Question about Ford F-350
The plastic gear on actuator arm wont release out of housing
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I hope you have this thing fixed but if not you can try this.
First I need to assume the "lock cylinder" will turn with the correct key installed.?
You must turn the lock cyl to the run position. I suggest disconnecting the battery first.
I pull the radio out to gain access to the ign. switch.
If you have a small mirror it will really help to find a small square hole in the top of the "plastic" part, "the ign. switch".
If replacing only the lock cylinder you will NOT need to take the 2 screws out holding the plastic piece to the dash.
You will need a tool of sorts so once to locate the small hole on the top of the ign switch and also have the lock cyl rotated to the run position, you press the tool into the small hole.
Tool--can be about the size of a medium screw driver--but the end will have a bend, a right angle bend and the bent piece approx. 3/8" in length.
You will be pressing down on a button help there by a weak spring, look on the new lock cylinder.
As you press down or inward pullout on the lock cyl.
It's that easy.
After installing the new lock cylinder, if that is what your are doing, you might not be able to start the car.
Most chevys have a chip built into the lock cyl. with a sort of password--if the car doesn't see the right password it wont start.
Question: if you need further instruction please let me know.
If the Lock cylinder does not turn, then the fix has another & different approach but you can do it.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
If it happened right after they changed the radiator, did they add transmission fluid? If they did, check your owners manual, or call a dealership, to find out EXACTLY what kind of fluid you need. It may be on a sticker under your hood also. It probably needs ATF+3 or ATF+4. I don't give a rats *** what anyone else says, use them, and them ONLY. If the shop put in something that is supposed to be compatible, then you need to drain the fluid, refill it, run it a little, in rev and first, like 10 feet each direction. Drain the fluid AGAIN, and refill. My Stratus and others (probably same tranny as yours) needs ATF+3 or +4, they are REALLY picky about this. Anything else will mess it up. I have not used MOPAR brand, I have used off brands, like from Wally World, and they are fine. They just need to be EXACTLY the right fluid. Change the filter if it hasn't been done lately too.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
i know what you mean i have the exact same problem with my 97 blazer. it takes for ever to get up to speed and in gear,but if i shift from 1st to 4th on my own it runs fine! i dont understand the key thing either but my husband took off the plastic around the sterring coloum and therer is a little button under the iginition and if you press it in key will turn over and come out!!!! its so weird cause sometimes i crank the truck up and it takes off like it has never had a problem,and as soon as i turn it off the key comes out . then the very next time it will happen again!!!!!!!! let me know if you find out th e reason!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Posted on Nov 14, 2009
0753 is shift solenoid A, electrical problem.as for the other codes they should start with a zero not a one. if they started with a 0757 that means shift solenoid B,stuck in on position. 0762 means shift solenoid C,stuck in on position. 0765 means shift solenoid D,malfunction
Posted on Feb 15, 2010
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