Question about Dodge Ram 1500

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I have a 2007 Dodge Ram 1500. I had to replace the front brake pads, rotors and calipers. After bleeding the brakes I still have a soft pedal. when pressing it the pressure builds up but after pumping then releasing them they go right back to being soft. I replaced the master cylinder and still having the same issue also when pressing on the brake pedal I hear a squishing sound like it is releasing air. Any ideas?

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  • Dodge Master
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Make sure there is no run out with the rotors , if there is it will move the caliper pistons in and you will have to pump the brakes to move them back out every time. It is best to use a pressure bleeder to make sure all air is removed.

Posted on Mar 09, 2015

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Bench bleed the master cylinder then start bleeding at the rear passenger then rear driver, front passenger then finally front driver hopefully that helps you

Posted on Jan 23, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Mustang GT rear brake job

yep this is a two man job, onece you get air in the lines is better to do all four, my has abs and i was able to do it, but next time don't take anylines lose just turn the piston clockwise and you should be able to push it in.

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

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SOURCE: 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee, hear air bubbling out

First, inspect all lines and fittings for seepage. If fluid is getting out anywhere, air is entering system as well. Fill the master cylinder and bleed it first. Make sure that when bleeding someone is holding pedal down until after you have closed each bleeder screw.(applies to all bleeders). Bleed the right rear, then l/r, r/f then l/f. While doing this keep checking master to make sure it does not run dry at any point. Make sure that at each wheel there is no more air coming out before you continue on to next one. Sometimes if there is an excessive amount of air, it's good to go around to each wheel twice.(use a small box wrench on bleeders if possible so you can actually see what's coming out.(Another way of doing this is to use a small section of plastic tubing like fish tank air hose, and attach it to end of bleeder (sometimes if hose is too small, it can be warmed in hot water so it expands over nipple.) put the free end in a glass jar with some fluid in it, keeping the hose in the fluid to prevent air from entering, using this method abslolutely prevents air from getting into system while bleeding)
Other causes of low pedal are worn rotors or drums and improperly adjusted rear brakes. If you have ABS, all of this applies but there may be a problem with abs system (usually will turn on abs warning light)
good luck

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

c17hydro
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SOURCE: 1996 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER SOFT BRAKE PEDAL AIR IN LINES

I am a hydraulic technician and I can tell you that air is a killer in the hydraulic system.

Start from the rear and work your way forward. I f you are using the two person method, make sure the second person keeps the master cylinder full. If the fluid level dropped anywhere in between pressing and releasing the brakes....you have a lot of air in the system.

Make sure you are tightening the bleed valve when the brake pedal is full pressed.

Remeber...start from the rear brakes first, then do the front.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

  • 1779 Answers

SOURCE: bleed brakes but no pedal

Good! You bled the master cyl. before installation! The proper order of bleeding the lines, is to start with the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder. Then work your way to the next greatest distance, and last, the closest wheel. Make sure all air is removed from the lines before you proceed to the next wheel, and frequently check the master cyl. level, because, as I'm sure you know, if you **** in air at the master, you have to start all over again. I'm assuming you don't have a power bleeder, so with a helper do this with car running (make sure it's on safety stands and not going to fall on you!) Pump pedal 3 times, no need to mash the pedal into the floor, just 3 pumps 1/2 way down, hold 3rd pump at half way down level while bleeder is opened, when flow is about to stop at bleeder, close bleeder and repeat til no evidence of any air. Let me know how it goes and if you need any help.

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

johnjohn2
  • 5763 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Brake Problem. Brake

This may sound dum but its been done a few times and is a simple mistake , the bleeder screw is up top, with the caliper on the bleeder screw should be up top, if not then calipers are on the wrong side, it sounds like air in the system, also you pumped the pedal up to push out the piston so pads hit rotor after bleeding,i dont see anything else, if the pedal is good with pinched lines at caliper then it got to be calipers are wrong or on the wrong side and the bleeder is not atop caliper,also you bleed the rear also? these trucks and cars use left caliper and rt rear on one system of the master and rt front and left rear on one side, let me know about the caliper, heres a picture to show you what i mean. hope this helpsjohnjohn2_23.jpg

Posted on Nov 16, 2010

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