Question about GMC Cars & Trucks
If you know for a fact the alternator is good, the problem could be a bad connection between the alternator and the dash, or the alternator and the battery.
Posted on Jan 23, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First of all...does your truck have the retained accessory power (RAP)? If it does, the radio would always stay on with the key off until you open the drivers door. If it does have RAP and the door pin on the drivers door has went bad, then the truck doesn't know that you opened the door and continues to allow accessory power (although it would still cut off after about 20 minutes). If the interior lights come on when you open the door, then the pin is ok. If the lights come on, it could be the RAP relay. If it has gone bad, it is possible it is stuck supplying power and needs replacing. The relay should be labeled in the fuse panel, and there should be other relays in the panel with the same part number. You can swap a relay for the RAP relay and see if it fixes the problem...if it does fix it swap the relays back and replace the RAP relay. If the truck doesn't have RAP then it is possible the problem is in the radio..if you have a friend with a GM car or truck close to the same year you could swap radios and see if that fixes your problem...should be pretty simple. pull the cover off the dash, it just clips on, take out a couple screws that hold in the radio, unplug it and plug in the other radio. sorry so long winded...hope this helps you somewhat.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
your heat/cool and vent selection options are controlled by engine vacuum through small clear tubes attached to the rear of your climate control interface. Other vehicles have small steel pull wires that operate the desired changes. You might try removing the trim and any fasteners affiliated with the interface/console. GENTLY pull outward and look to see if any of these tubes are pulled off or cut/damaged. Did anyone recently install a new stereo in the vehicle? If so, the vacuum tubing and or pull wires that change your outlets could have been damaged when the stereo unit was pushed into place. Hope this helps
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
Testimonial: "Very good information. THANKS!"
1. Close all doors
2. Insert key into ignition
3. Hold down the power UNLOCK button on the driver's door panel, continue to hold down
until instructed to release in step 9.
4. Perform steps 5 through 8 in a fairly rapid succession.
5. Turn the ignition to the ON position (as far as you can go without starting the engine.)
6. Turn the ignition to the OFF position.
7. Turn the ignition to the ON position (as far as you can go without starting the engine.)
8. Turn the ignition to the OFF position.
9. Release the power UNLOCK button on the door panel. The vehicle should respond by
door locks locking and unlocking automatically. (If locks do not cycle after you let go,
not before you let go of the unlock button, then the vehicle has not entered programming
mode and you must start procedure over. Remove key from ignition, open drivers door
and return to step 1 ). If the locks do cycle automatically then proceed to step 10.
10. Hold down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the remote until the doors lock and
unlock. This may take up to 30 seconds.
11. Repeat step 10 NOW for each additional remote. (Including any existing remotes).
12. Turn the ignition to the ON position to exit the programming mode.
13. Test remote(s).
Posted on Mar 06, 2010
have it tested using a manual gage if still low then main baring ore most likely bad that would mean a over hall if is really low and bearings bad should be making rattle noise when started up first few seconds
Posted on Mar 11, 2010
Testimonial: "thanks alot.truck is not making a rattling noise.we did check it with a manual gauge.it read about 10 at idol. press. gets better as you incr speed"
.0L Torque Specs Belhousing to engine bolts 28-38 ft/lbs Camshaft sprocket bolt 40-45 ft/lbs Camshaft thrust plate to engine block bolts 108-144 in/lbs Crankshaft pulley to vibration damper bolts 35-50 ft/lbs Cylinder head bolts -1979-1992 --Step 1 55-65 ft/lbs --Step 2 65-72 ft/lbs -1993-up --Step 1 25-35 ft/lbs --Step 2 45-55 ft/lbs --Step 3 75-85 ft/lbs Differential shaft lock bolt 15-30 ft/lbs Driveshaft U-joint to pinion flange bolts 70-95 ft/lbs Exhaust manifold bolts 26-32 ft/lbs Flywheel mounting bolts 75-85 ft/lbs Front engine mount nuts 72-98 ft/lbs Intake manifold to head bolts --Step 1 96 in/lbs --Step 2 16ft/lbs --Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs Intake manifold (upper intake to lower) 12-18 ft/lbs Oil filter insert to engine block adapter bolt 20-30 ft/lbs Oil pan mounting bolts -1979 --Step 1 (Large bolts) 11-13 ft/lbs --Step 1 (Short bolts) 7-9 ft/lbs --Step 2 (Large Bolts) 15-17 ft/lbs --Step 2 (Short Bolts) 10-12 ft/lbs -1980 to 1987 9-11 ft/lbs -1988 to 1993 6-9 ft/lbs -1994-up 110-144 in/lbs Oil pickup tube to main bearing cap nut 22-32 ft/lbs Oil pickup tube to oil pump bolts -1979 to 1987 10-15 ft/lbs -1988-up 12-18 ft/lbs Oil pump mounting bolts 22-32 ft/lbs Pinion bearing preload 8-14 in/lbs Pressure plate to flywheel bolts 12-24 ft/lbs Rocker arm fulcrm bolts 18-25 ft/lbs Spark plugs 7-14 ft/lbs Timing chain cover bolts 12-18 ft/lbs Vibration damper to crackshaft bolt 110-130 ft/lbs Wheel lug nuts 85-105 ft/lbs
Posted on Mar 16, 2010
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