need two peale to do this job good. With your pedal pumper friend at the wheel, Have him (or her) pump the brakes several times making sure to let the pedel come all the way up. ( can you make sure that the pedel is coming all the way up, as it's adjustable at the pedel ) the pedal need not hold the master down at all . With this checked and it pumped up and the pumper hold ing the pedal down, Loosen a break line wher it connects to the master cyclinder, Listen and watch for air as the pedel goes down, keep the pedal down till you tighten the line back up. Have your pumper person pump it back up again, then do another line, no air and it's still bad, move on to the rear wheels first. Every time you let out some fluild check to see if it's full and fill it as this takes some fluild to get-r-dun. Have your pumper pump till they get as much pedal as they can and hold it down and open the bleeder and tighten it back as before with the pedal still down. Do it several times till no evidence of fluild haveing air bubles is gone ( straight fluild ) Do all the bleeders this way, making sure you don't run out of fluild. Wipe everything off and make sure it's full as you work. Now all this work is after you've done a complete brake teardown right? The rear shoes should be touching the drums ( very lightly ) The front brake pads have plenty of pad and the roters are smooth and unscored. If the rotors are rough they make the pistons return too far as you let up on the pedal and give a all the way down feeling. The rear shoes trying to move much will also do this. The drum being bell shaped is often the cause of this, A rear wheel cyclinder leaking may not leak out onto the tire but introduce air that undoes the bleed job.

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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Replace mast curl and brake booster still cant stop. Removed rear tires dont look as if im getting fluid on rear on either side


Did you bleed the brake system properly after the work? You have to bleed the brakes to get all the air out of the system. You start at the master cylinder, and then at each wheel- starting at the one farthest away and ending at the driver's front wheel. This is the only way to push all the air out of the system and get good braking.

Watch a video on youtube if not familiar with how to do it. And don't forget: you know where you attached the steel lines to the master cylinder? There can still be an air pocket there. That is where you bleed the master cylinder at- just crack the line open enough turns to expel air while someone slowly presses the brake, then tighten fitting and repeat until only fluid squirts out. Any time or anywhere you have to break into a brake line, you have introduced air into the system.

Jun 22, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Brakes are hard to depress causing stopping problem


1: inspect all brake linings first.
no pulling left or right braking?
the car has 100% full manual brakes. if the brake booster fails.
(its only and assist !!! for 50lb small folks)
so does it? it takes more pedal pressure but has 100% full braking.
this is no accident its by design.
make sure none of the brake shoes/pads are soaked in DoT3/4 fluid
or grease or gear oil.
and no brake fluid leaks end to end, this is really #1 on all cars.
look, then look again. even behind and in front of the master cylinder.
look at tires (inside for fluid leaks>)
2: do the booster test. did the vacuum hose to it fall off?
or got pinched, or ?

google brake booster test
if ABS system. get it all checked,
if ABS get the ABS scanned.

if you cant stop correctly,,,,???? , dont drive.
get it fixed.

May 06, 2014 | 1999 Jeep Wrangler

3 Answers

92 accord no brakes when car first started


Hi Monroe, It sounds as if there is an air leakage into the brake system. It would be a good idea to have a look under the vehicle and discover if there is a leakage and from which wheel cylinder or cylinders. you'll be able to identify the wheel or wheels because the inside of the rim and tyre will appear wet. You will need to replace the damaged brake slave cylinder(s) which will mean a major brake rehabilitation job. If the leakage has come from the wheels, I would suggest you replace the shoes and pads at the same time. Make a drawing not a photograph. If you draw the parts you'll take more notice of the assembly and be able to reassemble more easily. You do not need a new booster! but you may need a new master cylinder in addition to the wheel cylinders. If you need to know how to bleed the brakes let me know and I'll explain. regards John

Feb 15, 2012 | 1992 Honda Accord

2 Answers

I install reman booster new master cylinder and the pedal goes to the floor what can i do


You probably need to start over...1st by bench bleeding the master cylinder...(you can do this on your truck...review the bleeding instructions...after completing this you need to be sure the master cylinder is full of brake fluid...you will need a helper...but your next step will be to bleed each wheel brake caliper or cylinder. Start with the right rear, next left rear, then right front to drivers side front...(farthest away to start) you may have a brake fluid leak...if not, your pedal pressure should continually raise...Hope this helps.

Nov 16, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

1 Answer

How to remove a master brake cylinder on a 2000 ford taurus


Use line wrenches if possible,but a good open end will probably work to loosen lines.Use a socket to loosen mounting bolts and remove the cylinder straight forward.
The lines should be plugged to keep out dirt and air.Use golf tees or rubber boots that are made for vacuum lines to keep dirt out.
If replacing the master cylinder,make sure the piston end is the same distance into the booster as the old one.If there's a difference,you can adjust the actuating rod on the booster so it's the same.Bolt it back on,attach the lines,fill with fluid and there is probably a bleeder screw on the cylinder.Always bleed brakes with 2 people.As the person pushes the brake down,the mechanic loosens the bleeder,then tightens it before the person lets the pedal up.Repeat this a coupla' times, and do a 4 wheel brake bleed to purge all air,whi.le you add brake fluid all the while when needed.Do not EVER let the master cylinder go dry while bleeding this way(the old fashioned way) Protect your eyes while bleeding fluid. don-ohio

Oct 02, 2011 | 2000 Ford Taurus

8 Answers

Changed calipers rotrs pads still no brake presure wont pump up to bleed air out of lines could master cylinder or booster be bad


Booster is okay, you have to bench bleed the MC, first. So, since it is installed, bleed it with a kit from the parts store, little plastic hoses screw in to the brake hose fittings, and put other end under fluid in reservoir. pump slowly, especially wait at end of release, for fluid to refill piston chamber....pump until no bubbles...

FROM THIS POINT you must not allow fluid in reservoir to go low, or start all over again....

Now bleed the brakes and you will eventually get pressure.

Mar 01, 2011 | 1998 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

Experienceing loss of power to brakes


1. What is the Brake Fluid Level?
2. Are you losing any Brake fluid at all? Are there any puddles or noticeable wetness on the ground or on the tires/wheels? With vehicle parked, the reservoir filled (overfilled), and engine running: pump the brakes and check on the ground and back sides (inside portions) of the wheels. Look for any brake fluid leaks.
3. Leaks from Calipers usually means a leak from the caliper piston. The rubber seals will be wet.
Leaks from Drums usually means a leak from the wheel cylinder.
4. In any case of leaks from the wheels - replace the calliper OR wheel cylinder.
For caliper leaks: change the brake pads, and clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
For drum leaks: clean the drum and brake hardware with brake cleaner, and replace the shoes.
5. If no leak is detected from the wheel area's: check under the Master Cylinder for wetness indicating a possible leak.
6. If no leak can be found: you MAY have a rear seal leak in the Master Cylinder which is pumping Brake Fluid into the Brake Booster (that large disk looking thing attached to the fire wall, attached to the Master Cylinder in front).
a. Use a large drip/catch pan under the Van in the area on the Master Cylinder.
b. Disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder using a flair wrench.
c. Remove the two nuts (12 or 13mm?) attaching the Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. If you have been using a lot of fluid, and have found no leaks, here is a good possibilty that all that brake fluid has collected in the Booster; so when you detach the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster, all that fluid will come rushing out!
7. If there is Brake Fluid inside the Brake Booster: there is no cleaning that out. Brake Fluid is very caustic to the seals inside the Booster and should be replaced.
8. Of course the Master Cylinder will also have to be replaced.
9. After replacing the Master Cylinder/Brake Booster - make sure you get all that spilled brake fluid off the engine compartment area parts! I use a brake cleaner, then mild soap and then water to rinse. Clean any Brake Fluid off Paint imediatley as it will quickly dissolves finishes and paint.
10. If no leak is detected and the Booster is clear, there may be problems with the Booster One-Way Valve. This is attached to the outside of the Booster and has a hose from an "advance" connected to it. This maybe malfunctioning where you are losing power. Replace this first before deciding to replace the whole booster (in cases of NON-LEAKS ONLY). If that did not work, there may be inner seals inside the Booster that have failed. That means a new Booster.
11. In any of the above cases: Make sure you bleed the Master Cylinder correctly and bleed the brakes (at each affected wheel) correctly. Any air in the brake lines will decrease your braking proficiency or could result in brake failure.

Let me know if this helped or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Dec 10, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

I think I need to replace my brake booster.


Did you bench bleed the master before you installed it???? Engine off, have someone push the brake petal down and hold it down while you crack the brake line loose at the master,then tighten it and let up on the petal.Do this several times for each of the 2 lines at the master, only cracking it when the petal is being held all the way down.Repeat...Do them separately.Have some rags below the master to mop up the mess and keep the master from running out of fluid. Then do the gravity bleed one more time on each wheel cyl. and watch for a bubble of 2.
I hope this helps you.
Yes the booster sounds fine.

Sep 22, 2009 | Chevrolet El Camino Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

BRAKE BOOSTER?


A bad brake booster will result in a hard brake pedal, stiff and more effort required to stop the truck. Here are my questions to you, first, you said you replaced the master cylinder, did you bench bleed it before you installed it? If not, there IS still air in it, regardless of how much you bleed the brakes at the wheels. Second, when you bled the brakes, after changing the calipers and master cyl., did you also bleed the proportioning valve? Sometimes air can get trapped in the valve, and its almost impossible to get it out bleeding just the wheels. And lastly, when the brake light comes on, does the abs light also come on with it? Air can also get trapped in the abs control module too.

Aug 11, 2009 | Chevrolet Tahoe Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Replaced the brake booster how do you adjust for


Possibly the Proportioning valve. its where the lines go after the master. it has a bleeder screw of some sort on it. The pins inside wear out and stick causing uneven pressure. Replace or rebuild it if that be the case. Also chect the master for fluid leaks at the end of the piston where it connects to the booster push rod. If its leaking rebuild or replace it. 

Aug 09, 2009 | 1994 Honda Accord

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