Question about Cars & Trucks
Need to hotwire my vehicle
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that when you park the car, you pull up the hand (park) brake, shift from drive straight to park and then take your foot off the foot brake and the car moves slightly as it transfers the weight of the car from the foot brakes to, in your case, the transmission rather than the park brake.
Most people do.
When you do this, you're usually putting the weight of the car onto a small lever engaging notches on the drive shaft in the transmission, not the hand brake. The hand brake's designed to hold the car, the lever isn't, it's there just-in-case.
Take a look at http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission5.htm to see how flimsy this part is.
For what it's worth, to avoid doing this damage to automatic transmissions whenever I'm stuck in one, I shift to Neutral then take my foot off the foot brake, then the car moves as it's weight shifts from the foot brake to the park brake which I often haven't pulled hard enough. Only when, in neutral, the car is stationary without the foot brake do I put it in park.
In Australia, it became illegal a couple of years ago to not be in the driver's seat when the engine's running. My understanding is that this was because, when the engine's running, sometimes older Automatic transmissions damaged in this way can shift out of Park. This is believed to be what has happened when you see unoccupied cars reversing in circles on "wildest police video" programs on TV. I also heard of some Borg-Warner automatic transmissions fitted to 80s model Ford Falcons (common in Australia), 70s model German saloons, which were particularly prone to Park failing to hold the car on a slope. I drove one for many years in a '75 BMW 528 in which some of it's other drivers developed the same habit.
Similarly, in my own car, I don't take my foot off the clutch until I've taken it off the brake without the car moving. Though the local Road & Traffic Authority regulation states "First gear if you're facing uphill, Reverse if you're facing downhill" I do the opposite because whatever damage might be done to panels will be cheaper than what would be done to the engine if the hand brake failed and it's not going to make much difference in slowing down a rolling car, especially with this one.
Mazda BA Astina V6.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
If you mean actually replacing the ignition switch on the vehicle with a locking column. You need to do this. Dicconnect the battery, remove the lower panel of the dash if there is any. There is a bolt on the steering column near the fire wall on most vehicles, remove this bolt, it will release the spline on the steering column. Disconnect all wiring going to the column, unbolt the column from the dash support. Remove the column from the truck, on the ignition switch you will see where the two shear bolts screw the assembly together, center punch the center of each bolt. Now drill the bolt with a 1/8" drill about 1/4" to 3/8" deep. Now use a 3/8" drill and drill out the shear head until it comes off the bolt. You can now remove the switch assembly from the column. The new assembly should come with new shear off bolts so when you bolt it in place when tightned they will break off rendering it tamperproof again. Most vehicles are designed like this now to stop theft. Check the column for operation before reinstalling it in the reverse of above. You just want to make sure the key locks and unlocks the column before reinstalling in the vehicle. You may want to do this before you totally tighten the bolts and break them off permanently. Good luck, RAC
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
You won't be able to hotwire it due to the passlock antitheft system. Read about it in this link.
Posted on Nov 16, 2011
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